gman

1) start with as many great reference photos of the subject you are building as possible (know your subject) 2) think in terms of what you will need to create as many of those "not in the box" details as possible on your chosen kit 3) collect as many materials as possible (aftermarket, repurposed bits and pieces, spare parts) that will help you replicate those details 4) tackle your build and detailing in a methodical way that allows those extras to be added where they show and won't be messed up by building subsequent parts of the kit A good way to start is by mastering "box stock," and then you can get into adding basic details common to most vehicles, like spark plug wiring, hoses, labels, markings, correct colors as you learn about vehicles in general and the one you are building specifically. As you start to get proficient with those extra details, you can add more and improve kit parts to better replicate the subject. As someone else has mentioned, jumping in with too much extra detail right out of the gate is a good way to stall an otherwise complete-able project and discourage yourself in the process. Pick some extra details you'd like to add to a kit, get it across the finish line, and then think in terms of what else you can add to the next one as you start to learn about that next project and its 1:1 counterpart. Building models is an evolution, so don't expect to super detail one until you are both familiar with the subject and what you can add to the model that will look convincing. One thing I started doing early on was to buy two kits of a subject I was going to build- you can separate and break down parts molded together in the box into single components for detail painting and better realism. Examples of this would be shaving off pieces molded to the firewall and inner fenders like wiper and blower motors, relays, regulators and other underhood details and grafting in parts removed from your second kit after detail painting them. You can do the same with suspension and chassis pieces that were originally molded into one assembly in the box. Another would be breaking down interior or engine components into separate parts and painting them separately before gluing them back together. While I know that buying multiples gets expensive at today's kit prices, you can coax more detail out of a model by doing so. Once you've mastered that, you may find you can scratch build individual parts of the vehicle more convincingly out of styrene stock, metal stock or other materials you have laying around. A good example of this is to replace kit driveshafts with shaped and painted aluminum or brass tubing, and gluing the kit u-joints to your new, perfectly round driveshaft. You can do the same with shock absorbers.

She's pretty. You have great taste in picking an off-the-beaten path subject and bringing it home with a tasteful color palette, not to mention some serious skills.

Wow. Excellent work on this- I am glad you committed to diving in and bringing this build across the finish line.

That may affect the clear styrene (which on a good day right out of the box can be more brittle than non-clear parts). Have you considered testing with something like Novus #2 plastic polish on an area that doesn't show? That may take the tint off and give you a better than box stock shine on the kit glass in one go.

It's beautiful. You've done a great job on the '32.

You could always thin it with inexpensive big box store lacquer thinner- some might say that is the best way to spray Testors enamels.

Enamels have a "re-coat" window- you spray, they (somewhat) cure to the point additional coats can be applied without adverse reactions. Don't confuse enamel curing time with actual drying time. Some enamels may take months and months to fully dry to the point they stand up to handling. Is the primer an enamel? If so, I'd seek out a lacquer primer instead which can be over coated with enamel if you strongly feel you want to use enamels. A lacquer primer will truly dry and do so quickly, and will be able to stand up to the solvents in enamel paints and provide a good foundation.

That looks 100% like it's full sized counterpart in a number of your photos. You've done an exceptional job with this build.

They should be made of material that is resistant to solvents. Most well-stocked hobby shops that sell Paasche airbrushes will be able to set you up with glass bottles and a metal lid/siphon assembly if you prefer.

The issue was 100% corrected for the Del Ray. Early issues of the Nomad had too large an apron behind the bumper, requiring some re-engineering of the apron to get the front bumper in the proper position- I haven't had a re-issue of the Nomad in my hands to compare against the original issue. For someone who has both an early issue and the reissue, it would be interesting to see some photos illustrating the difference in front bumper parts.

Wow. Looks like someone was paying attention in "classic Model A hot rod" school, and then went for bonus points in perfect execution of finishes. I love the green, love the flathead and the megaphone headers. Great job on this.

Why yes- yes you can (I am familiar with your work) I have zero experience with the airbrush OP linked, so I thank you for weighing in. I was thinking about upgrading my airbrush one day, not to replace the old trusty Paasche but to add an extra tool to the tool box. Unfortunately, the one calling to me is somewhat more expensive but I'm hoping the fan pattern does the trick for painting bodies. https://spraygunner.com/airbrush-kits/by-type/gravity-feed/gsi-creos-mr-airbrush-procon-boy-ps-290/ While I won't pull the trigger on one immediately (more of a want vs need), there are a few users here on the forum who seem to like them.

For entry level yet good quality air brushes, look at sets by Badger, Paasche, Iwata. https://spraygunner.com/airbrush/ ^^ this vendor will have some across the whole price spectrum

That link gets you just the air brush- you'll also need a jar, a lid (that holds the siphon tube) a hose and an air source. The kit includes all of those pieces minus the air source, and while it costs more it is a made-in-US product that will withstand some use over many years. https://www.amazon.com/Paasche-Airbrush-Double-Action-Siphon/dp/B08XQHMSQV/ref=sr_1_41?crid=1KDF5MBWVFG4Y&keywords=paasche%2Bvl&qid=1692031158&sprefix=paasche%2Bvl%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-41&th=1

That looks nicer than old Henry's did right off the assembly line. Great job.

"Good" is a relative term. Is the one in your link an affordable air brush? Yes, but how good it is remains to be seen. It looks like a knock-off product. If your budget is truly $40, you won't be able to get an air brush from most of the name brands typically regarded as good quality/entry level. I bought a Paasche VL kit many years ago (early 80's) for $69 and that sucker still works to this day. While there are certainly better air brushes than mine, I have definitely got my money's worth, with the added bonus that if I need a part it is still available and failure of a single part doesn't render it trash. The same Paasche VL is available minus accessories with a #3 tip for not much more than the one in your link: https://www.amazon.com/Paasche-Airbrush-VL-Double-Action/dp/B0935BY6WY/ref=sr_1_7?crid=PC9XLLRJR0SY&keywords=paasche%2Bvl&qid=1692029821&sprefix=paasche%2Bvl%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-7&th=1

Tamiya also offers a 2 part polyester putty with hardener. https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/87097putty/index.htm The last time I bought some EverCoat Eurosoft, I got the smallest can on the store shelves (which is good for many years of model building if the can is sealed up properly and the product is mixed after settling/separating).

There are many lacquer thinners. You'll want to choose one that is designed to work with the lacquer paint you choose, and the conditions you'll be spraying it in. Enamel thinner is not appropriate for use with lacquers. If you go with a pre-thinned (ready to spray) lacquer, you'll only need some hardware store lacquer thinner for clean up of your air brush.

She's pretty- pretty long, pretty low, and pretty looking as an added bonus

The one on the rear panel may stick out enough to paint (dry brush technique). Another approach worth considering is to apply a thin coat of chrome paint to an eraser, let the paint set up for a minute or two and then tamp the painted eraser onto the raised scripts.

Looks great- clear coat, or polish?

The primer stage is looking promising- I am looking forward to seeing some body colour splashed on there. I remember these cars. My Dad even had an older model Consul- it had more curves IIRC than this series, likely late 50's. My uncle had a '68 Lotus Cortina briefly, about the time my Dad was driving his new-for-1972 Cortina.

$79.99 is pretty rich for my blood. IIRC, that Revell '57 convertible kit was a pretty short production run. I was waiting for it to come back, but it never has (yet).

I have been intrigued by the Revell Chrome spray- have tried a number of the alternatives, and will probably grab a can to experiment with when it becomes available locally. FWIW, I believe there is some worth to leaving your thread intact.