Bernard Kron

Gorgeous build, and great style, too. Yeah, the Divcos and the tires are from Modelhaus. They made two sets, one with big 'n' littles with pie crust detail and one with the same tires all around, simple ribbed tires, like tose often seen at the dry lakes. I bought one set of each and used them both, I still have the ribbed tires which I'm saving for a dry lakes build. Most Monogram 1/24th tires, like the ones from the '37 Ford Delivery Van, fit perfectly. Like everyone else regarding things Modelhaus I wish I'd bought more. Chris, what are you're Divcos made to fit, tire wise? They look terrific. Your line of parts it's rapidly becoming formidable. You are on my wish list for 2018....

I'm another happy client. Fast order fill, great communication and support. I ordered his beautiful 50's era Indy Halibrands which I used in a somewhat non-traditional way. They come with tiny Firestone decals, include even tinier tire-size markings, which proved tricky for me to install. He sent me a second set for my second try. It turned out they needed a couple of coats of acrylic clear and then they were tough as nails and set perfectly with decal solvent:

For those who might enjoy it, .follow this link for a current w.i.p. that I have every confidence will result in a very fine rendition of the Yellow Jacket, capturing all the character of the original period, something Monogram did better than anyone back then.: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/127408-monogram-yellow-jacket/

So the bottom line is that the recent Showboat Round2 re-issue is virtually the entire original Trophy Series kit with the exception of the Carson top which can be gotten through Replicas & Miniatures. And you get those nice tires... Now that's something worth noting!

It may have fought you all the way, but the bottom line is it looks 100% the part it was designed to play - a true race car. All the nice details like the p/e mesh and solid, bolted-to-the-ground stance, add one to one convincing competition machine. Nicely done.

Thanx Wes! I seem to be taking a rather scattershot approach to this build. I think it’s partially because it’s a revival of a very old project and it’s taken some time to get focused again on where it’s going. Also, since I needed to prove to myself that I could actually execute a smooth, even black paint job, I’ve now got a main body assembly that needs extremely careful handling so I ‘m easily tempted into sub-assemblies that don’t require test fitting the body. As a result I’ve got a lot of bits and pieces completed but haven’t quite reached the point of final assembly. One thing that became clear to me was that with as formal and finished-out a car as the polished black paint created the other details of the car would have to be up to something approaching that level. The motor in particular, didn’t really seem right. Then I happened on an image of Cobra Hi-Po Tri-Carb motor and thought that that was more in keeping with the build, rather than the somewhat rough adaptation of the kit parts I had already done. Some web research turned up a very nice replica of the carburetion, air cleaner and intake courtesy of B-N-L Resins ( http://bnlresins.ipage.com/shoppingopencart/ ), and then I remembered that a friend had given me a very nicely detailed build-up of the Cobra motor that comes in the Buttera chassis Monogram ’29 Ford Delivery Van and ’34 Ford Coupe kits. It was part of care package of half-finished bits he gave me when I was first re-entering car modeling. In particular he had done a sterling job of finishing out the valve covers in matte back over foiled fins and lettering. Carefully prying them off I found they were a perfect fit for the Revell kit Ford small block. So I’ve done a whole new engine assembly with a far more finished and formal look. The front and rear suspension are finalized with the rear assembly installed and only the radius rods and steering left to add in the front. The wheels and tires are completed so I was able to check out the stance. The car sits very low with only the barest hint of a rubber rake, very much in the manner of some of the SoCal resto-rods of the late 60’s. I also was able to set up the headlight assembly, consisting of the larger stock headlamps for the full-fendered variant of the Revell Tudor kit, but mounted low off the front of the shock mounts. A “V8” headlight brace from an AMT Deuce kit connects the two headlights. Cutting down the windshield frame and cutting new glass is the next major project, and then it should be time for final assembly. If I can keep my eye on the ball and avoid messing things up I’m probably 10 days to 2 weeks from completion. Below are some summary pics of where things are currently. The air cleaner and wheels are only loosely attached so they may not be lined up properly as yet, but this should give you a pretty clear sense of the overall stance and style of the car. Thanx for lookin’, B.

OK, I'll play...

That is one incredible photograph, first of all because it's in color, second because it's tack sharp. The result is that it functions like a time machine, giving us an intimate glimpse into the textures, colors and construction details of the era. I also love how everyone in the photo is craning there necks to see the strip action, LOL!

The mod to the stance and the swap out of the rolling stock really pay off, as does the fine detail work with all the plumbing and wiring. Impressive stuff and the result is sort of an idealized version of what AMT, and no doubt the original builder, had in mind. It really adds a lot to the basic kit build, as subtle as these changes might seem.

Add me to the list, even though the main body is generally available from the aftermarket, the lack of decent interiors, windshields, etc. has made using one largely the domain of the dreaded "Advanced Modeler. Interestingly a stock '27 Turtledeck would be, IMHO, rather obscure and a poor seller, and thus the stock parts tooling would be somewhat of a waste, if I'm right.* So, indeed, the kit is a golden opportunity for Revell to, at last, "get it right" hot-rod-wise. I mean, how many times must we gripe about no-longer-in-style suspension bits, ugly shallow steelies, wide front tires, wretched sky-high stances, and/or over-stylized niche models with useless interiors, hoods, etc? This is an open car so I won't discuss unfortunate chops... In any case there are plenty of resources to refer to to nail the current, Post-90's New-Traditional style. Almost everyone on this thread has discussed it. And Revell has yet to do it right. In my opinion, If for once they nailed it the kit would be legendary. But, equally, I remain dubious that they would, not because they can't, but simply because they haven't up to now. When it comes to hot rods the aftermarket is a thriving world of folks correcting Revell's mistakes... *The thought occurs to me, however, that if tooling up a stock representation enforced the discipline of getting the proportions and details of the basis 1:1 correctly represented then I'm all for it!

Looks so nicely put together, a really "tight" build, which is an effect not often seen on show rod style models. I think it's at least partly due to the tone of the AllClad refinisihing, which along with the crisp and sanitary attention to detail, completely transforms the model. It gives it an unexpected realism, if one can say something like that about one of AMT's "Wilder" designs... Big Thumbz Upz!

It's four years on and the Slingster kit should have been a classic by now, IMHO, but I fear after the initial flurry it's faded from the scene. This is partially because dragster models are just not that popular. For myself, I build at least one digger per year, sometimes two, all in the Old School FED mode. So the Slingster was potentially an important kit to me. I'm one of those builders who knows a few things about this era of drag cars and build "impressionistic" models, rather than replicas of actual cars, but try to stay as true-to-type as I can where my knowledge will allow it. I built one Slingster, and it was as I had hoped, an odd combination of under-detailed and misrepresented parts but with lots a finely detailed and well-modeled aspects that would provide a strong basis for an accurate depiction of an early ('59-'61) era digger, just before the dramatic California-style ultra-lights swept everything in their path. So, despite my gripes, I really enjoyed building it - the kit responded very well to my kit-bashing approach. My thinking is that the kit faded precisely because it can be so rewarding straight out of the box. It's typical, in my view, a Revell's philosophy in designing its kits - Revell kits tend to be fairly narrow in scope and force you to build their vision of the subject. Despite the fact that the Slingster kit was supposedly designed specifically to allow a wide variety of results, competition coupe or digger, blown or injected, Hemi or SBC, it was so narrow in its focus on a brief era in drag racing that it's appeal would be primarily to those of us who are interested in such things. And virtually any competent modeler will get an excellent result from this well engineered and conceived kit. But once you built one the likelihood of ever building anything significantly different from it was really quite small. The frame is too finely made and fragile to survive much modification, and there are enough badly conceived or specialized parts that it's function as a parts kit is somewhat restricted. So, at least in my case, I never bought any additional copies, despite the fact that the resulting build is still one of my favorites on my shelf. But if you haven't built it, and are intrigued by this era of dragsters, I highly recommend it, either OOB or subject to some creative kit-bashing. It is an excellent kit from either perspective. Oddly, I never posted to this thread once I had built the kit. Virtually all my comments were made prior to actually buying one. Any thoughts I had were shared on my Drag Racing Models thread. So here are some pics of what I did. As I said, it was mofdfied to address what I viewed as some of the kit's weaknesses, but it still looks essentially like an OOB build, which I believe is the nature of this kit. Also below is the links to my thread for anyone who might have any further interest. W.I.P. and Completed Result: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/86790-my-slingster-1960-vintage-dragster-completed-with-final-pics/#comment-1173626:

All these thinner, smaller and more difficult to handle parts can be a real trial to install, but they are well worth it for the enormous step up in realism they provide. Build on!

Thanks guys! Slow but steady progress is being made. Given the highly degree of finish I’m aiming for I’m trying my best to be careful and meticulous, to whatever degree I can muster… I’ve gotten most of chassis work completed including the front and rear suspension. The front suspension features my favorite dropped front axle in scale, from the Revell ’40 Ford Street Rod Coupe. I believe it can also be found in other Revell ’40 and ’48 Ford hot rod variants. I like it because it’s a finely constructed I-Beam, has a very deep 4” drop, and comes separate from the front spring. I used the front spring from the Revell Deuce kits, but shaved down to a mono-spring configuration for maximum degree of front end lowering. The rear suspension will be largely stock from the kit since the chassis I’m using is from the original build started in 2011 . Doing otherwise would have meant starting an entirely new chassis, which is not my plan this time around. Total focus on the final fit and finish is what this project’s about. However, I had run out of rear end covers and was trying to avoid raping one from an intact Revell Deuce kit. Much to my delight I found that a hub cap from a Monogram ’37 Ford Sedan Delivery kit is a perfect fit – not only do I get the shiny chrome but it has a V8 logo engraved in it. What luck! Also, if you look at the front suspension photo you’ll notice that the chassis horns have been reworked. After the usual filling and smoothing of the outer surfaces to eliminate the indentations for the bumper brackets I also added .020 styrene strips to simulate the stock unfilled U-section chassis rails. It’s not very clear due to the black paint but I inserted the chrome cross bar to highlight it in the picture. The wheels got a little more attention, now that the suspension is completed. I had a set of resin Buick finned brake drums of now unknown origin. I smooth the front details to fit inside the wheels and drilled the centers out to accept the axle stubs. Then I added some resin ’40 Ford backing plates. The finned parts are finished in Krylon Chrome to simulate polished aluminum. Another piece of detailing is being lavished on the hood side panels. This is a detail I saw done several years ago on one of Lyle Willit’s exquisite Deuces – real opened up louvers. Lyle did it by grinding out the inside of the hood sides to thin them and then cutting open the remaining thin plastic between the louvers. When he did it I was inspired to try my hand at it but found that it was very critical how much you thinned the plastic since the ultra-thin louver bits tended to warp. So this time I decided to leave the hood thickness untouched and just cut into the surface from the front with the back of a #11 blade. It works quite well, .but I’m not sure, at least with a black car, whether it’s worth the effort. It’s not hard to do, but to say that it’s tedious and boring would be a gross understatement. I don’t seem to be able to do more that 4-5 louvers at a sitting before I need to move on to something else. So far I have one side done and the other not quite half done. I’m hoping they’ll be enough shine and sparkle on the motor so that something shows through them on the final build… Another piece of detailing was the grill, done with black bars and a chrome rim. Normally this would involve some tricky foil work but with the introduction of the Molotow Chrome paint pen it was radically simplified. Just strip, paint it black and, suing the 1mm Molotow tip, draw in the chrome edge. Thanks Molotow! And lastly I’ve got the interior pretty much completed. Most of it is from the kit with some material added to the rear of the side panels where the rear seat would have been. There’s no room for the rear seat because of the kick-up from the z’d frame. Instead I made a simple floor panel from styrene grooved sheet (Plastruct corrugated roof material) and styrene semi-circular rod for the skid rails. It’s finished in gloss black with foiled rails. The tank is the kit gas tank cut out, glued together and finished in Metalizer Aluminum plate. The seats are some really nice, simple, and authentic old school race car buckets from Big Donkey Resins. The dash and steering wheel are stock kit items. That’s it for now. The motor needs plumbing and wiring before it gets installed. The suspension locating arms needed to be decided on and then on to ,final assembly. The trick will be not to mess up the nice, shiny body… Thanx for lookin’, B.

It turned out really well. No wonder you're pleased, despite the lumps and bumps along the way. The stance, or course, is what, over time, will make this model stand out. It should be a reference for anyone trying to remedy the dreadful "sit" of the Revell kit original. Naturally, we all can't help but be impressed by the up-top and the Y-block, both powerful style elements that are sure to please. But to me the hood and side panels, and their excellent fit, are worthy of special notice - it's no simple matter when adapting a deuce hood to an A-V8. I'll need to go back to the w.i.p. to see how you cut the hood in particular to get the width to match correctly at the cowl. Also the louver job on the hood is definitely non-trivial (and a cause once more to ask why this sort of piece isn't available in the aftermarket...) and adds tremendously to the total look. And finally, the weathering which, as already noted, is so true to the Rolling Bones style, looked a bit raw in the w.i.p. photos but has now settled in and is all tied in nicely to the total appearance and works a treat! Bravo!

Long-standing TRaK member, super0fine modeler, and all around great guy Roger Hayes (Plowboy) responded to my wuestion which I also posted over on TRaK and recommended the Tamiya Polishing Compound system with this excellent description: The Tamiya system Roger recommended intrigued me, since I needed to get some final polishing compound in any case, so I looked it up on eBay. At least on eBay, none of the three grades (Coarse, Fine Finish) are available from a North American supplier, but you can get it from reputable Hong Kong hobby suppliers for less than $16.00 including shipping (see www.ebay.com/itm/222040986717 ), so I went ahead and ordered some. Tamiya stuff, while often pricey, seems to be reliably effective and top drawer virtually without exception, I received the Tamiya polishing system today (it took 1 week too get here from the time I ordered it) and I have already used it on my project. It's exactly as Roger described it. I had put down three coats of Duplicolor Acrylic Lacquer clear ((my usual practice) with no final wet sanding. It had cured for about 10 days in all. I skipped any further wet sanding and went directly to the Tamiya system because there was virtually no visible orange peel. The Coarse knocked down any waviness, the Fine established a basic glassy smoothness, and the Finish gave it the final gleam I was after with, as I said, no perceivable haze. Thanks Roger! Great stuff! Highly recommended.

Nifty! Your definitely into a door-slammer race car mode! There was some real heavy hauling on your part to go from a curbside promo to this full detail build, but worth it to capture a car from this period when they really were still "stockers".

Thanks to all for a thorough and inspiring discussion. I am struck by how many of the important points being made are ones that I "already knew" - so many of these points are ones I've experienced in the course of developing a final finish. In the final analysis, I must agree with what Steve said about the scale realism of a polish surface as contrasted to the spectacular gleam of a perfectly applied and unmolested clear coat. Whenever I've admired the finish on a model it's been either for its especially appropriate realism in terms of the subject matter and style of the car, or, a a particularly impactful "mile deep" glowingly rich and shiny show paint job. If the builder is around I will usually ask if they polished the final coats. In virtually every instance the show paint builders have proudly said that they had not, so Cato's point that, in his experience, one path to the "surrealistic" impact of of a perfect shine is to do a perfect application of a virgin clear coat. But as I said, my prejudices lean toward the realism side of the discussion. Paradoxically, realism in modeling is an illusion, the sum of many subtle interplays of color, shadow and texture. A literal representation of the 1:1 rendered in miniature can often look busy, over-detailed and,yes, "toy-like". But it's a style of modeling in its own right, and very impressive when done at the highest level. And sometimes magic happens, and the high-detail model transcends its intensity of detail and sublime realism occurs. At the other extreme sometimes the sublime occurs when the most simple and minimalist of renderings results in a perfectly integrated expression of the soul of the subject. Think, for example, of a curbside model where choice of rolling stock, color, finish and the few details the modeler has allowed himself come together in the most efficient manner possible, utterly devoid of any flaws that would distract the eye. In fine art painting it would be like comparing Impressionism to Photo-Realism; both of them are in fact inaccurate renditions of the infinite complexity of the Real World, but the strategy to achieve a successful expression of what the artist wishes to put across could not be more different. So I was reminded that only if I contributed the necessary "elbow grease" at every stage of applying the finish would I get the desired result. No final finish will ever be better than the substrate you start with, so impeccable execution of the surface preparation will carry you a long way in the process. But each layer of the finish is a new beginning, in effect a new substrate. My friend Raul Perez takes this reality to its ultimate extreme in doing his finishes. Raul allows each step of the finish, from primer forward, to cure thoroughly before wet sanding. He treats his initial color coats as, effectively, a filler for any imperfections, contending that color coats have a hardness and uniformity that is especially stable and lends itself to protecting against the possibility of "ghosting" of prior bodywork repairs and modifications, and ensures a depth and smoothness of subsequent layers. He "color sands" every coat, and only after an extended cure time, often as much as 10 days to 2 weeks between layers or more. This may seem extreme but he's not a particularly prolific or rapid builder so the approach suits him, and the results undeniable. I have adopted some of Raul's approach in my better paint jobs, but the discipline and "elbow grease" it requires is a challenge, to put it lightly. As Bill points out, if you still have haze chances are you haven't polished enough. Similarly, all that polishing will never achieve the necessary depth of appearance if your substrate competes with the surface smoothness and traps the reflections on to the outer layers. So if I haven't kept my eye on the ball I can never recover from prior half-measures and "good-enoughs". The depth and uniformity starts very early in the game. The opposite is true as well, with enough application to renewing the surface as you polish even the final layers of clear can work miracles. But, in agreement with you all, this is only if you have the patience to keep polisihing until the finish comes back to you. If you tire early of the work involved it won't come to you on its own. Thanks to you all for the discussion. I have my marching orders. The paint is curing and hardening and I will most likely choose to polish rather than roll the dice on a virgin clear coat. But both approaches have they're points.

About 6 years ago, a couple of years into rediscovering the model car hobby, I picked up a copy of the then newly introduced Revell ’32 Ford Tudor Sedan kit, as much for the flathead as for the body style. As a died in the wool hot rod modeler I immediately set to chopping the top with an idea to building a “chopped & dropped” highboy with a z’d frame and a lowered stance (the latter being something that IMHO all Revell Deuces desperately need). Unfortunately I made a total mess of the chop, eventually losing bits of the A-pillars, and the project was shelved. As the years passed by the kit was gradually stripped of most of its key parts, leaving only the butchered body and some of the more sedan-specific bits, the chassis, which I had already z’d, and the ubiquitous Ford small block (just how many of these do I now have in my stash anyway?). Along the way I had acquired another copy of the kit, and although it too lost its flathead, it was largely intact and its body untouched. Over the years my skills have thankfully improved somewhat, and I began thinking it was time to pick this project up and complete what I had originally intended. Then recently a handsome black Deuce Tudor commissioned by George Poteet and built by Johnson’s Rod Shop was featured in The Rodder’s Journal and I took this as a sign and an inspiration. I decided that I would attempt as flawless a chop and paint job as I am capable of at this point, and make a jet black fenderless highboy from the original z’d frame and what few parts still remained from the project. My first step was to remove about 3 scale inches from the top and execute a basic black paint job using Duplicolor Black Acrylic Lacquer, 3 coats of color over hot rod gray primer, wet sanded between every coat and then sealed under 3 coats of clear. The clear will be left to cure good and hard before I rub it out for its final polish, but so far it looks promising. No sense in doing this project if I couldn’t pull off decent paint and bodywork… I’ll be running a full hood with the stock louvered side panels. While the paint cures I’ve started on the additional bits. First off was to attempt to do something with the Ford small block. I decided to fabricate a dual 4-barrel intake manifold using 3 of the countless copies I have of the kit’s single 4-barrel manifold. Along the way I also smoothed the script off the kit’s Ford Motorsport valve covers, although I think I might use the ribbed valve covers from the 5-window kit instead. We’ll see. The carbs and air cleaners are from a Revell Small Block Chevy Parts Pak. The wheels will be classic Halibrand kidney bean mags courtesy of Historic Racing Miniatures, finished in magnesium Testors Metalizer with polished rims simulated thanks to my handy 1 mm. Molotow Chrome paint pen (the Molotow is really a breakthrough allowing instantly realistic polished chrome-like surfaces for small parts). Tires will be narrow bias-ply big and little blackwalls all around, the fronts from a Revellogram ’37 Ford Panel Truck and the rears Herb Deeks truck tire items, my current rear tire of choice for old-school hot rods. Below is a summary of where I’m at so far, including the original z’d chassis which I’ll be using. Thanx for lookin’, B.

#98, above, is visible! But the rest are still MIA.

I've just revived an old project and I'm basing it on doing as near flawless a paint job as I can muster. As part of the challenge I've decided to do it in jet black. The good news is so far everything is working out. I'm using the approach used by my friend Raul Perez which has produced some superb results. Raul wet sands between coats, starting with 400 grit at the primer and initial color coat stages, then working his way up to 2000 grit as he adds color and clear coats. He lets the paint cure thoroughly between wet sandings, generally for several days between coats. Then at the end, depending on the result, he may skip a final pass with polishing cloths if his clear coats are smooth enough. I've done the primer, color and clear coats and everything is pretty smooth, but there is the slightest bit of waviness or micro-orange peal, too minor to show up in photographs, but visible to my eye when the surfaces are viewed at an angle to the light source. My question is this: If I use polishing cloths. 3200 through 12000 grit, it will get rid of any final irregularities, but it will leave a slight haziness. Is there a way to restore the final deep gloss, for example with liquid polishes? Or am I better off leaving the freshly applied clear coat gloss in your opinion?

I'm looking forward to seeing your skills and always meticulous approach to a box-stock show rod build (of all things - who would of thunk it?). The slicks are an indication of a crispn and precise build stylr that we don't often see in this subject matter. Props to your son for providing us with this change-up from your bench!

Gorgeous!!!! And the pics nail the spirit of the car so well. Hubba, hubba!

Rats! I can't see them either!

The AMT and Revell '40 Ford Coupes (presumably the basis for a straight up comparison) each embody the essence of the era in which they were designed and, along with it, the underlying philosophy that produced each kit. Each has its strengths, as is clear from the comments so far, each has enough qualities to garner its group of fans. The AMT '40 Ford Coupe is a storied kit, dating back to the dawn of auto modeling's Golden Age. I'm no modeling historian so I can't say precisely when it was introduced but I would have to guess on either side of 1960. It is a very early AMT kit with an efficient logic to the assembly, a sturdy structure, and a low parts count. For this reason it has always been a favorite for those of us who like to chop, section, channel and generally hack our way into a model. The Revell '40 Ford is far more fragile and finicky to work with. It is, however, infinitely more detailed, and as has already been noted, is chock full of finely made, accurate parts. As a replica model it leaves the AMT kit in the dust. As a basis for hot rodding and customizing, unfortunately, the Revell kit can be a PITA. First off, there are two versions to consider, the stock Standard coupe, and the Street Rod version. The street rod version has a totally modern chassis in contrast to the stocker, which has a gorgeous, well detailed representation of the factory chassis. The only knock on the stocker is that for some demented reason they chose to specify a Columbia 2-speed rear axle. WTF???? Rare and relatively obscure and a significant downside to an otherwise brilliant parts kit, as also already noted, to build period correct hot rods. The flathead V8 in either kit will serve you well for any hot rod project, and the street rod motor, in contrast to the street rod kit's chassis, is relatively close to being right for a '50's era build if you need it, with its Edelbrock heads and dual-carb intake manifold. But the Revell '40 Coupe is a Standard, with it's simplified grill held over from the '39 Deluxe Fords, and this is less typically associated with the classic hot rod '40 Ford coupe which tends to be thought of as a DeLuxe with its narrow-peaked three-part grill. Like the Columbia 2-speed, one wonders why Revell went that route. The Standard, is significantly less iconic in doing a rod or custom build and takes some of the shine off this otherwise superbly executed kit. So the AMT kit is old-fashioned, somewhat over-simplified by modern standards, suffers from "soft" detailing and aging tooling, and by any objective standard is an inferior kit. But, as I said, it's built like a tank, with a separate one-piece fender set, a sturdy interior bucket, and will hold up to the most severe attacks from your trusty Zona. And its's a DeLuxe conceived in the heyday of hot rodding and customizing by the gang at AMT, who new a thing or three about the "soul" of a hot rod or custom. For this reason it's far easier to handle when doing more advanced rod or custom work and it incontrovertibly has The Look. So despite being a significantly inferior kit from a modern technical perspective, it is actually more likely to reward the builder with a successful rod or custom than the Revell kit, whose complexities and fragility tends to interfere all along the way during the build process. My opinion is that if you want to build a replica stock Standard Coupe, or Revell's very specific vision of a modern street rod (which unfortunately suffers from Revell's usual wretched stance), then go with Revell kit, but the AMT kit, for all it's shortcomings, is a superior Weapon of Choice for the hot rod and custom kit basher. BTW, several years ago I tried to do the AMT/ Revell Tudor hybrid AceGarageGuy mentioned above and finally gave up because the Revell street rod chassis refused to play nice with the AMT fender assembly. I'm a far better modeler now than I was then, but regardless of my improved skills, it would be no picnic!