rattle can man

super nice!!

make sure you use paint made for rubber. Surface prep is important. clean, dry and serviceable before paint. Tire dressing/ shine, grease, etc. will affect the adhesion of paint. It soaks in and scrubbing might not remove it.

Have a look around Hobby Link Japan (unless you have a particular prototype in mind). Lots of Japanese and European small and sports cars to choose from.

or a Trabant?

how about a Renault (Dauphine, R4, etc) or Citroen 2CV?

i'm not familiar with the kit, but Mark is correct. I used the floor of a Revell funny car to keep its frame square while the frame parts dried. You could also use Legos (or the cheap ones from a dollar store) to build a box/square corner/ set blocks inside the frame. Just use the blocks that are at least 2 pegs (e.g. 2x4) wide to ensure they are square if you need to build a box/ right angle. If you go this route, you might want to consider whether you use a fast, medium, or slow setting glue. cAlso check to see if your glue of choice will glue the blocks together. The ones I bought for use don't react with model glue, but do glue together with ACC/ Super glue. MicroMark does have magnetic jigs, right angle clamps etc.

I have to agree. Rustoleum spray cans are not good for much in model building. I have a few cans, but when they are used up or no longer spray I'm dome with them.

either trimming the pins or drilling out the holes should work.

I posted in the wrong subject. someone was looking for the wheels somewhere.

It is on Scalemates.

Do you have them the wrong way around? they might only fit one way. Have you painted them? the thickness of the paint might be why they don't fit. Can you drill them a little deeper?

Any chance you have a good picture? I don't have that kit, but I have a large stash of wheels. they might have been used in another kit.

my mistake. the International is a '78 Scout Terra.

I picked up the Aug Vintage Trucks magazine recently quite a few interesting vehicles: a '75 C-10, Sanford and Son F-1, '79 dodge Macho Power Wagon, 75' International pick up, and a '36 Chevy Coupe-pickup (think U.S. ute/ very early El Camino). Not much hands on, but some good reference photos.

when painting an old kit "molded in color, I know you need a good primer or sealer to prevent color bleeding through. I have also seen it recommended to use silver paint. my question is what about other "metal" finishes such as copper or gold?

diagonal tires? do you mean the suspension was linked diagonally?

The price puts it way beyond my reach. otherwise, I might be interested in the subject matter.

what about the exploding/ burning Chevy pickups with the saddle tanks outside of the frame? NBC may have rigged their tests, but the story came from somewhere.

I grew up in the '7os and don't remember them I-d check whith companies like Coker that make tires for restorations.

i wasn't sure if the tape sticky side of the tape would stick to the putty or not.

When using silly putty to mask something, DO you tape large areas and then use the silly putty to finish th between the tape and where the edge of the mask wing will be? ie. when masking a chassis/frame unit, mask the large areas of the floor with tape and then use silly putty over the tape edge and up to the frame?

I would love a new fox body Mercury Capri

have you tried your local library? some have printers you can use. they even can help you.

If those bright headlights are properly aimed, they are not a problem. It is when people change the settings, raise or lower the vehicle without correcting the aim, or repairs are not done properly that they become a problem

I found my subject. now to get to work. hopefully an easy, post-surgery build.