gman

Thanks for the preview- they did a beautiful job bringing a stunning vehicle to kit form. The parts appear to be extremely finely done in all of the different media they have included in the box. I can see how the pricing matches the value of the included craftsmanship. Sadly, I won't be able to bring one of those home.

Very nice. Great job (and quick building too).

^^ stock '32 passenger car grill '34 Ford truck (aka commercial) grill Notice the thicker grill shell, differently shaped grill insert. The passenger car version sits at a slightly different angle to my eyes also- thicker at the bottom than the top. When you get into hot-rodded examples, there is a wide variety in terms of what grill shell they have fitted up.

Smooth-On was going to be the next product I'll try when I gear up to cast some more parts. There is a distributor for their products close to me. Availability had a lot to do with the last product I tried, as a local brick & mortar hobby shop stocked it. Thankfully there are online sources for many different resins these days.

Sensitivity to resins might not start off with an allergic reaction, but it can end up that way with cumulative exposures. While formulas often differ, you might have to try a few different brands depending on what you can find in small quantities...you don't want to commit to a gallon or more if it ends up causing the same reaction. I went through quite a bit of Por-A-Kast one year, and while my symptoms weren't horrible they seemed to intensify after several months of use and would be less once the resin had fully cured. The Por-A-Kast worked pretty well but was pretty smelly. Hobby Lobby shows Amazing Casting Resin (white) available if that is what you are using. If you plan to buy online, there are a number of other suppliers- you might get some good recommendations from the regular casters on the forum.

If Tamiya has a shade of flat olive drab in the ballpark, you could cover it with clear gloss to get the shine. https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/pages/1960-buick If that Buick is a '60 it looks darker than Lucerne Green Poly, but it could be the lighting too.

One day I am going to try some Mr. Color. I am guessing that is part of their lacquer line?

As for foil over or under clear, if your foil sticks well and you've scribed the lines around chrome trim to be deeper, foil over clear works well. If you haven't scribed lines around chrome trim, there are techniques for helping with that too. Lay some tape lines around the trim, foil and use the tape lines as a guide for trimming the foil with a new #11 blade. Gently removing the tape helps lift the unwanted foil.

The build and the paint look great- reminiscent of Bittersweet Poly. What did you use for paint on the body? It looks like it laid down very nicely.

That's a nice paint job. It would almost be a shame to distress it, but the heart wants what it wants. Having some Jeep history myself, I'll stay tuned on your build.

One of my favourite '32 Ford models. I have been wishing some respected resin caster would do a body to fit the Revell series of '32s. I am happy to watch this one come together.

Oldsmobile should have offered this configuration- your version looks excellent.

You may get lucky and find a Model Car Garage photo etched detail set for a different vehicle that is large enough to fill the Caddy grill opening. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/196637560865 There is also generic, which may be of use.

I agree, great job. Not to mention, this build thread is hoppin'... I know- low hanging fruit 😆. I wonder if your rabbit will take pride in contributing to your build. My condolences on the loss of your family members.

What a clean looking Beetle- paintwork looks great.

That's a great build of one of my all-time favourite 32's. Nice job!

That is an excellent looking dropped I-beam axle. If you post your progress it would be interesting to follow along. I am also curious as to how the 3D printed parts hold their shape when holding up the weight of your model.

The solvents in Testors enamels are not that "hot" so while flammable if you intentionally try to light some on fire, licking the flame from a lighter around a stuck cap does not result in shattering jars or pressurizing the jar to the point bad things happen. The metal cap heats and expands at a different rate than the glass jar, and all that happens is that it slightly breaks the seal so the cap can be unscrewed.

I have experienced that with Testors bottle paints- from the 70's to present. Some colours are worse for that than others. Sometimes they separate and clump on the bottom (and no amount of mixing gets it back), sometimes the solvent seems like it gassed off leaving a curdled clump in the bottom of the jar- even when the jar has never been opened. The flat colours always seem to do this over time. Lacquer thinner may get them usable if you won't be overcoating other enamels with it. A safer bet would be Testors airbrush thinner which I have used multiple times. These days I leave the Testors enamels alone for the most part as there are better paints available- whether you'll be brush painting or spraying it through an airbrush. As for opened bottles that have sealed themselves shut, running a flame around the edge of the metal cap sometimes helps but if it is really stubborn, turn it upside down and put a few drops of laquer thinner inside the edge of the cap and let it sit that way for a while.

That is some very impressive trim relocation and sculpting. It explains why that Galaxie I have been watching take shape has to be patient 😆. I am looking forward to seeing this one get the foil treatment on that new trim. It will be a subtle modification that gets overlooked by the uninitiated for sure (just like what they did on vehicle that inspired this model), but you have witnesses as to how much work it takes to recreate the look of the 1:1. I am going to have to look up that Maindrian Pace technique.

She's a beauty. Well done.

Very nice. Those colours look great together, and the build has a nice period look.

That should make for a nice colour. Staying tuned on this '32 build also.

It would need some putty work and re-engraving on the cowl, or (better yet) the older cowl portion grafted in should you have the Rat Roaster version of this tooling, or the original Revell 32 roadster hanging around. IIRC, Revell modified the Rat Roaster tooling to produce the current kit which was a separate tool from the original issue roadster.