gman

Man, is this build shaping up to be awesome or what? It is already looking great, and those custom hood sides will take it over the top. I have often eyeballed that Tamiya green, and wondered what it would look good on. Now I know.

The last can I bought was found in Burnaby (BC) years ago. I don't believe I have seen it since. Hobby shops that carry RC car bodies and supplies would be where I would focus the search. https://www.pmhobbycraft.ca/mirror-chrome-paint-aerosol.html Amazon has it too- at more than double the price ? https://www.amazon.ca/Spaz-Stix-Ultimate-Aerosol-3-5-Ounce/dp/B0015H1FGA

That looks promising!

That chop on the Plymouth sure changes its attitude- looks downright angry (and nice color choice).

Oh no- I have never had this kit in-hand, so no idea what the missing spindles look like. Is it possible to scratchbuild what is missing based on the front + rear you do have?

Again with the excellent custom paint work and colour choice that works so well with the model's body lines- clean build. That HoK paint just glows.

That patina paint job sure tells a story. I love how this build turned out.

That sounds like a great kind of happy accident. I love the paint job, looks great. A "parchment" interior with black accents (dash, carpet, parcel shelf) may go very nicely with your custom shade of paint.

^^ larger photos of the same build, a member here on this forum. I would say that is an excellent burnt orange metallic type of colour, and it looks like it laid down really well for the builder. I like it.

That is looking awesome. The tail light work was well worth your time to nail the OEM + improvements restomod look. I am loving your build so far.

Another beautiful color choice on another well-built model. Kudos.

The way your model sits looks sooooo right. Add in the flathead, whitewalls, target era of the build- I really like what you are doing with this one.

A promising start- it looks like the paint you used laid down very nicely

If the quality of the project yields parts as nice as your other offerings, I would still consider seeing it through!

Yes, that was truly an excellent piece from Norm (as are all of the R&MCoM parts I have every received). Hopefully Norm sees it in his heart to bring that one back.

I have been using Zap A Gap since the 80's, and swear by their CA+ and CA++ formulas. Yes, I keep them in the fridge, and yes I sometimes have glue set up inside the nozzle. I take a wooden tooth pick, clear the passage in the nozzle with it- very carefully, or I find I have a broken wooden toothpick sealing the bottle up permanently. When kept in the fridge tightly capped (it comes in a pill type container, with two caps inner/outer on the actual bottle) the Zap A Gap stays usable for years.

I'll certainly have to get a few of those if they turn up locally.

That doesn't look to be an original '32 Ford center crossmember aka "K" member. I scratchbuilt one for a vintage hot rod project a few years back, using reference photos and breaking it down into simpler shapes that could be built up using laminated strip and sheet styrene. It was grafted into the Revell '32 rails. It is packed up in boxes somewhere due to a move, and I'll upload a photo if/when it turns up. If you want something closer to the crossmember in your photo, you would be better off incorporating one from a later Ford kit. As mentioned, a '40 might not be a bad place to start. I would love it if Revell tooled up a frame and suspension closer to what Henry made from the assembly line- transverse rear spring, wishbone suspension etc, and think doing so would sell a lot of kits for people wanting to build something less modern. They could throw in a quick change rear housing and severely dropped beam axle for the front complete with hair pins or split radius rods for the early rod appreciators amongst us

Photo etched buckles and tongues combined with craft ribbon of an appropriate width, or with masking tape painted and cut to width does a convincing job. If the buckles you are modelling are less common, they can be scratchbuilt with styrene and painted. What type of buckle are you looking to replicate for the belts? https://www.modelroundup.com/Photo-Etch-Seatbelts-for-Model-Cars-p/gr-20003.htm https://www.detailmaster.com/products/gr-20004-photo-etch-blue-seatbelt https://www.modelcargarage.com/eshop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=184 ^^ a few options available online Searching up what the particular belts look like on the vehicle you are building should help narrow down the aproach you use.

There are a few approaches, depending on what you are doing while handling those tiny parts: -you can line the tweezers with masking tape doubled over, so they have some stickiness -you can use products like Fun Tak, Glue Dots or masking tape to hold the parts -if you have a supply of old #11 Exacto blades, you can stab the part with the tip of the blade in a non-visible surface, and use the blade handle to position your part for painting or installing -for photo etched parts, plain old Scotch tape can be used to hold them while trimming, and taking some of the stickiness from the tape works well for installing them

How wet did you spray the color on the test piece? Was the test piece styrene, or something more resistant to lacquer solvents? The reason for the questions, just wondering if the solvent in the Duplicolor was activating solvents in the primer coat. Lacquers are a beautiful thing- they adhere by melting into previous coats (be they primer, lighter coats of color etc.) and can smooth out texture in previous coats when color is built up slowly with adequate time for each layer to "gas out.". If the color coats are sprayed too wet on our models, those solvents can make their way down and affect the primer, and even the styrene under that primer. The trick is to build up thin coats slowly rather than flooding the paint on to minimize how those solvents affect previous coats and substrate. If some polishing compound eliminates the problem, it is likely blushing as mentioned in other posts. If there appears to be texture in the paint in certain parts of the piece rather than blushing that smooths out with simple polishing, it may be solvents reacting in the paint and primer, or even solvents that have softened the styrene base material in portions.

OP last visited within a month- here's hoping he sees his thread has been bumped and is willing to restore the images.

The problem is, the thread is 11 years old and something has happened to OP's Fotki links or the albums they were hosted in since it was created. That's not to say something can't go wrong with photos in a current thread, but OP would have to redo the links for these to show again.

Not to critique unnecessarily, but mold seam removal (as mentioned) is an important step in body preparation to get the paint job looking as good as it possibly can. Most examples of this kit I've seen have sink marks or raised areas on the trunk- mold distortion from the posts underneath where the original release screwed down onto the chassis plate. This is pretty common for kits of this vintage (its original release). I have my 40 some-odd year old Prestige issue of this kit tucked away somewhere, and it had two deep sink marks in the trunk lid. I got as far as puttying those and feathering the bodywork, and got distracted by other projects. If they are there on your kit, they don't show as bad as they did on mine. A primer coat helps show areas that require fine-tuning before colour, and helps the top coats adhere better to the base plastic during handling and final assembly. While not every paint type really demands use of a primer, most do benefit from using it. Air brushing takes some experimentation to get the mixture thin enough to minimize texturel yet thick enough not to run. Seeing as how that paint job seems to have laid down pretty nicely for you, if you can get the hood re-spray matching the rest of the body, then it might be worth hitting everything with some clear coat and finishing the build as-is. I am intrigued as to how your colour choice (I like it) will look under clear coat. I'll be following along.