SpeedAndViolence

I was wondering the same. That conversion was announced less than a week ago? You are doing an outstanding job Marcel!!

Or remembering back that one time during summer after 5th grade, when you were wearing shorts, and how it felt like you literally just sat on the surface of the sun.

Very cool. I'm intrigued by your chassis selection with this.

I actually didn't think that the offset was *that* deep 😁 The original issue was, that the using the kit parts 'as is', put the outside of the tire up against the inside of the fenderwell. So I then opted to carefully pull in and create new spindle pivot point locations. When I went to replace the original kit supplied A-arms, that I very carefully shaved from the top of the frame rails, they looked woefully inadequate. I want my A-arms like I like my grilled burgers...*much beefier*. But by doing so, I've ran into this conundrum. I went ahead and ordered the Iceman Collections 'Front End Tube Chassis': I'm still open to any ideas to be offered however... Thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts with me.

I did consider engine/header clearance, but only briefly. So thanks for the reminder. I have not mocked up the powerplant yet, because I'm on the fence between a Hellephant, or a Magnuson supercharged 426. Regardless of which engine, it will have header's. Thank you very much for taking the time to comment. Based on the responses, it appears my options are limited.

Very cool!

I'll look around and see if I can find that one. I myself don't have a 3D printer. I appreciate the help. If someone here has the above mentioned piece available to purchase, please feel free to PM me. Thanks so much.

Currently building the Rev-Mono 69 Dodge Coronet Super Bee. Two of the several prerequisites for this build that I wanted were a: Lowered stance Poseable front wheels The endeavor of achieving these goals, and have them be realistic however, is starting to get a little on the challenging side. Now that I finally found a set of upper A-arms that I'm happy with, my issue now, is having front frame rails wide enough to accommodate them. See attached photos. I had to strengthen the frame rails anyway, but to use these A-arms and have proper overall wheel alignment, I will have to widen the frame rails towards the inside. So here's my question: What would be a realistic way to correct this situation? I have considered shorting the length of the A-arms, but I did want to have coilovers mounted to the frame rails, and going through the upper A-arms, to the lower, and shortening the -arms may unintentionally eliminate that option. Is widening the frame rails an option used in real world situations? (Ive never heard or seen it used.) If I were to widen the rails, would I widen them all the way back to the forward cross member, or can/ would you widen the rails in the A-arm location, then smooth the transition as it moves toward the rear, eventually terminating to a section of original thickness? I sincerely appreciate you taking the time to post a comment. I look forward to reading your thoughts and ideas.

I had the opportunity to hang out at the hobby shop for a few hours on Saturday, and noticed he was carrying a new line of water-based acrylic paint called 'Turbo Dork'. I have no idea how well they work, or their durability. What drew my attention to them was the massive amounts of unique metallic colors. I actually thought it was a 'House Of Kolor' paint rack at first glance. https://turbodork.com/ I hope someone here can chime in on their experiences with this line of paint. I was very intrigued.

Not to detract from your post, because I'm all about the 'it's the cheap way- but looks the part' route, but just out of curiosity, how many of you if you were judging a contest, would base their vote on whether the fittings are actually 'faceted'.. or not? Show of hands?

I actually purchased the items in the top photo, and they were much too wide. They were actually wider than the kit parts. I need something with a much narrower wheel track. If it means anything, even the steering arm from the Revell 68/69 Charger, will have to be modified, due too excessive toe-in.

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Hello all- I am currently working on the Revell-Mono 69 Dodge Coronet Super Bee. One of my goals for this build was to give it some nice rake, and wider tires all around. The width of the kits front K-member to the spindle locations, would not allow me to use another tire choice without modification. The outside of the tires were all the way up against the inside fenderwell, and would not allow for any steering movement at all. I have since narrowed the front tire track, and I'm attempting to rebuild the front suspension, but I have ran into the issue of not having adequate A-arms. For a size reference, the A-arms in the photo belong to a 58 Edsel Pacer kit. The straight pins in the photos are located in what will be the lower spindle pivot point. My issue is having decent looking A-arms with such a narrow wheel track. Is there a source for tubular 'performance' style upper and lower A-arms out there that does not require raiding another perfectly good kit? With prices these days, I can't afford to render another kit useless for 4 parts. I don't mind attempting to scratchbuild, but I would def need a good tutorial. Thanks for your input.

Fresh from the inbox as of 0548hrs CST: Spotmodel is back to shipping via UPS.

Working at a major commercial airport that often has transient military aviation traffic, I fail to understand the mentality of renting/purchasing a dwelling within 3 statute miles of an airport, that has been in operation since 1911 (respectively) and then complaining about jet noise. Bunch of Freedom Haters

Very nice!

That looks really good! I would be quite proud!

Gorgeous build Sir!

Awesome work man! Very cool!

Good stuff TC! Thanks for the heads up!

Thank you for sharing your build! Really nice work! I really want to build one of these kits, as the Cobra Daytona is my 'all time' personal favorite. Since the the historical 1:1 cars are a couple thousand bucks outside my budget, the Factory Five Type 65 is the go-to on my 'bucket list'. 😎 https://www.factoryfive.com/type-65-coupe/ Until that glorious day that I take delivery though, and unless Scale Motorsports (C'mon Matt! You know you wanna!) re-releases their kit, I'll be building one of these Gunze kits to satisfy that goal. Are there any other build notes you care to share?

@Monty - There's also the Gofer Racing sheet: https://www.modelroundup.com/product-p/gr-11065.htm

I would suggest starting with Tamiya tape to get a rough pattern of the inside, then grab a cheap tinfoil cake pan. I have never tried it myself, but I do agree with @espo, even the thinnest sheet plastic available currently, will not be flexible enough.

Done

That's fantastic. Thank you. And just to be clear, I assumed you lived here in the US at the time I posted that. I now stand corrected. The old saying about making assumptions, once again proves true in my case. Cheers!