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Everything posted by gman

  1. There are a few approaches, depending on what you are doing while handling those tiny parts: -you can line the tweezers with masking tape doubled over, so they have some stickiness -you can use products like Fun Tak, Glue Dots or masking tape to hold the parts -if you have a supply of old #11 Exacto blades, you can stab the part with the tip of the blade in a non-visible surface, and use the blade handle to position your part for painting or installing -for photo etched parts, plain old Scotch tape can be used to hold them while trimming, and taking some of the stickiness from the tape works well for installing them
  2. How wet did you spray the color on the test piece? Was the test piece styrene, or something more resistant to lacquer solvents? The reason for the questions, just wondering if the solvent in the Duplicolor was activating solvents in the primer coat. Lacquers are a beautiful thing- they adhere by melting into previous coats (be they primer, lighter coats of color etc.) and can smooth out texture in previous coats when color is built up slowly with adequate time for each layer to "gas out.". If the color coats are sprayed too wet on our models, those solvents can make their way down and affect the primer, and even the styrene under that primer. The trick is to build up thin coats slowly rather than flooding the paint on to minimize how those solvents affect previous coats and substrate. If some polishing compound eliminates the problem, it is likely blushing as mentioned in other posts. If there appears to be texture in the paint in certain parts of the piece rather than blushing that smooths out with simple polishing, it may be solvents reacting in the paint and primer, or even solvents that have softened the styrene base material in portions.
  3. OP last visited within a month- here's hoping he sees his thread has been bumped and is willing to restore the images.
  4. The problem is, the thread is 11 years old and something has happened to OP's Fotki links or the albums they were hosted in since it was created. That's not to say something can't go wrong with photos in a current thread, but OP would have to redo the links for these to show again.
  5. gman

    63 Galaxie

    Not to critique unnecessarily, but mold seam removal (as mentioned) is an important step in body preparation to get the paint job looking as good as it possibly can. Most examples of this kit I've seen have sink marks or raised areas on the trunk- mold distortion from the posts underneath where the original release screwed down onto the chassis plate. This is pretty common for kits of this vintage (its original release). I have my 40 some-odd year old Prestige issue of this kit tucked away somewhere, and it had two deep sink marks in the trunk lid. I got as far as puttying those and feathering the bodywork, and got distracted by other projects. If they are there on your kit, they don't show as bad as they did on mine. A primer coat helps show areas that require fine-tuning before colour, and helps the top coats adhere better to the base plastic during handling and final assembly. While not every paint type really demands use of a primer, most do benefit from using it. Air brushing takes some experimentation to get the mixture thin enough to minimize texturel yet thick enough not to run. Seeing as how that paint job seems to have laid down pretty nicely for you, if you can get the hood re-spray matching the rest of the body, then it might be worth hitting everything with some clear coat and finishing the build as-is. I am intrigued as to how your colour choice (I like it) will look under clear coat. I'll be following along.
  6. I can't guarantee he will, but some of his photo etched sets did come from customer requests/feedback. I have purchased photo etched parts from MCG, S&S Specialties, Detail Master and a few others over the years, and if I wanted someone to make a limited run of some superb quality photo etch pieces for a superb quality resin offering (such as what Mr. Hettick produces), Bob would be my first call. Edit: I can think of a few instances where MCG has partnered with resin casters to offer multimedia sets- some sold through MCG itself, and some sold through Replicas & Miniatures of Maryland. I have purchased some of each.
  7. Tamiya's red oxide spray lacquer primer is a true red oxide should you want another solution: https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/finishing/fine-surface-primer-l-2/
  8. You've done an extremely clean, eye-catching build with this one. Paint choices and execution are excellent. Trimwork is awesome. I love it.
  9. That is shaping up beautifully- nice match on the carpet. Emberglow was one of my favorite 60's Ford colors, and your paint has turned out great.
  10. I am glad you found a little something (and made it back in one piece) I have hit up some non-local hobby shops in my travels, and I usually tend to find something different than what is available locally.
  11. That is beautiful. Well done.
  12. My bad- it wasn't the winter grille, but a custom grille carried over from the Little Deuce version (gone in the most recent versions of that kit).
  13. If memory serves correctly, the 80's issue Monogram 32 Ford roadster kit (the earlier version that retained the up top) had an unplated winter grille on the parts tree.
  14. https://www.facebook.com/Model-Car-Garage-Inc-183380651724877/about/ Have you reached out to Mr. Kurunow? His etching is maybe the best in the business.
  15. The "winter grille." I too like the look of it here. Great looking '32.
  16. Are you going to have a car on your visit? If so, you could hit all three shops within about an hour's drive (not including perusing) if you ran a circuit one-way 😆 1) Imperial Hobbies for sheer number of automotive kits (domestic and Japanese) 2) Burnaby Hobbies for a good selection of unique, hard to get newer kits (mostly domestic, a few Japanese) 3) Magic Box Hobbies for a decent number of desirable kits (depending on what your tastes are) We used to have 6-7 really good hobby shops in the Lower Mainland decades ago, but times for the industry have been tough. I am happy at least these three are hanging in there.
  17. There is Imperial Hobbies near YVR airport- highly recommended. While their website is primarily focused on gaming and fantasy models, they do have a pretty extensive selection of automotive kits, details, parts packs and paints/adhesives. If you venture northeast from Richmond, Burnaby Hobbies is pretty great also. There is Magic Box Hobbies on the west side of Vancouver, also recommended.
  18. I forgot about the Monogram kit- similar era, better chrome QC (provided 1/24th is good for you).
  19. The Revell "Hot Rod" series '29 Ford from 1986 came with a set. The caveat with these is the chrome was usually horrible, with lots of flash on most parts- not a banner period for Revell.
  20. Clear label paper may result in more thickness and a defined edge to your graphics. One advantage to using waterslide decal paper (provided it is compatible with your colour scheme and printer) is a better scale thickness. There are clear and white decal sheets available for both inkjet and laser printers, and the one to use (if you go that way) will depend on how opaque your printed colours are, and whether you need to incorporate white into the graphic. Neither printer type will print white. While there are some expensive and somewhat obsolete printers that do print white, along with metallics etc, if you plan to print your own graphics without that type of equipment water slide decal film will be the usual route. You can experiment with your label paper and see how that turns out for you, but you'll likely want to coat overtop of your graphics with a fixative spray or clear coat if you are using an inkjet printer, so the printed graphics don't wipe off the media when applying or handling.
  21. That looks to be some very fine detail- shaping up very nicely.
  22. That one looks downright angry! I've always loved your builds Tim, dating back to Modeler's Corner in Street Rodder (before I discovered that "other" magazine).
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