gman

I love your building style- hard to beat a period Duece, and the black paint/red accents and period correct mill certainly contribute to "the look." The up top is icing on the cake.

You will usually be safer using an automotive primer (likely lacquer) with your choice of top coats than using a flat hobby paint (likely enamel) and rolling the dice. I would suggest saving hobby enamel for use with other hobby enamels from the same paint line only. As others have mentioned, test. Test on plastic spoons for compatibility between primer and base coats.Test the kit plastic for compatibility with the primer- some of the newer kits have plastic that reacts to lacquer primers, and to complicate matters, there are kits from years ago that suffer the same problem. I would keep all primer coats to light mist coats, building up coverage over time with sufficient time for the coats to gas out, to avoid etching the kit plastic. Once you have a good primer base, sand & smooth out problem areas. Wait for things to fully dry out before adding color coats, to avoid trapping solvents that can attack plastic and affect your finish. A good lacquer automotive primer will shrink when fully cured, can be smoothed out, and will stand up to most paints you want to use for color.

Holy smokes- that turned out beautifully.

https://public.fotki.com/crstan/replican-and-miniat/replicas-and-miniat/1545576896842.html ^^ another option

It is a very realistic finish for it, thanks for sharing.

This build is so up my alley- period early Ford hot rod build. I really like your work (so far), choice of parts, and choice of colors. I only got one copy each of the '29 roadster and '30 coupe when they were out, and then they became "unobtainium." Lucky for me, have a few of the old Monogram Model A coupes, AMT roadsters and a stockpile of Deuces to ponder for when some building time presents. That R&MCoM SCoT is a great piece too, was lucky to snag one. I'll be watching your build come together with interest. What finish did you use on the supercharger?

I'd be happy to add that technique- thanks for explaining. The finished seats look very interesting.

Agreed- both kits look great. I've admired Rescue Green on Jeep JKs, and never imagined it on a '40...that works extremely well.

Agreed- very nice work so far. That is an interesting treatment for the seats- do you mind sharing how you got that effect?

If you find a hobby shop that stocks that Testors spray, if they also carry Tamiya's TS line it might be worth comparing to see if something matches (far superior paint). For airbrush, there are a few hobby-oriented paint suppliers that will sell exact match OEM colors too. Try Scalefinishes, MCW, Zero and see if they will mix up some for you in hobby size. http://www.scalefinishes.com/2002Mustang.html

This kit, and its 1955 cousins were very much wanted for years before AMT tooled up for them. Apart from poor window fit and some door frame shape issues on the '55, great kits.

https://encycolorpedia.com/8d1b1f ^^ this would suggest Testors 1204 Red would be close, should you want an enamel hobby paint. It also lists other auto manufacturer's paint codes which are in the ballpark.

That's what happens when Stacey David forgets to park it inside for a few winters Nice weathered Roaster!

Great skills are great skills, irrespective of the chosen type of subject matter. The finished build is beautiful. I'll stay tuned for the next automotive build.

Crack, another ball over the fence and straight outta the park! She's a beauty. Reminds me of a blue '68 I tried to buy when I was 13. My dad vetoed the sale (but I've had a soft spot for those ever since)

Don't know if this helps- would have embedded images, but they are copywrited: https://www.modelroundup.com/1953-Ford-F-100-Coca-Cola-Pickup-p/amt-r2-1144.htm

Great looking MOPAR. That stance suggests "it's go-time!" I like your build.

^^ this member's thread states his MOPAR was painted with TS-94, another great job with Tamiya spray.

That interior (and its woodgrain pattern) looks great.

That is the thing with automotive model subjects- much like aircraft, armour- any other subject- the vehicle being modelled has a life and a history. One can build showroom stock (depicting a vehicle early in it's history), or as something that has been modified (think "day 2" build), rebuilt/restored to any number of standards. As long as the builder is consistent with the goal, there isn't necessarily anything wrong/incorrect. I like this build, the efforts and craftmanship so far, and will be watching. Excellent work. Sometimes, as many of the accomplished builders on the forum prove, the overall look of the finished model says as much about realism as does sweating the small details that aren't as readily seen. To quote Steven Guthmiller on here, it is easy to have a build "become a 'rabbit hole' that I can't get out of." His work speaks for itself. Getting a model looking right and finished is preferable to having a bunch of partially completed projects stalled in boxes, and I suspect enough of us have a few of those.

I had a tub of the Evercoat Eurosoft polyester glazing putty that served me well for many years. It would separate if unused, so I'd mix it back up with a large screwdriver before putting what I'm going to use onto a disposable plastic container lid, adding hardener and mixing for application. The last one I bought is Evercoat "Lite Weight," which I like a little better...it has a better consistency for using on small model parts and bodies. Both of these products sand well when cured and require very little effort to be ready for primer.

It is good to have a few options handy on the bench. For little jobs and corrections, superglue or thick primer is a quick fix. For more drastic work, a few different putty options are good to have. I used to use Squadron green and white putties many years ago, but unless used very sparingly those can affect the surrounding styrene, and not in a good way.

That is a beautiful shade, and your paintwork looks great on the body of that Plymouth. It is always a treat to see what you are going to post next- both the vehicle, and your chosen shade.

I've had good luck with polyester glazing putty- a 2 part putty that can be put on thin, dries by chemical reaction rather than solvent evaporation. I've used Evercoat (and you can get a large container that will last years), but Tamiya makes one in hobby sizes as well. If you go this route, you'll want to rough up the area it will be applied to so it doesn't peel up or peel off. When done this way, it sands and feathers beautifully after curing (which can be sped up or slowed down by controlling how much hardener you add). http://www.evercoat.com/putty/us/ https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/87027/index.htm If you prefer a solvent based glazing putty, check out tubes from Bondo in your local automotive section. Just don't put the solvent based putties on heavy, as they can soften styrene and shrink or crack after sanding. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bondo-Glazing-and-Spot-Putty-00907ES-4-5-oz-1-Tube/16927984

If you want to replicate the velour cloth look, a matt base coat close to your desired color followed by some complimentary pearl flake mixed into some clear (mid) coats, topped with matt clear might capture the sheen of the fabric.