gman

Tamiya makes a pink (fine) primer, as well as a white (ultra fine) primer. Spoon tests will tell you which effect pops more, but I suspect the pink will do so with less color coats. Shooting TS 59 over a red base coat will darken the final color, shift the hue. I've seen Tamiya dark red oxide and pink primers show up in hobby shops in Canada, and have been waiting to try some. If they are anything like the older grey and white primers in their lines, should be good products.

Thank you. I may have a can of that around already- looks like a natural for your "A."

Digging that orange paint. Your model is really coming along. What did you spray it with?

If you have a craft store nearby, odds are that they will have some fine nylon ribbon of an appropriate size that will work with photo etched GM-style buckles.

A call to Norm might set the record straight if there are still some available. Looks to be a nice product.

Very helpful tutorial. For results as good as yours, that perfectly glass-smooth paint under the foil sure adds to the appearance of the finished foil work. Good quality foil helps too, I'm sure. I've had a few sheets of BMF that had a pebbly texture even when applied over paint that was polished to the limit. No amount of buffing would eliminate it either- think the BMF adhesive could have been part of the problem. I've had the opposite problem too, with sheets that wouldn't stick and would come right off clean, unwaxed paint during trimming. I'll have to borrow your tape technique and practice some more.

That is affirmative (zoomed in on the smaller font top center of page). That is the first piece I've seen from an Alps printer, and the quality looks pretty impressive. Very crisp.

Using a spouse's "good" set of clippers for modelling work can be hazardous to your health...ask me how I know ;).

If you have remnants of sprue on rounded parts (like wheel rims), a variety of nail clippers with different curvatures work really well to trim those flush with the edge. They work well on photo etched parts, too.

I have some #11 saw blades I use for removing certain parts from the sprue, as well as an Atlas Snap Saw for some tasks as well. In combination with a dedicated sprue cutter, nothing wrong with having a variety of tools for the task at hand. https://www.micromark.com/Saw-Blade-010x40-TPI-Package-of-4 ^^ something like these but a different brand, think X Acto made mine.

There are some benefits to a good sprue cutter- you get a nice, precision cut that requires minimal clean up with an Exacto and files. I bought one of this brand for under $30 years ago, money well spent.

Looks to be about 27-28 PSI in those tires... (will look more natural when there is a whole car sitting on them :D) Nice work so far.

I originally included a link to the review of the latest reissue, but must have deleted it.

The engine they include has some issues with the valve covers being correct for a big block, but seeing as how the subject matter is engineered more for a period look than 100% scale fidelity, I can forgive those issues. The original version of this kit was one of the first model car subjects I ever completed, so it holds a special place in my heart. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_big-block_engine You could probably call it a 396 or 427 and be close enough, based on the period it was originally issued.

Snarky! I encountered a few V8 Pintos on the street in my time, but none as obvious or well-dressed as that one. Well done.

That turned out really nicely. Looking good, staying tuned for more pictures once the clear is applied.

If you don't need the contoured Thrush "Cherry Bomb" style glass packs, Model Car Garage did the Smithy's style glass packs in turned aluminum, and they are very nice. They seem to be discontinued, but there is a set on eBay right now. https://www.ebay.com/itm/The-Model-Car-Garage-MCG-404-Smitty-Cans-Mufflers/383006688367?hash=item592cfa446f:g:PcIAAOSwThddBA6B

GMP sells 1/18 wheels and tires meant to upgrade diecasts, should the scale difference not matter so much. https://www.diecast.org/diecast98/html/asp/list_reviews/xq/ASP/manufacturer.gmp/classificationx.576865656C202620546972652053657473/searchScale.1:18/qx/reviewresults.htm Some may be appropriate for an early Ford.

You want 4 the same diameter/depth, or big & littles? If the latter, AMT's drag set is nicely done. https://public.fotki.com/funman1712/first-look-at-all-n/new-amt-gasser-whee/new-amt-gasser-whee/dsc-0402.html Pic courtesy of Tim

Beautiful paint jobs. I would love to see all of these cross the finish line.

Not even taking into consideration all that went in to creating your master, that is an artfully completed model in its own right. On the topic of the master, that looks better than most kit offerings, when you take things like overall proportions into consideration. Absolutely beautiful, and compares well to the 1:1 subject. I have seen some of your other creations, and it would be an understatement to say you have quite an eye for detail. I hope that will be a home run for you that rewards you for all of your efforts.

That has a good look- paint looks nice, as does the stance. Well worthy of bringing across the finish line

https://www.ebay.ca/i/223845249504?ul_noapp=true ^^ there is one on the 'bay right now (no idea as to the condition in the open box) I had a set of those back in the 80's on my 1:1 ride. They were uncoated aluminum. An afternoon with some Mother's Polish and a whole lot of elbow grease made them shine like chrome, and they stayed that way for years.

A few of the older issue ('79-'81) MPC El Caminos and El Diablos had those wheels: The MPC Monte Carlo had them as well: I suspect the Mustang kits that had them may be easier to find today for a reasonable price.

^^ I can echo this sentiment. Your model is looking really good, a whole bunch of touches to make things look just right.