gman

That looks great- should accent all the work in that interior nicely.

They both look very good to me, nice job :thumbup:

So late 60's Fords will be candidates. I believe the automatic in the Fairlane kits represents a Sportshift Cruise-o-matic (C6) transmission. The one in the Revell Thunderbolt is likely a Lincoln automatic that was hung behind the big block 427. http://www.compresins.com/site/751597/product/CRC-160 ^^ if an aftermarket resin piece interests you, may be cheaper than coming up with a kit with a suitable transmission to pilfer

What are you building? That may yield a clue as to what sort of kit to raid for a suitable automatic transmission ;).

I could certainly see a use for those, even if Alclad II and Molotow might make for a better chrome look. The bright silver and even the chrome would be suited for an aluminum look (natural vs polished).

I bought up a good supply years ago when a local hobby shop was going out of business, before those paints first became scarce in Canada. I got a spray can of Aluminum Plate buffing metalizer south of the border in Washington State a while back (likely old stock). While there hasn't been too much buzz on them, I believe Gunze Sangyo makes some lacquer buffing metal colours as well- http://www.mr-hobby.com/en/itemDetail.php?iId=137 I only have one hobby shop relatively nearby that carries the Mr. Color lacquer line, and those are on my list to try. What has put me off is minimal English on the paint rack and bottles, so I know what I am getting and have an idea of how to use them. I used the Humbrol Metalcote tins many years ago, but when Testor's launched their Metalizer series of paints I never looked back as they gave superior results to Humbrol's metal shades. It is a shame Testors Metalizers are discontinued.

https://www.burnabyhobbies.net Dave is the owner- great guy. I have been going there since the 80's (when his father ran the shop). I was in the shop yesterday, and spied several bottles of metalizer in the rack- about 60% occupied. https://www.burnabyhobbies.net/contact-us https://www.hotrod.com/articles/16042-1931-ford-model-a-coupe/ ^^ Dave's ride

What colours are you after? I know a hobby shop on the we(s)t coast that still has certain shades of Model Master Metalizer in-stock, but you'd have to call and see if they would be willing to ship...provided they have what you are after.

Agreed- clean your parts with dishwashing detergent, you can further hit it with some isopropyl alcohol, then let dry somewhere where dust won't be an issue. A good primer before paint will help get you better results. Look into Tamiya Fine Surface Primer- great stuff, but expensive. Automotive primers can work well too, but keep the coats light if you go that route to prevent the hotter solvents from attacking or etching your styrene.

Holy sleepers, Batman! I didn't see that engine and drivetrain coming. Great stance, use of color- well done.

Wow! Now those are great looking finishes.

That turned out beautifully. Well done.

If you want a stock type of suspension that is lowered, the dropped axles from the AMT '55 and '57 stepsides will lower the '55 and '57 Cameos moderately out of the box (and they can be massaged to lower it a little more). If you want maximum drop and a restomod feel, you can graft the front clip from any number of other kits combined with lowering blocks and a c-notch out back, or use an aftermarket style Mustang II IFS up front, and a 4 link out back as found in some hot rod kits- Revell's '37 Ford sedan, cabrio or coupe street rod kits come to mind as a source that might be adapted to work. https://web.ipmsusa3.org/content/37-ford-coupe-street-rod

You are correct. He gets very nice results without clear, and IIRC uses automotive enamels for many of his paint jobs.

There are some stunning black finishes in this thread. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/profile/9892-lovefordgalaxie/ ^^ this forum member has produced a number of great black finishes (heck, a number of great finishes in general) also

Looks like you pulled a "win" there. Glad it worked out. That looks to be a nice build.

Whoah! This is going to be excellent. I really like what you've done so far. Looking forward to seeing what that looks like under clear coat.

That is a first class '41-'48 mashup there. It's got a clean early custom look to it, turned out great.

Care to post up a photo? As Leslie mentions, the angle of spray, as well as the pattern you lay the paint down with, and even the total number of coats can affect whether things like hoods and doors match with the rest of the bodywork. Some colors and paint types (like silvers, metallics and pearls) are harder to make match from panel to panel unless they are all sprayed in their correct orientation at the same time. Adding some final paint coats with doors and hood mounted and shut might increase the opacity of your color coats, and allow things to blend better.

That is looking really slick. The Fordor, the Ardun, the color choices, the stance, the workmanship- loving it so far.

The finished project looks really good. That turned out extremely nicely.

That looks like it will be a mean little beast. I'll stay tuned.

Not my photo, borrowed from this thread: ^^ if you are talking about the horizontal body side molding running front to back above the wheels, try a pack of sanding sticks. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Flex-I-File-525-Flex-Pad-Into-Set-Finishing-Sanding-Polishing-Hobby-Craft/232923298661?hash=item363b4f7b65:g:Zc0AAOSweW5VAGba ^^ these sanding sticks are really good, and the assortment pack has grits from rough to ultra fine. You can lay some masking tape above and below the trim you want to remove, and work on removing the trim starting with the course stick and progressing through finer grits. You may have to re-scribe door lines a little bit after trim is removed. You can use the back of a #11 hobby blade to clean up door lines where the trim was- go easy.

Thanks- I suspected that may be Createx based on some of your other projects. Good to know it glosses up under Testors clear. I'll be watching your project come together, nice clean work (as always).

Looking good. What are you using for color and clear coats?