Chris V

Speaking from long experience, I mainly use Tamiya’s Liquid Cement (White cap), Extra Thin Cement (Green cap), and Quick Setting Extra Thin Cement (Lime green cap) for various modeling purposes Apart from their consistency, the three types have different properties: The thicker the consistency, the longer the drying time AND the stronger the bond: Extra Thin (Green) is suitable for most purposes. As noted above it’s applied through capillary action: you hold the parts to be joined together and apply a tiny drop of cement to the seam. Howeever when an extra strong bond is required (e.g. bodywork) I apply Liquid Cement (White) and “zap” the seam with a dab of Extra Thin Cement (Green) after mating the surfaces. Quick Setting (Lime green) is extremely useful for tacking parts in place but gives a significantly weaker bond. The great advantage is that it evaporates and sets very quickly. The glue seam can be sanded and painted over within 24 hours without sinking/ghosting under the paint. Apart from the weaker bond it has the additional disadvantage that it’s hotter solvents can turn plastic brittle, making it less than ideal for applying thin styrene strips to curved surfaces. Finally there’s Taniya’s ABS glue (Blue cap): The consistecy is close to the regular Liquid cement (White cap). Apart from ABS it’s suitable for gluing some other “oily” types of plastic, including Cycolac which was used for AMT Promo models in the sixties and seventies. As a general note I strongly recommend sanding away any plating or paint from surfaces to be joined with plastic cement. Even if the cement can dissolve the paint and underlying plastic, the paint residue will result in a weaker bond and a glue seam more prone to cracking.

These days the term “Gasser” has become about as misused and worn out as “Rat Rod”. On the true in-period “Gas”-classes, airfoils and spoilers were a relatively rare occurrance until the late sixties, and not generally associated with the look of the cars. Most were quite crude by today’s standards, but on some of the big-budget racers, they were cleverly incorporated into the design. For instance Ohio George Montgomery’s 1967 Mustang had a Shelby-style “ducktail” wing.

I'm afraid there's not much you can do about the set you have. Enamels and most types of lacquer won't work on vinyl/rubber parts. Enamels won't dry and will remain tacky, and lacquers have a tendency to flake off the soft surface. The best way to seal tire decals is to airbrush them with acrylic dull clear. However even acrylics are differently composed, so it's best to test their compatibility on a scrap piece of decal before applying them to the finished tire. Furthermore the decals need ample time to thoroughly dry and set before applying the clearcoat.

If you want to build a '68 you're better off getting a different kit. This is a super rare custom only kit, so modifying it will hurt both it's value and historical significance. Many collectors would love to have it "as is" or simply restore it using the box stock parts. I have two of rebuilders of the AMT "1968" Impala, and I can't wait to restore them to their full custom glory.

It’s a well-engineered kit ahead of it’s time. It should build up well!

Sure looks like the old MPC 1967 GTO kit.

This is truly great news! In my opinion these kits are well worth the premium price.

I believe Tim Boyd has confirmed that a Ranchero based on the same tooling was planned, but the project was deemed economically unfeasible and thus abandoned. Considering the popularity and numerous versions of the Sedan and Wagon I'm not quite sure I agree with that assessment, particularly with so many parts shared between the three models.

To hold small parts I usually drill a shallow 0.5 mm hole in the part and attach it to a loop of metal wire.

Actually Revell's 1957 Ford Ranchero started out as a 1957 Ford Country Squire Wagon. In 1960 the kit was retooled into a Ranchero, but unfortunately a lot of corners were cut in the process: The doors weren't lengthened to reflect the change from a 4dr to a 2dr. body style, making the roof of the cab too short. The stock Ranchero side moldings were omitted and for some reason the stock front bumper/grille assembly was replaced with a 1959-Style. The original issue of the kit was available either with or without an electric motor. It did not include injection molded windows, but the instructions had a template to cut the windshield from transparent material. Later seventies' issues of the (sort of) stock roof Ranchero did include proper windows. In the mid-eighties the kit was retooled into the cartoonishly proportioned chopped Ranchero in question. Further revisions included the return of the stock front bumper/grille from the Country Squire as well as stock, albeit poorly engraved, side moldings. Unfortunately the rear cab trim and separate pickup bed trim disappeared from the chopped version of the kit. The chopped Ranchero was last reissued some time around 1990. I firmly believe that Revell missed out on a great opportunity when they decided to shelve their plans of making an all-new 1957 Ranchero based on the 1957 Ford Custom 300 Sedan/Del Rio Wagon tooling. Considering how well those kits have sold in numerous variations, it's only fair to assume that the iconic Ranchero model would have generated more than enough additional sales to justify the tooling investment. Jimmy Fintstone currently offers two different resin Ranchero conversions for Revell's 1957 Del Rio kit. However the finish of the castings just doesn't compare to that of the model kits.

These days I would definitely go for the Fujimi kit and get the absolutely beautiful aftermaket detail kit and wire wheels made for it by Hobby Design (while they’re still available at an affordable price). If you crave even more detail you can try to find a set of KA Models’ spun aluminum intake stacks and exhaust tips, and for even more detail you can complete the model with Historic Racing Miniatures’ engine kit and Dunlop Racing tires. I still kick myself for not getting a real wooden steering wheel from Replicas an Miniatures of MD, while they were still available… To address some of the other kits mentioned, the old Gunze Sangyo/Airfix 250 GTO kit is probably the best looking of the bunch, even if most versions are curbside models. The kit was actually offered in three different versions: 1) an all plastic curbside kit. 2) a “High Tech” multi media curbside kit with die cast metal chassis and suspension components, chrome metal transfers for the headlight surrounds, and a photo etch sheet with interior/exterior details and wheel spokes. 3) a full detail “High Tech” version which also included engine. Ironically I recommend using the chassis and suspension from the regular plastic kit, as the clunky die cast metal parts are utterly pointless, particularly because the suspension components are prone to metal fatigue. Gunze Sangyo also offered a “High Tech” multi media curbside kit of the 250 GTO SWB, which IMO looks far better than the ESCI/AMT and Italeri kits of the SWB.

I’m definitely in for a bunch of the remastered Nomads for various projects. Hopefully the model will sell well enough to make a compelling argument for remastering the SMP ‘60 El Camino based on the same tooling.

Paying that kind of money for a more or less mint kit seems a bit excessive when I already have two very nice rebuilders, apart from the damaged windows and glue residue on the wagon's rear quarter trim, that is.

The “High Rollers” were a series of lifted 4x4 kits issued by Monogram in the early 80’s. Apart from the GMC It included some rather unlikely subjects such as their ‘69 Camaro Z/28 and ‘70 Chevelle SS. The tooling for the latter actually still has an offset hole in the floor to mount the 4x4 transfer case. Given the other scale discrepancies in the catalog such as the 1:24 and 1:25 ‘68 Corvettes I wouldn’t put too much into the kit being listed as a 1:25 kit.

If you notice the different product numbers, it’s likely because they’re offering it as a “Plus Kit” (including glue and paint) as well.

Strange... The picture wasn't there when I replied to the original post 🤔

That would probably be the Chevy Blazer:

Since it’s for an older issue of the kit, Revell has an excellent customer service programme that allows you to purchase spare parts. Their (free) replacement parts programme requires more extensive proof of purchase nowadays as some people previously took advantage of the service, essentially using it as a parts bin. I’ve just ordered (bought) some spare decal sheets for their JW/Gulf Ford GT40 Mk. I kit, as their quality is far superior to the decals in older Fujimi issues of the kit.

I realize that this is a very long shot, but would anyone happen to have a useable set of windows for Hubley’s 1960 Ford Country Sedan (Wagon) and/or Fairlane 4dr. Sedan in their parts bins? I recently acquired both models, only to discover that the windows were damaged and warped beyond use. If anyone happens to have the remains of a wagon body with the ribbed rear quarter panels in undamaged condition, I’d be very interested in that as well. Thanks for looking!

Unfortunately, no. It’s a shame, as the Weber DCOE setup looks amazing on the slant-six.

Let me add a new issue to the list: Apparently Ebay is now blocking European users from bidding on and purchasing model kits from stateside sellers, even if the items are explictly listed with Ebay international shipping available. I contacted Ebay’s customer service about the issue and got a completly nosensical reply about a recent policy change restricting the sales of electronic devices.

My only grief with the original and “Early Iron Series” issues is that you have to narrow the lower body and correct the passenger side body stamping (or replace the lower body and main fender assembly with parts from a ZZ Top Eliminator or subsequent reissue).

Hopefully I can help and add a little backgound about these wheels: Unlike “Radir”, “Rader” wasn’t a single manufacturer but an entire range of wheels made by different manufacturers. For instance the front wheels on Monogram’s “Bad Man” ‘55 Chevy was a Rader wheel as well. The “Rader DBR-100” style wheels featured on the Batmobile were manufactured by both American Wheel Corp and by Mickey Thompson (M/T). These wheels have a somewhat rounded spoke design with a single probounced rib running down the center of each spoke) The most commonly available source of these wheels is the AMT “Fireball 500” movie car. These wheels have a medium offset (as the Batmobile) and come with separate, winged M/T spinners. The only downside to these wheels is the slightly exaggerated wheel lip, which scales out closer to a 16” wheel in 1:25. The same basic spoke design was used in several other old and somewhat rare AMT kits, mostly in showrods as deep offset, rear wheels only. These kits include AMT’s ultra-rare “ZZR” and the “Drag-U-La”. I think one of the 1965-66 Mustang annual kits had a medium offeset set of Rader Wheels as well. Furthermore a single and extremely rare issue of AMT’s 1934 Ford Pickup (including a spray can of pearl paint) had a full set of medium offset Rader Wheels. I believe that these were the basis for the nice medium offset Raders, Modelhaus offered in resin for a couple of years. As mentioned by others, a deep offset pair of DBR-100 style Raders were included in Revell’s “Mysterion” Now for some of the other similar designs available: As mentioned by others, Revell’s 1964 Ford Thunderbolt includes a set of shallow Rader-style mags in staggered diameter front/rear. These wheels have a more flat squared-off spoke design, and are actually closer in appearance to the “Strike” wheels currently manufactured by Rocket Racing Wheels. Pegasus Hobbies offers a very similar looking wheels, named “Raiders” for licensing purposes. They’re evenly sized and ever so slightly deper offset than the Thunderbolt wheels. These would be my second choice after the “Fireball 500” wheels for a Batmobile. Finally, the old pre-painted Polar Lights 1964 Pontiac GTO included a set of zero-offset, contemporary “Radir Tri-Ribb” style wheels with a flat spoke design and ribs runbing down both the centre and sides of the wheel. I’m not sure if later Round2-reissues of the kit included these wheels or the interchangeable American Racing wheels from Polar Lights’ 1965 Dodge Coronet. By adding an outer wheel lip from e.g. the restored reissue of Revell’s “Beatnik Bandit”, these wheels can be modified to look more like the original tri-ribbed Rader design. They are however closer to 16” wheels in 1:25 scale.

This conversion along with an Oldsmobile is/was available from Best Model Car Parts

Whether you go with Revell's 1970 AAR 'Cuda or AMT's 1971 Duster as donor car, you should be aware, that there are some visual differences. The 1968-1970 340 High Performance exhaust manifold design is notably different from the later models, and very sought after in the real world because of their excellent flow. It's also been noted that the valve covers in AMT's 1971 Duster are slightly too slim and oblong compared to the real engine. However it's nowhere near as bad as the scale accuracy issues with the 340 in the old Monogram 1:24 '70 Challenger T/A or the '70 AAR 'Cuda derived from that tooling: That engine was deliberately oversized for added visual impact - and thus roughly the size of a Chevy Big Block...