rattle can man

I've never built any Gundam kits. Is there anything useful for auto/ truck models in them?

$179 to diagnose the problem and change the sparkplug on my emergency generator.

It's raining!!!!! It's been a long dry spell. Hope for the garden yet

I'm not sure about Matchbox. But I do have an Aurora Magne-traction Vette with IMSA flares. If I recall, it was yellow with blue and white design and the No. 12.

agreed. I'm tempted to try, but the fragility of the coatings makes me very hesitant.

Looking forward to a good fantasy build. I've got too many projects in my head as well as on the bench. But a Renault 4CV gasser is definitely sometime in the next round of projects.

I miss watching them race at Mildenhall, U.K.

PM Sent.

Pretty much what everyone else has said. And it gives me a few hours of "me time" a week. Like everything I do, it is to maintain dexterity, fitness, and brain health.

I would sand the tread to lose the "new" look. Then follow 64SS350's advice of dry brush or mist coat. If you want to experiment, how about a light coat of gray on a smooth surface and roll the tire through it (think of the tire as a paint roller tr and the surface as the paint tray)? A really light coat, so it only gets on the smooth surface and leaves black between the tread blocks. I haven't tried it, but if it works, it might save some time with the airbrush set-up and cleaning or dry brushing and any additional detailing with a black wash.

The Front end reminds me a bit of a Saab Sonett II.

Now I just like box art to contain views of any optional parts, When I was more invincible (a.k.a. a teen. I'm not getting older, just less indestructible) box art did catch my eye sometimes and influenced my purchases more.

I finally broke down and read this thread. I knew the No. 11 blade trick and applying wash before paint. What I still don't know is how to lay out new panel lines from scratch. Straight is easy enough with tape. But how do you do curves? I saw a few posts about templates and tapes that can layout curves, but most of them aren't very positive. How does one do tight radius curves, such as rounded door, hood, etc. corners? masking tape on a clean sheet of glass, find something with the right curve to trace, then cut the curve and apply the tape to the model? Would using dividers/ drawing compass work for scribing lines parallel to window openings and door bottoms? I would think of the pencil end/ one end as a guide and the sharp point like a scribing tool.

Sorry to hear that. Have you tried all of the usual tricks on it? If you've tried the suggestions below already, my apologies. If you can get past the sticky body, all is not lost. was the body painted? If painted, a bath in something to strip the paint might work (perhaps 90%isopropyl alcohol?). From what you describe, it sounds like someone used a strong solvent with scouring pads/ steel wool to strip paint and the solvent reacted with or softened the plastic. If so, perhaps some time in a dehydrator might evaporate the solvent or cleaner from the plastic. If you search the threads here, there is a method using steam and your freezer to weaken glue joints. I haven't tried it, but the principle would work for non-solvent types of glue such as epoxy or ACC, It works just like freeze thaw cycles crack paving. Steam gets into the joint, you freeze it, the steam turns to ice and expands, breaking the bonds. You might also try applying some liquid model cement to the seams and letting it soften the joints before trying to disassemble it. I've only tried the liquid cement method and had success. If you get past the sticky body, you could try to source some Aoshima wheels. When you say the suspension parts are missing, is this a chassis plate with everything molded in and just different blocks for stock and lowered height or is it detailed? You can always make new blocks if that is the situation. you can lower it by relocating the wheel mounting points on the stock parts if you have them. some stiff wire styrene rod, even a nail (to replace any pins you have to remove) and a drill might work for the front suspension. the rear suspension might require a little ingenuity, but look at it like the 1:1 world. shorten the springs and shocks, use lowering blocks, etc.

Flathead pinto has my weird engine gene kicking in.

not seeing it.

yes to all of these. I'm kind of tired of the same old subject matter. But I know manufacturers have to make money, so they make what sells.

I've got the molded in orange 427 SOHC Camaro funny car parts primed with silver. Frame, engine block, and rear end are assembled. Will be diving into clean-up of mold lines, sink marks, etc. later this evening. Unless I get sidetracked by other projects on my bench.

I might by the boat if it was stand alone kit.

I ordered a copy from an online retailer. I want to check it out before I subscribe.

My apologies on pointing you at the wrong kit.

If the engines are identical whether in a truck or car, the colors would be the same. All Ford engine blocks '59-'66 are black. The color of the valve cover and air cleaners delineate displacements/ engine series and various versions (such as 4V, 6V, 8V, SOHC, etc.), of the engine

I think the biggest factor was building on a budget in your own garage with whatever you could scrounge and limited access to hi-tech information we take for granted. Then came the aftermarket and internet.

using lacquer thinner to clean weatherstrip that had been treated with some kind of dressing would buy a short window of the tape sticking, but it would release within a few hours. Tires are a porous material. That slick, shiny stuff soaks in. You can scrub off what is on the surface, but whatever has been absorbed into the rubber eventually migrates back to the surface.

maybe this will help? It is correct on the '66-'71 ford blue, and it jives with photos and actual vehicles I've seen. Correct Ford Engine Colors (galaxieclub.com)