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DJMar

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Everything posted by DJMar

  1. If the original Starsky & Hutch car was nicknamed the "Striped Tomato", is this version the "Striped Cherry Tomato"? This is an awesome little '70s-style street burner. It's great to see the V8 up front and those fat meats in the rear. ?
  2. Great color and classic Cragars! She looks ready to rumble. Is the hood an aftermarket item, or did you modify the kit piece? I do like Iceman's tires, those BFGs look right at home.
  3. Tamiya's TS sprays are synthetic lacquers. This same ad copy has been on their website for years. Personally, I've never had an issue with TS-13 gloss clear used over any Tamiya TS paints, but that just could be my luck.
  4. This is such a cool build! Awesome fab and body work, and great details! I love the interior. Personally, I vote for the purple if you're building an replica of the Leisure sketch. Since it's a mid-60s custom, maybe some pearl or flake?
  5. Totally digging this, the color choices look great! Great build of a really nice kit (that Revell should reissue).
  6. Super cool build of a really neat TV car! For some reason I have Kojak's license plate from the series in my files...
  7. Mine wasn't. ?
  8. I feel this. I've got either 1) '90s style "body color painted everything" builds or 2) rat rods on the bench right now, because the thought of foiling anything makes we want take up knitting.
  9. Such a cool project! IIRC, there are 3 sets of wheels in this one, including steelies with small hubcaps.
  10. I'm always down for '80s-'90s JDM cars. Good call on the wheels, she looks sweet! ?
  11. Agreed. This is the method I use the most. It's pretty straightforward and everything glues together with plastic cement. There is also a wide variety of styrene tubing to choose from, so finding the diameter you need is easy. Another option is florists wire. I've used this a few times to make rocker guards & grille guards on 4x4 models, the 8 gauge is 3mm. It's a plastic coated wire that takes tight bends well and holds its shape. I attach it with super glue.
  12. Wow, that looks sharper than a two headed tack! ??
  13. Small decals like those can be soaked off and reused if they're relatively freshly applied and aren't cleared over. If you have a coat or two of clear on them, I would think that liquid mask would work to shield them from the stripping procedure, as long as you weren't going to soak the hood in a vat of Purple Power. I would use oven cleaner, sprayed out and then brushed on, to get rid of most of the paint. Masking off the front face of the hood looks like another option. You might have a small paint ridge afterwards, but there's a panel line there on the real trucks anyway. That way, you can salvage your chrome trim as well. STS Decals also offers this set of red & amber trailer light decals. They are a little big bigger than the kit decals but could probably work if trimmed down a bit: https://stsdecals.com/products/headlight-for-bronco-water-slide-decals?_pos=2&_sid=4c5fae244&_ss=r
  14. Not necessarily a mistake, but you can't use alcohol to strip the Future without ruining the Tamiya clear underneath. Alcohol is a solvent for both. If you had used, for example, an enamel clear under the Future, you might have been able to strip the Future with alcohol without disturbing the clearcoat. That's what I was getting at, asking if there was a way to strip off the Future without ruining your clear layer. As for the hood, I don't believe any additional coats - paint or clear - are going to make things better. Personally, I would strip the hood and start over. I know the marker lights are already in place, but if can't remove them, you can probably salvage them with some judicious masking. I would use tape and multiple coats of a liquid masking agent and then use oven cleaner to strip the paint. You could probably also mask off the entire face of the hood (the piece that contains the marker lights) and strip the top and sides, and then repaint. This is one of those "sometimes you're the bug, sometimes you're the windshield" moments in modeling. I feel for you, I have a Willys that I've been working on for a while now that I've had to strip twice. It's frustrating.
  15. I was going to suggest using alcohol to remove the Future, but that wouldn't work with the Tamiya underneath.
  16. What clear did you use the first time? Is the Future just a top coat over a different clear? What clear were you planning to use over the Future? Also, I get burned out on builds a lot, which is one reason why it takes a mighty big push for me to get a kit done. I work on 4 or 5 things at a time, a little here, a little there.
  17. The Datsun/Nissan 720s used 6 lug wheels, in both 2wd and 4wd versions. The model shown here (black truck with orange/red decals) has 5 lugs and is not correct.
  18. PM sent!
  19. IIRC, the '57 Stepside was last issued around 2002 or 2003. The '55 Stepside was initially reissued in '97, and again around 2006 (Parts Pack version with the glue & paint). Both have been OOP for a good while now. The '55 Cameo was last released around 2018 with new Coca-Cola decals and vending machine. If you had a spare stepside bed in the stash, you were in luck. Personally I prefer the '57 kit as well, but if either of these kits was reissued, I'm sure the 3D printing aftermarket would offer the hood & grille to build the other version.
  20. Kit 85-4248, California Wheels, 2'n1 version, c.2009. I got this kit in a bulk eBay purchase about 4-5 years ago. Box is open but sealed inside, parts are still in the bags. Decals are complete and the box is in good condition. We haven't seen this in production in a while, so I'd prefer to trade for something that 1) I don't already have and 2) is also OOP. Wish list below, from most wanted on down. Revell 1962 Corvette Roadster (2'n1 version or Special Edition) ?????? Revell '48 Ford Custom Coupe 3 'n 1 ?????? Mongram 1:24 Pro Street series kits "White Lightning" Firebird, or "Mean & Nasty" Camaro (yes, the mid-80s ones with the gold plated parts and tinted windows) ???? Revell '66 Suburban ???? Revellogram '59 Cadillac (prefer hardtop but the convertible is good too.) ?? Revell RM Kustom 1:12 chopper series - Bone Daddy, Fireball or Aces Wild kits ?? I'm open to other trades, so if you've got some random JDM stuff or Lowrider Magazine plastic kits, let me know.
  21. Yes please! Also, I'm pretty stoked to see the 720. I owned one back in the late 90s as a work truck and loved it. Any idea if and/or when these will be coming our way?
  22. Nicely done! The rust on the grille is especially convincing.
  23. You can never go wrong with a purple B-body! She's a looker.
  24. This is an excellent point. Even if the OP goes with an enamel clear coat, I don't think 4 days is enough cure time for a multi-coat enamel finish to be truly dry. Personally, I will leave an enamel color (not primer) paint job alone for 10-14 days (yes, even after using a dehydrator) before I even think about color sanding, polishing, or clear coating. That's probably a bit of overkill, but I've had a few harsh lessons working on dry-but-uncured enamel paint jobs in the past.
  25. Is this the Revell '69 Boss 302 or the '70 Boss 302/Mach 1? I realize the kits are very similar chassis-wise, but I don't have the '69 version in my stash. I've built the Revellogram '70 a number of times. When I look at the 1970 exhaust pipes from the Special Edition of the kit, they look the same, with the glaring exception of the exhaust flanges molded to the ends of the pipes. I'm not sure if the '69 pipes are that different, but again, I don't have the kit on hand to check. The '70 exhaust also has some very tall locating tabs molded in, which are harder to see in your pics. One thing that also stands out to me is that the driver side pipe on the '70 ends roughly even with the steering ram, whereas in your pic it is clearly sitting well above it. Again, unsure if this a difference between the '69 and '70 kits, or if something else is up. Kit differences aside, if your issue is a simple misalignment problem - a warp in the pipes, for example - you might be able to gently heat the right exhaust pipe and slowly bend to fit.
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