gman

If Tamiya has a shade of flat olive drab in the ballpark, you could cover it with clear gloss to get the shine. https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/pages/1960-buick If that Buick is a '60 it looks darker than Lucerne Green Poly, but it could be the lighting too.

One day I am going to try some Mr. Color. I am guessing that is part of their lacquer line?

As for foil over or under clear, if your foil sticks well and you've scribed the lines around chrome trim to be deeper, foil over clear works well. If you haven't scribed lines around chrome trim, there are techniques for helping with that too. Lay some tape lines around the trim, foil and use the tape lines as a guide for trimming the foil with a new #11 blade. Gently removing the tape helps lift the unwanted foil.

The build and the paint look great- reminiscent of Bittersweet Poly. What did you use for paint on the body? It looks like it laid down very nicely.

That's a nice paint job. It would almost be a shame to distress it, but the heart wants what it wants. Having some Jeep history myself, I'll stay tuned on your build.

One of my favourite '32 Ford models. I have been wishing some respected resin caster would do a body to fit the Revell series of '32s. I am happy to watch this one come together.

Oldsmobile should have offered this configuration- your version looks excellent.

You may get lucky and find a Model Car Garage photo etched detail set for a different vehicle that is large enough to fill the Caddy grill opening. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/196637560865 There is also generic, which may be of use.

I agree, great job. Not to mention, this build thread is hoppin'... I know- low hanging fruit 😆. I wonder if your rabbit will take pride in contributing to your build. My condolences on the loss of your family members.

What a clean looking Beetle- paintwork looks great.

That's a great build of one of my all-time favourite 32's. Nice job!

That is an excellent looking dropped I-beam axle. If you post your progress it would be interesting to follow along. I am also curious as to how the 3D printed parts hold their shape when holding up the weight of your model.

The solvents in Testors enamels are not that "hot" so while flammable if you intentionally try to light some on fire, licking the flame from a lighter around a stuck cap does not result in shattering jars or pressurizing the jar to the point bad things happen. The metal cap heats and expands at a different rate than the glass jar, and all that happens is that it slightly breaks the seal so the cap can be unscrewed.

I have experienced that with Testors bottle paints- from the 70's to present. Some colours are worse for that than others. Sometimes they separate and clump on the bottom (and no amount of mixing gets it back), sometimes the solvent seems like it gassed off leaving a curdled clump in the bottom of the jar- even when the jar has never been opened. The flat colours always seem to do this over time. Lacquer thinner may get them usable if you won't be overcoating other enamels with it. A safer bet would be Testors airbrush thinner which I have used multiple times. These days I leave the Testors enamels alone for the most part as there are better paints available- whether you'll be brush painting or spraying it through an airbrush. As for opened bottles that have sealed themselves shut, running a flame around the edge of the metal cap sometimes helps but if it is really stubborn, turn it upside down and put a few drops of laquer thinner inside the edge of the cap and let it sit that way for a while.

That is some very impressive trim relocation and sculpting. It explains why that Galaxie I have been watching take shape has to be patient 😆. I am looking forward to seeing this one get the foil treatment on that new trim. It will be a subtle modification that gets overlooked by the uninitiated for sure (just like what they did on vehicle that inspired this model), but you have witnesses as to how much work it takes to recreate the look of the 1:1. I am going to have to look up that Maindrian Pace technique.

She's a beauty. Well done.

Very nice. Those colours look great together, and the build has a nice period look.

That should make for a nice colour. Staying tuned on this '32 build also.

It would need some putty work and re-engraving on the cowl, or (better yet) the older cowl portion grafted in should you have the Rat Roaster version of this tooling, or the original Revell 32 roadster hanging around. IIRC, Revell modified the Rat Roaster tooling to produce the current kit which was a separate tool from the original issue roadster.

https://www.tedsmodelingmarketplace.com/modern-drag-racing-contingency-decal-sheet-2-1-25/ I can't say if it is the size you need, but this sheet contains a group of four Milodon decals.

Do you knock down the texture in your primer before spraying the colour coats, or cover the primer as-shot? Some automotive primers exhibit texture that will take a lot of colour coats to smooth it out. Tamiya and Mr. Hobby fine surface primers lay down with a very smooth eggshell texture and work well under Tamiya lacquers. Stynylrez primer does the same, but requires airbrushing.

The '67 was always one of my favourite Galaxies, and I have admired the lines from when the 1:1 car was new. After finding them to be "unobtainium" online when I tried to find a scale version, it is nice to see your build in pictures. I am looking forward to seeing what you'll do with it.

The paint being cut with lacquer thinner (which evaporates quicker than normal enamel airbrush thinner) should speed up the cure time compared to spraying with enamel thinner. Enamel normally dries on the surface first, with lighter coats drying quicker than thicker coats. Polishing too soon will cut through that skin into layers that are still in the process of drying. As mentioned, if the surface feels dry to the touch and doesn't leave finger prints when you touch it, no longer smells like freshly sprayed enamel it may be OK to attempt some polishing. Novus is pretty mild, so test by lightly polishing a small inconspicuous section to see how the paint reacts before going to town on the entire body. If it seems a lot of colour is coming off on your polishing cloth and the surface being polished is dull and sticky, stop until it has dried for a longer period.

If the new build turns out just as good as the four previous builds, I had best stay tuned.