gman

The builder of the 1:1 certainly had a knack for bringing his vision to completion, and you did a fine job of rendering that vision in scale. Thank you for sharing the build and out takes. I appreciate the back story of why this model kit was never reissued, though I suspect there are many builders who could overcome the build issues you describe, much like you did. A re-issue would likely be a money maker should they ever have a change of heart, as it makes a very cool looking shelf piece.

That turned out awesome!

You have done an excellent job with this build- as someone who appreciated the 1:1 back when it seemed the general public didn't seem to give them their due, I have enjoyed watching your build come together. Great paint choice and execution.

Sounds like overly optimistic marketing. Most enamels in a spray can will have the outer skin on the paint job dry in a few hours if the coats are thin, but for full cure the portion under that skin will take a long time- think in terms of weeks/months rather than hours. Can you use Rustoleum spray on your model? Sure, but you'll get superior results that stand up to handling and assembly with Tamiya spray over their primer.

I had a previous issue of that kit from the early 2000's- considering its age and the fact that it is an ex-MPC kit, it wasn't as horrible as some but there was lots of flash over many of the parts along with some warping. Can it be built? For sure, but it doesn't compare to some other reissues (AMT, MPC etc) of older tools. We'll have to see what Round 2 has done with the tooling.

In the sympathy category, I had the same happen with ink jet decal paper in my Epson printer- the ink beaded up on the paper and distorted the printed image. I tried a few things including rubbing the decal paper area to be printed with an eraser, which only marginally made a difference. Different printer modes did not make much difference. Some printers and their inks just work better for decal paper than others. I've still got the Epson printer, and haven't tried again- I may have another go when the printer gets replaced.

He should be pleased with your build- you've done a great job on it. If it reflects the 1:1, I would say that is two nice '32 builds.

Wow- what a make-over. Great job, your 'Vette looks excellent. You really nailed that re-paint and the interior/exterior colours look perfect together..

Those '32 seats are looking right at home in your build. Enjoying this one very much.

https://cwmoss.com/products/rear-wheel-well-patch-panels-1932-ford-roadster-5-window-coupe-cabriolet I would like to see rear wheel wells corrected for the '32 Ford 5 window and roadster (as pictured in the link above)

Agreed- that is an excellent looking "B." On the 1:1, the clear windows were heat-sealed to the top material during production, and the design of the kit accurately reflects that look on your finished model. I had a later model MGB for about a decade (mine was an '80 with the rubber bumpers). While I tried finding an earlier chrome bumper car, most had rusted pretty badly by the time I was shopping around.

There is "accurate to the model/year" and there is "accurate to what you want to represent." For an absolutely stock model, you'd want to be as close as possible to what the vehicle rolled off ol' Henry's production line with. For a hot rod, well people have been modifying those since they were practically new, with many reasons for those modifications- accommodations to fit larger engines/bellhousings/transmissions, modifications for clearance or custom parts. If you spend hours looking at photos of Model A's you'll find many ways to skin that cat. Those ribs were originally stamped into the firewall to add rigidity to the panel. On many Model A's today, very little remains of the original firewall, so anything could technically be called correct for representing a hot-rodded example. Stuff in enough engine/intake and add parts like a firewall-mounted remote oil filter, regulator and fuel block and there is a good chance that you won't see much firewall under the hood ;).

You can use styrene half round stock for the thin ribs, and trim the basic shape of the center portion out of styrene flat stock, laminate them to the fire wall with liquid cement...once the cement is dry, blend the shapes and knock the corners down to round and shape them with sanding sticks and sandpaper. Shoot a couple of coats of primer over top, then massage the shapes some more. Primer, then paint.

There is a memorial page for him, it does not detail what happened.

That is horrible. The community has lost another talented human being.

Bubbles is likely propellant making it into the paint as it hits the body (from being too close) and becomes trapped in the paint. I would try some tests on spoons or a scrap body shooting the paint from farther away to try to find a happy medium where the paint doesn't run and texture is minimal upon full cure. The lacquer in Tamiya TS paints will actually bite into/melt/"activate" previous coats to a degree. That means if there is texture in your mist coats, spraying wetter coats over top will see the solvent melt into previous coats and minimize that texture. Subsequent coats may still show some slight texture, but that can level out as the paint cures and shrinks. If you balance the overall wetness when you spray your final colour coats, it should leave you with minimal texture that polishing compounds can take care of (or clear coats will cover, leaving you with a protective layer over your colour coats that can be wet sanded, polished and buffed to a high shine).

While I wouldn't go out and buy one (at this price) just for model building, I used to have one of these type of things for vinyl records that also happened to work very well to de-static models: https://www.sonicboommusic.com/products/zerostat-3-anti-static-gun

To quote Paris Hilton- "That's hot!" Nicely done. That colour pops under the clear and really suits the Caddy.

SEM makes a paint branded as EZ Coat Olive green- a search of the interwebz didn't turn up any affiliation with Dodge. https://www.smsdistributors.com/products/sem-62223-ez-coat-olive-green-16-oz-aerosol I have used SEM paints on 1:1 vehicle trim and interior parts. SEM paints are on the "hot" side for plastics, but if that is indeed the shade called out, you should be able to get something in the same ballpark in enamel, lacquer or even acrylic craft paint that will look the part without potentially crazing the kit styrene.

Deeply dropped beam axle top right- the Revell '32 had a tube axle. Transverse leaf centre of parts tree- definitely not Revell '32. Revell '40 Pro Modeller issue? It's been a while since I've had one of those on the bench, but from memory that'd be my best guess.

I'd second the "don't brush paint the body" sentiment. Spray bomb or air brush if you care about the look of the finished model. Primer should be thin coat(s) as should colour & clear.

What kind of part are you brush painting? What paint are you using?

Looking very good so far.