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Everything posted by gman

  1. I am not surprised your model received that kind of positive attention at the show- your meticulous building style and your ability to turn each individual part into a model in and of itself is amazing. Combine that with the overall scale realism you achieve, and they just had to recognize your work. Beautiful build, and I am glad it got the attention it deserves. I am looking forward to your next creation.
  2. I believe Model Car Garage did the photoetched grills for Replicas & Miniatures of Maryland (stock height or chopped '32 Ford style), who then included them with their resin grill surrounds. I don't believe they did a stock-style Model A grill. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/replicas-and-miniatures-company-maryland-rh-414-32-ford-chopped-grille--1291980 R&MoM's headers should work: https://public.fotki.com/IceMan555/resin-archives/replicas-miniatures/all/41-470808281128.html Bob's photoetch and Norm's resin parts are both first rate.
  3. Thank you- I am going to have to try that.
  4. Phenomenal build. I love every single part of it. Tell me about who makes that shade of red.
  5. I believe it is supposed to be a generic MOPAR small block, simulating a 340.
  6. Alclad II has a few colours that may be close. https://alclad2.com/finishes/regular/ You might get pretty close mixing these two, or overcoating one with the other: https://alclad2.com/finishes/regular/alc-113-jet-exhaust/ https://alclad2.com/finishes/regular/alc-123-exhaust-manifold/
  7. Tamiya Racing White is closer to what you see in this example. If you have an airbrush and want to experiment, you can buy the bottled LP series Tamiya Lacquers (White, Racing White) and mix them together to tone down the brightness of the white and incorporate some of the ivory shades for a final colour more in between the two. Vintage reference paint chips can change colour over time, and lighting/camera will skew the colour of photographed subjects. https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/tamiya-color-lacquer-10ml/lacquer-lp-2-white/10ml-bottle/ https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/tamiya-color-lacquer-10ml/lacquer-lp-39-racing-white/10ml-bottle/
  8. Wow- your candy red paint job really pops on the '57. Excellent job, it looks great.
  9. I have a few of the Bare Metal scribers. One with quite a bit of wear on it plus a brand new one. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/bare-metal-foil-bmf003-panel-scriber--321399 I haven't tried the Tamiya scriber, but will give it a shot if I can locate one locally.
  10. The majority of the time I scribe panel lines to deepen them, it raises the surrounding areas a bit. I like to use a sanding stick as a scale "long board" to true up panels on either side of the line that was scribed before paint. You won't be able to take care of this detail after paint, and depending on how much distortion you see in the plastic surrounding your scribed panel lines it may end up requiring some sanding and a repaint to look correct under subsequent coats.
  11. Dry pearl pigments will show best in clear coats or in transparent paints like pure candy colours. They will show a little bit in translucent metallic paints, but the effects will be subdued. Opaque paints will cover up any pearl additives you might stir into them and be a waste of time. If you will be spraying a white lacquer base, a compatible lacquer clear will be the best medium to carry the pearl pigments over top of that.
  12. I believe a .7 tip should do the job, as long as your clear is thinned properly to flow out without pooling/running and you don't overload it with flake (which can give a textured finish if you use too much). Some test sprays on a scrap body should help you dial in how much pearl is too much without using your model as a test bed.
  13. If you have an air brush, you can add your own pearl powder to Tamiya clear. You can get different pearl powders from Michaels, Hobby Lobby or even Amazon in a variety of colours and flake sizes. My recommendation would be to start off with less powder per paint jar of clear than you think you will need, and build it up in coats rather than try to get the effect with one heavy pearl-laden coat. https://www.jacquardproducts.com/pearl-ex
  14. I am really liking that paint job, along with the combo for the interior colour. Nice work so far.
  15. LP ;fe \ \ ppppppppppppppp Edit- disregard. Cat on keyboard
  16. Love your '32. Great job bringing it across home plate.
  17. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/mpc-1-0746-scavenger--1014935 I built a previous version of that kit back when it was a new release- at least in my kit, the hood sat right when flipped up, but all of the MPC flip front kits from the era ('57 chevy, '57 Corvette, Datsun and Ford pickups) had fiddly hinges that had to be installed right for the hood to sit properly...I built them all. IIRC, the Datsun, Chevy and Ford all had the same generic frame assembly. The hinges had oversized holes that locate to pins on the front of the frame and had a fair margin of error, but if installed correctly the hood would sit properly at the cowl. If there is flash on your hinges, you could use that to your advantage for a more precise fit.
  18. I do believe you're right...there is a detail in the 3 window wheel well stamping just above the frame rail (usually hidden behind the rear wheel) that I hadn't noticed before. On 5 windows and roadsters, the wheel well is more visible when built as a hi-boy, and the Revell flat wheel well in the kit doesn't quite look right. Now that my curiosity has been piqued, I need to see what the same part looks like on a real steel tudor sedan also. I hear what you are saying about the non-OEM hemi. The next time I work on one of Revell's 3 window deuces I will try to incorporate that to get that detail right. We all know it's plastic, but the period I usually shoot for with a build is before fiberglass replica bodies existed, and it is satisfying to give the model a "real steel" look by sneaking in extra detail that isn't in the box. Your build is certainly looking the part.
  19. If there is a '32 expert that can correct me, I'm all ears. The '32 5 window and and roadster had wheel wells like in your attached image. I believe 3 windows and sedans actually had flat wheel wells (more like what is represented in Revell's kits). I started mastering a pair years ago for the roadster with the intention of casting multiples in resin, but the work was sidelined by work of the paid variety.
  20. Try using one of those suction mount bench vises- you can insert a round toothpick into the driveshaft end of the transmission and secure the other end in the vise to hold the engine. That leaves two hands for doing the wiring and other detailing.
  21. All of those components look very promising- I'll look forward to watching your build.
  22. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/flathead-ford-v8-engine-colors.392087/
  23. If you want a flathead V8 in a '29 (to represent a hot rodded AV8), you are free to choose whichever early flathead color you like. The flathead V8 made its debut in '32 and it would have been an inline 4 installed in the Model A originally by ol' Henry Ford. Early flathead V8s were various shades of green, with later ones red. https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/engine/historic-engines-the-fabulous-ford-flathead/ I'd probably narrow down which generation your chosen flathead represents and paint it a color appropriate to its approximate model year...or go custom on the engine paint. Flatheads can be identified by the type of distributor, shape of the heads and location of the water inlets as these varied over the different generations between 1932 and 1953 model years.
  24. As a lover of Fat Fendered early Fords, you have done that kit justice. You'll never lose one that color in a parking lot- looks great.
  25. I would start with some Evergreen styrene square rod in a size that looks right. Break the junction blocks down into their simplest shapes, and bond pieces together with liquid glue (something like Tenax 7R) to get the "T" shapes you want. Gently sand them on a flat surface like a Flexi File when the glue has fully cured, then drill them for your brake lines. You can use your favourite brass metalizer type paint to get the right colour and sheen. https://evergreenscalemodels.com/collections/14-white-polystrene-strips/products/131-030-x-030 (random size square strip) https://www.hobbyworks.com/cproduct/17500%2Fstyrene-tack-it-ii-adhesive-(formerly-tenax-7r)-plastic-welder https://flex-i-file.com/en-ca/products/525-flex-pad-intro-set https://www.sunwardhobbies.ca/alclad-ii-alc-109-polished-brass/?absrc=Google&abid=&abcampid=17854858780&gclid=CjwKCAiA1MCrBhAoEiwAC2d64YnKgeDDkAlnPWuM3oujK4IYiQ26Dy6-1Tc9bDFlG4e9YGH2rnjLEhoC_j8QAvD_BwE&gad_source=1 This will be far easier to work with than real brass, and allow you to make more complex shapes without having to machine small pieces of metal. Tenax (now has a new name) holds well, dries fast, and will allow the styrene to be sanded when fully dry without showing seams.
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