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Everything posted by gman

  1. Everything I see so far is incredible. I am staying tuned.
  2. Truly an excellent build. I love the chop, the stance, the powertrain enhancements, the hood mods (to go around the headers), rad support rods. The paint choice is very nice. Your work goes together just right for a nice period look.
  3. That is looking extremely good so far. I was impressed by the 1:1 when that movie came out, and it looks like you are doing that 1:1 justice.
  4. Looks good- try some polish before abrasives
  5. ^^ this. If you are using Testors enamels, they take an extremely long time to fully "dry" beyond just an outer skin on the paint. If there is enough solvent in your second color, this will dissolve that dried skin pretty quickly. A good solution would be to use an acrylic for the amber lens color (such as Tamiya). The solvents shouldn't impact those in the Testors silver, and you can flow enough amber in to simulate a lens.
  6. Man, is this build shaping up to be awesome or what? It is already looking great, and those custom hood sides will take it over the top. I have often eyeballed that Tamiya green, and wondered what it would look good on. Now I know.
  7. The last can I bought was found in Burnaby (BC) years ago. I don't believe I have seen it since. Hobby shops that carry RC car bodies and supplies would be where I would focus the search. https://www.pmhobbycraft.ca/mirror-chrome-paint-aerosol.html Amazon has it too- at more than double the price 😕 https://www.amazon.ca/Spaz-Stix-Ultimate-Aerosol-3-5-Ounce/dp/B0015H1FGA
  8. That chop on the Plymouth sure changes its attitude- looks downright angry (and nice color choice).
  9. Oh no- I have never had this kit in-hand, so no idea what the missing spindles look like. Is it possible to scratchbuild what is missing based on the front + rear you do have?
  10. gman

    1970 Chevelle

    Again with the excellent custom paint work and colour choice that works so well with the model's body lines- clean build. That HoK paint just glows.
  11. That patina paint job sure tells a story. I love how this build turned out.
  12. That sounds like a great kind of happy accident. I love the paint job, looks great. A "parchment" interior with black accents (dash, carpet, parcel shelf) may go very nicely with your custom shade of paint.
  13. ^^ larger photos of the same build, a member here on this forum. I would say that is an excellent burnt orange metallic type of colour, and it looks like it laid down really well for the builder. I like it.
  14. That is looking awesome. The tail light work was well worth your time to nail the OEM + improvements restomod look. I am loving your build so far.
  15. Another beautiful color choice on another well-built model. Kudos.
  16. The way your model sits looks sooooo right. Add in the flathead, whitewalls, target era of the build- I really like what you are doing with this one.
  17. A promising start- it looks like the paint you used laid down very nicely
  18. If the quality of the project yields parts as nice as your other offerings, I would still consider seeing it through!
  19. Yes, that was truly an excellent piece from Norm (as are all of the R&MCoM parts I have every received). Hopefully Norm sees it in his heart to bring that one back.
  20. I have been using Zap A Gap since the 80's, and swear by their CA+ and CA++ formulas. Yes, I keep them in the fridge, and yes I sometimes have glue set up inside the nozzle. I take a wooden tooth pick, clear the passage in the nozzle with it- very carefully, or I find I have a broken wooden toothpick sealing the bottle up permanently. When kept in the fridge tightly capped (it comes in a pill type container, with two caps inner/outer on the actual bottle) the Zap A Gap stays usable for years.
  21. I'll certainly have to get a few of those if they turn up locally.
  22. That doesn't look to be an original '32 Ford center crossmember aka "K" member. I scratchbuilt one for a vintage hot rod project a few years back, using reference photos and breaking it down into simpler shapes that could be built up using laminated strip and sheet styrene. It was grafted into the Revell '32 rails. It is packed up in boxes somewhere due to a move, and I'll upload a photo if/when it turns up. If you want something closer to the crossmember in your photo, you would be better off incorporating one from a later Ford kit. As mentioned, a '40 might not be a bad place to start. I would love it if Revell tooled up a frame and suspension closer to what Henry made from the assembly line- transverse rear spring, wishbone suspension etc, and think doing so would sell a lot of kits for people wanting to build something less modern. They could throw in a quick change rear housing and severely dropped beam axle for the front complete with hair pins or split radius rods for the early rod appreciators amongst us
  23. Photo etched buckles and tongues combined with craft ribbon of an appropriate width, or with masking tape painted and cut to width does a convincing job. If the buckles you are modelling are less common, they can be scratchbuilt with styrene and painted. What type of buckle are you looking to replicate for the belts? https://www.modelroundup.com/Photo-Etch-Seatbelts-for-Model-Cars-p/gr-20003.htm https://www.detailmaster.com/products/gr-20004-photo-etch-blue-seatbelt https://www.modelcargarage.com/eshop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=184 ^^ a few options available online Searching up what the particular belts look like on the vehicle you are building should help narrow down the aproach you use.
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