envious8420

it shouldn't be an issue, as quick as i can disconnect my gun and walk out of the booth, i turn the oven on at work. in my experience lacquer bases are fully dry in 30 min. and depending on the clear, anywhere from 1-5 hours to be sandable for polish. i like to wet sand with 1200-2000 grit then give it another hour or so to completely gas out before polishing

that little supertrapp is sweet!

i used sheet styrene and tenax. i cut the styrene to fit the opening and glued it in place with the tenax. then a quick shot of evercoat metal glaze filler, sand and prime. atleast thats how i did mine.

makes me wanna dig the drag bug build out and work on it. yours is looking fantastic!

good to see the tail lights worked for you.

get ahold of 1320wayne and davezinn both have extensive fotki or pb folders

more and better pics. thanks again dave! mr. zinn was cool enough to step me through the rusted salt process and with the pointers he passed to me, this is what i did. when i bought this kit i had plans of prettying it all up, but after sitting on the shelf for over a year... i finally decided this would be a great learning tool. i had to scratch up all of the interior tin and firewall sides and ill be adding all of the holes and whatnot to those trim is sharpie. with some dents and whatever

looks like any of the revell rails would work. get with davezinn on this board he is an encyclopedia.

latest project. been following a tutorial from Mr. Zinn color looks right on still more weathering to do yet and of course all of the jambs will line up when it gets glued together. comments always welcomed.

mornin' boys, had to go real on this one.

i wanna get in on the tail draggin' 30s ford fad and im looking for a truck kit big enough to use these so real 49" trxus mt's on.im also working on my first junkyard beater (im excited about this one!) also want to find a 24th street bike

Hey Jim, good to see you here! Guys check out this guys stuff, Very cool and there is always something different when i go to his site. and $6 shipping, who could beat that!!

i keep forgetting about that, i have 2 baby wipe containers and when it gets funky i run the fluid through some cheese cloth into the second container. when its finally dead i take it to work and dump it in the tank for the oil burning furnace.

sweet build, that seems fairly close to what abe is doing. ive got a chopped 32' i want to do like that, how are you guys getting the axle so high into the wheel well?

Dang Virgil, wish i could just finish one in the time it takes you to do ten. ha another sweet pair from the master.

wow! bet those decals took forever, very nice job! welcome to the board. seems alot of new ppl from ohio lately, is it getting cold up north already? <<<<<former northeast Ohioan.

very cool Jeff. im diggin' the black roof!

Very Sweet Ron! how about some kit info, id like to get my hands on atleast 2 for sure daddyo!

the mustang wagons were known as "mustang stallions". i would love to get my hands on one! the 2010 is a concept from ford. Harry, did you ps that stang without seeing a stallion before? if so thats awesome. i also dug the tail light treatment on the other one. i would love to find a panel like that for my ranger. can we start a photoshop category here on the board? im pretty fair myself. we could have a show area, perhaps a tut section for those who have the program and maybe a request section.(someone might wanna see a combination for a build). cardomain is acting up so i cant post the ones i have stored there. (not my pics, sourced them from google images.)

a soak in some dot3 brake fluid should do it. depending on the paint, soak it for a few hours and try to scrape the paint off with your finger nail. if it comes off, grab an old toothbrush and go to town. if not soak for longer. repeated "applications" may be necessary

very cool for 2 bucks, your rear tires are both for the same side though looking at the directional markings.

ask your radiator shop about an anode to drop in the radiator. its a soft metal puck that the acid will eat instead of your engine parts. its actually quite common. the anode will help save the block and head from any more damage.

have you tried the motors out of an old pager? the ones that vibrate? you could pull to counter weight off and gear it that way. or leave the weight on and key your pinion gear to it.(if you are machining, of course)

me 3!

ok, thanks guys. i figured epoxy would be the way, just didnt want to mix epoxy 6 times.(once for each blade.) and i already painted the center so ca is out. (fogging) ill post complete start to finish pics shortly.