rattle can man

Sorry to hear that. Have you tried all of the usual tricks on it? If you've tried the suggestions below already, my apologies. If you can get past the sticky body, all is not lost. was the body painted? If painted, a bath in something to strip the paint might work (perhaps 90%isopropyl alcohol?). From what you describe, it sounds like someone used a strong solvent with scouring pads/ steel wool to strip paint and the solvent reacted with or softened the plastic. If so, perhaps some time in a dehydrator might evaporate the solvent or cleaner from the plastic. If you search the threads here, there is a method using steam and your freezer to weaken glue joints. I haven't tried it, but the principle would work for non-solvent types of glue such as epoxy or ACC, It works just like freeze thaw cycles crack paving. Steam gets into the joint, you freeze it, the steam turns to ice and expands, breaking the bonds. You might also try applying some liquid model cement to the seams and letting it soften the joints before trying to disassemble it. I've only tried the liquid cement method and had success. If you get past the sticky body, you could try to source some Aoshima wheels. When you say the suspension parts are missing, is this a chassis plate with everything molded in and just different blocks for stock and lowered height or is it detailed? You can always make new blocks if that is the situation. you can lower it by relocating the wheel mounting points on the stock parts if you have them. some stiff wire styrene rod, even a nail (to replace any pins you have to remove) and a drill might work for the front suspension. the rear suspension might require a little ingenuity, but look at it like the 1:1 world. shorten the springs and shocks, use lowering blocks, etc.

Flathead pinto has my weird engine gene kicking in.

not seeing it.

yes to all of these. I'm kind of tired of the same old subject matter. But I know manufacturers have to make money, so they make what sells.

I've got the molded in orange 427 SOHC Camaro funny car parts primed with silver. Frame, engine block, and rear end are assembled. Will be diving into clean-up of mold lines, sink marks, etc. later this evening. Unless I get sidetracked by other projects on my bench.

I might by the boat if it was stand alone kit.

I ordered a copy from an online retailer. I want to check it out before I subscribe.

My apologies on pointing you at the wrong kit.

If the engines are identical whether in a truck or car, the colors would be the same. All Ford engine blocks '59-'66 are black. The color of the valve cover and air cleaners delineate displacements/ engine series and various versions (such as 4V, 6V, 8V, SOHC, etc.), of the engine

I think the biggest factor was building on a budget in your own garage with whatever you could scrounge and limited access to hi-tech information we take for granted. Then came the aftermarket and internet.

using lacquer thinner to clean weatherstrip that had been treated with some kind of dressing would buy a short window of the tape sticking, but it would release within a few hours. Tires are a porous material. That slick, shiny stuff soaks in. You can scrub off what is on the surface, but whatever has been absorbed into the rubber eventually migrates back to the surface.

maybe this will help? It is correct on the '66-'71 ford blue, and it jives with photos and actual vehicles I've seen. Correct Ford Engine Colors (galaxieclub.com)

super nice!!

make sure you use paint made for rubber. Surface prep is important. clean, dry and serviceable before paint. Tire dressing/ shine, grease, etc. will affect the adhesion of paint. It soaks in and scrubbing might not remove it.

Have a look around Hobby Link Japan (unless you have a particular prototype in mind). Lots of Japanese and European small and sports cars to choose from.

or a Trabant?

how about a Renault (Dauphine, R4, etc) or Citroen 2CV?

i'm not familiar with the kit, but Mark is correct. I used the floor of a Revell funny car to keep its frame square while the frame parts dried. You could also use Legos (or the cheap ones from a dollar store) to build a box/square corner/ set blocks inside the frame. Just use the blocks that are at least 2 pegs (e.g. 2x4) wide to ensure they are square if you need to build a box/ right angle. If you go this route, you might want to consider whether you use a fast, medium, or slow setting glue. cAlso check to see if your glue of choice will glue the blocks together. The ones I bought for use don't react with model glue, but do glue together with ACC/ Super glue. MicroMark does have magnetic jigs, right angle clamps etc.

I have to agree. Rustoleum spray cans are not good for much in model building. I have a few cans, but when they are used up or no longer spray I'm dome with them.

either trimming the pins or drilling out the holes should work.

I posted in the wrong subject. someone was looking for the wheels somewhere.

It is on Scalemates.

Do you have them the wrong way around? they might only fit one way. Have you painted them? the thickness of the paint might be why they don't fit. Can you drill them a little deeper?

Any chance you have a good picture? I don't have that kit, but I have a large stash of wheels. they might have been used in another kit.

my mistake. the International is a '78 Scout Terra.