gman

Try soaking those parts in some 99% Isopropyl alcohol. It can work with aqueous acrylic paints, as well as some acrylic lacquers (Tamiya), though it may not remove 100% of the paint.

Well, when it comes time to use Mica Red again, try it over Tamiya's new(ish) red oxide primer to get a more maroon metallic tone. As you can tell with your spoon tests, the undercoat does affect how this semi-transparent paint looks in the end. 'Stude looks great BTW. I wouldn't change a thing.

Improperly chroming suspension parts on 1:1 vehicles can cause something called "hydrogen embrittlement," where hydrogen gets trapped under the chrome and causes the underlying metal to fatigue and crack/break/fail without warning. There is a technique used by proper manufacturers and platers to eliminate or reduce this phenomenon, which involves heating and baking the parts after chroming to reduce stresses and restore the elasticity of the metal components to avoid failure. A "chrome job on the cheap" for suspension components carries some risk, but parts manufacturers who take this into consideration can supply reliable chrome parts that hold up for a hot rod that gets driven. That would be true for shock mounts, hair pin radius rods, axles, springs- pretty much any suspension component that needs to be strong, elastic and hold up to torsional stresses to properly do its job.

That would probably take some serious doing- if you have the skills, I'd say go for it. https://mcwfinishes.com/shop/ols/products/1965-ford-fairlane-500-sports-coupe I don't know if one of these (if they ever come back in stock) would get you where you'd want to be. Another caster offered a 2d sedan as well.

Having walked many miles in a moderator's shoes on another forum (unrelated to this hobby), I know it is a thankless role that can generate strong feelings on all sides. Hopefully the build thread can get back on track with no additional issues.

I look forward to following your content when the dust has settled. I too had to do some digging to figure out what happened- hang in there, and don't be shy about your build thread updates. I'll be waiting to see what excellent craftmanship you've come up with next.

Impressive work- love it...here is to an end to the slump!

You may want to pick up some Tamiya Insignia Red and Hull Red, experiment with mixing the two to get your desired shade. It looks like Portola red has a reddish-brown component. If you want to stay with Testors, you could add some of their Leather and possibly a bit of black to the mix to dial in something closer.

I have used SEM interior paints- "hot" stuff, may react with primer or unusually soft styrene.

Happy to see that- looking forward to your updates.

Limefire is one of my favourite 32 roadsters, so the updates to Revell's '32 sounds intriguing. Your next build does too.

Why yes- yes it does

Well, they gave you a really fine metallic particle size, which looks right at home in 1/25th scale. Great colour. Thank you for the info.

Being a Jeep guy, I am familiar with that shade- it looks great on a Jeep, and looks great on your Mopar build as well. Did you use a can of Mopar touch up spray, or was it colour matched airbrush paint? It looks like it laid down very nicely for you, and was thinking about using that colour on a :gulp: '37 Ford build in the future.

If aftermarket is an option for you, Replicas & Miniatures of Maryland's finned Buick brake drums make a great addition to a hot rod model:

You could try a bath of 99% Isopropyl alcohol to remove the paints, but it will depend on what type of clear was used.

I agree- good looking colour, should pop under some clear. The bulls eyes on the body are from the mold, and are present on all the examples I have here. Some sanding before primer/paint makes them disappear.

There was one, way back when Revell first released the kit (about 31 years ago). It was made by Performance Detail Products, and was very comprehensive for that period, but wouldn't hold a candle to a set Model Car Garage would produce if BK had an appetite to do one :hint hint: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/performance-detail-products-1964-ford-t-bolt-factory-super-stock--1288146 It is long out of production, and I missed one of these when it popped up on eBay a few months back ?

I love the turquoise, and really love the colour on it's carson-topped sibling. Both look like great builds.

That cuts a mean profile- I like what I see so far, will be watching what comes next. I bought the Wagonrod kit when it was a new release, and always envisioned it with the '37 to '39 Ford headlight treatment as a fix to the look as it comes out of the box.

I really like the vision you had for this project, and for seeing it through to the finish line. Excellent build.

That is looking really good.

It has been many years since I used it, but I believe the basic Tamiya putties are solvent-based. You should be able to tell by the smell released during curing. They also make an epoxy putty, a polyester catalyzed putty, and a light curing putty. Their solvent-based putties can be softened by hotter automotive lacquers and the solvents they contain. I have been using 2 part Evercoat Eurosoft polyester putty for years. Much like other catalyzed putties, it makes a big stink while curing (think 2 part Bondo filler), but once cured it responds well to rough shaping shortly after curing, and feathers nicely on full cure. Unlike solvent based putty, it can be worked in minutes after application. Once cured/sanded, it is impervious to solvents. What I don't like about the Evercoat is the smell, and the size of the container (many years worth). It may be a good idea to try the Tamiya polyester putties for use under automotive lacquers, as they come in a small tube you can try before committing to a big can of something more economical per ounce. If you get the urge to try the Evercoat, seeing as you are a fellow British Columbian, you can find it at Lordco. It comes with a tube of hardener, and once that is done you can use single tubes sold for use with plastic body filler.

Your work looks excellent so far, as do your colour choices. If your paint is lacquer based, the solvents on each successive coat are what chemically binds one coat (primer/colour/clear) to the next. You can normally dust lacquer primer on, and apply thin coats of lacquer colour over bodywork, but if the clear goes on relatively wet that melting action of the solvent in your clear can reach down and activate previous coats, disturbing everything down to the filler (especially if you used something that is also solvent based for filler). In the case of your resin body, at least it won't etch the body itself, like it could over styrene. ^^ the caption for this photo doesn't get into what type of filler you used, but if it emits a solvent smell when curing and shrinks after application, there is a good chance it is solvent-based, and could be affected by solvents in lacquer overcoats if they don't have enough time to gas out. I can't tell from your photos, but hopefully the ghosting is something that another thin coat of clear (after ample cure time for what has been sprayed already) will cover.

Exactly- depending on what you want your red top coat to look like, Tamiya's pink (or white) primer may give the top coat more "pop." A test, with red sprayed over sprue, white, pink, grey and red oxide primers should show you how the undercoat affects your paint, and how many colour coats will be required to get the final shade you are after with minimal coats applied.