gman

Regional differences I guess. Around here, it was not uncommon to see a V8 Maverick or Comet warmed up, running aftermarket wheels, maybe some custom paint. Sometimes all the mods amounted to restored bodywork and kept all of the big changes under the hood. A healthy small block Ford could really move one of these cars. I still see the odd one- I came across a clean Maverick Grabber parked on a suburban side street wearing a for sale sign a couple of years ago, that only needed some TLC and minor rust repair to be really sharp. If I had an extra parking spot, the $2900 asking price and maybe another $2000-3000 to drop into it, would have turned into a really sharp ride...less common than the usual "muscle cars" with comparable performance.

That sounds like a good score. While I have seen later issue JoHan Comet and Maverick pro stock kits on vendors tables at swap meets, they don't include most of the factory stock pieces, and were priced considerably higher than you paid for the eBay listing. Worth it? It would be to me, as I have loved the subject matter ever since seeing "Day 2" warmed up Mavericks and Comets roaming the streets. Looking forward to a build thread in the WIP section.

Great job on this. I really like those Glidden wheels, and they look perfect on the finished model.

Bingo- sad state of affairs with COVID at the border. I used to visit Bellingham (or points south) every second week, and made a point of perusing Hobby Lobby, seeing as we don't have them up here. The wife and I have enjoyed travelling up and down the coast, and the I5 corridor. Most places I have visited, I look up a hobby shop or two when possible. There are a decent number of good local hobby shops, so all is not lost, but that Hobby Lobby 40% off coupon has netted me many kits that would set me back $40 CDN up here. HL's clearance kit prices are even better, provided it is something you want to build (or use to augment the parts box). Michael's used to carry a good assortment of plastic kits that can be discounted with a coupon, but stock is minimal in the last few years. I believe that Firebird is priced closer to $60 north of the border, no coupon applicable. At that price, not an easy decision, but for $24 not bad, if you like the subject matter.

That depends. It has its pros and cons. If you like large scale, it is the only game in town for that vehicle. Hobby Lobby had them for $39.99 that you can apply a 40% off coupon to (if there is a HL close to you). I was debating picking one up, but with COVID-19, it will be a long time before I see the inside of a Hobby Lobby again in the US and A

I bought that kit back when it was released- while there were some things that were done relatively well, no it wasn't based on the AMT/ERTL kit and parts don't interchange with it. The headlight treatment and tires were the weakest parts of the kit. I believe the tail lights were messed up in the example I purchased, and the AMTs weren't a proper fit for replacement. I ended up using the body as an airbrush test subject.

The reviews on Amazon are all over the map, so I suppose for the price there isn't much harm in trying one. Quality control won't be consistent with a "clone" or knock-off product- you may get lucky, or you may need to tweak things. It sounds like it is a knock-off of an Iwata, and some reviewers say Iwata parts are interchangeable. Another option for you might be an Iwata Neo series brush- a lower priced airbrush with the gravity feed option. As you might expect from a Chinese made airbrush, QC also varies from airbrush to airbrush, but these are made in Taiwan (usually considered a cut above mainland China) and backed by an actual Iwata warranty. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=iwata+neo&ref=nb_sb_noss_1 (would depend on whether you can justify the extra cost for manufacturer support) https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/neo-for-iwata

That really deserved to be woken from its slumber and finished. Excellent job.

It's beautiful. A home run, and with that paintwork you do so well overtop of a clean build, hard to top.

A link to the product you are asking about might yield some results.

I think you'll find that is a very nice kit, especially now that it has instructions

It is...perfect. A beautiful looking 'Cuda.

That looks really good!

Great success (so far).

That's a "bingo!" Revellogram's '37 Ford Tudor sedan. Originally issued by Monogram, and now wearing the Revell label.

Heat up the worst of the warped area, plus a good margin on either side. Apply pressure to the area marked by the arrow, pushing it outward at least the same distance as the warp is inwards. Hold it in that position for a while until it cools, or speed it up by running cold water over it while you hold it beyond the desired position. That looks like something that can be corrected, though it may take a few tries. If the plastic lightens while you push the warped area outwards, that is a sign it isn't hot enough to make the plastic malleable enough to be un-warped. A hair dryer is another method (as mentioned), but a heat gun would probably be too much.

It isn't an exact science, but worth a shot. You'll have to bend it beyond true, hold it for a while. The idea is to heat it to the point it takes the stresses and warp out of the plastic, and hold it there until it cools enough to hold its new and improved shape. Most kit parts warp because they have been taken out of the mold and packed too soon (with some kit contents virtually being crammed into the box)- when they cool, rather than taking the shape they were molded in, their shape becomes distorted. There is a good chance only a portion of the part has taken on a warp, and that is exactly the area you'll want to concentrate on with hot water and reshaping. Posting some pictures may illustrate the magnitude of the problem with your parts.

With the hot water technique, you want to use water that is just hot enough to change the plastic's warp, but not hot enough to cause it to lose its shape, i.e. cooler than boiling. Water out of the tap may be hot enough, depending on how hot your water tank is set- allow the hot water to run, stick the parts in the stream long enough to slowly bend it back into shape (and then some). As the plastic has a memory, you'll want to bend it beyond straight and hold it that way. Once it it close to where you want it, set the shape with cold water while you hold the part in that position, so it (hopefully) doesn't return to being warped. It may take a few attempts, and using less pressure to correct the warp is better than too much, where the plastic becomes stressed. If the water out of the tap isn't hot enough, you can warm some up in a pot on the stove, but you'll want to ensure the water isn't heated enough to burn your hands while you hold the part in its desired shape. Again, you can set the corrected shape by holding it in the desired position under cold running water.

As someone who saw Chevelles and Beaumonts rumbling along on Canadian streets through my childhood and young adulthood, (and always having a slight preference for the Beaumont), I give you a big "thumbs up" for the work you are doing on this.

That is something you would have to answer for yourself- if you think it might be worth too much to build, and you want to sell it one day, that is understandable. It is your kit, and if it is something you are looking forward to building, by all means build away. For what it is worth, it has been re-issued a few times, and you could always pick up a re-issue and build that while you decide. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Revell-85-2377-Datsun-510-Turner-Series-1-25-Scale-2002-MIB-Model-Kit-Nice-Kit/153954696939?hash=item23d86a3eeb:g:JpUAAOSwFl9e08l7 I have a love for the subject matter, and if it were in my collection I wouldn't feel guilty about building it. I have driven the 1:1 510 and ridden in a number of them over the years- my brother built performance versions of many of them in 1:1, 2 drs, 4drs, a wagon. The original issue (and most of the various versions that were re-issued) are cool little kits, as is the Hasegawa Nissan Bluebird kit. It is not impossible to re-engineer the dash should one want to build it into a LHD version. https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10000358

That is looking beautiful. Wonderful craftsmanship.

You are an artist with the flames, masks, paint- that is some of the nicest scale flame treatment I have seen. Your build thread illustrates just how nicely your plan has come together in the finished product here. This turned out great.

You have done an amazing job on the paintwork- phenomenal.

Having purchased that kit many years ago (an 80's issue), I wouldn't necessarily call it "terrible," but it certainly is dated in engineering. The hinged doors are not very well executed, but as some builders in this thread have illustrated, this can be worked around to still end up with a good looking model. Posing it with the doors open minimizes the door gaps/fit, and scale of the hinges some, allowing the rest of the build to be showcased. While I would much rather start with a kit made to the standards of the 90's or newer, if you want to build this particular truck (which is one of Henry's better efforts IMHO), this kit is still the only game in town. With this one still relatively available, it wouldn't make the most sense for a kit manufacturer to do a modern take on a new release. I may get the bug to have another go at this kit one day, but with so many great kits in the stash it will have to wait.

I have a can of that Boyd Red enamel stashed somewhere. I have seen a few of Testors bottle paints with hues that are very close if not exact matches to some of those Colors By Boyd line of paints. I haven't sprayed or airbrushed any enamel for years, but may be tempted to try the Donn Yost method with remnants in my stash.