gman

Good to know. I have used the Tamiya Fine White, Fine and regular Grey, and now the new Red Oxide. Love Tamiya primers, though have picked up some of the Stynylrez primer to try. Got a few panels sprayed out and was impressed, at least until my airbrush malfunctioned. I think the issue is ironed out now, and will have Stynylrez round II in the near future.

Being from the frozen north, I am mostly interested in the BC plates. The vanity, passenger car and truck series look close enough for my purposes. They are a decent starting point, and those well-versed in Photoshop could probably fine tune things further, either from one of the online license plate generators, or from a stock internet photo or one's own photo. Much easier than photo-reducing your own with a 35mm camera like I did in the old days. Print out your chosen generated or Photoshopped plate on photo paper, emboss characters from behind for raised details and install.

Tamiya has a new pink primer that can be used to intensify red color coats as well.

https://www.acme.com/licensemaker/licensemaker.cgi?state=California&text=186+CGA&plate=1969&r=958110045 Here is the oher site I mention, for reference.

Stop me if this one is old news- I was reviewing older bookmarked sites for license plates, and found some usability issues with one I had used previously. I came across this site: http://platesmania.com/us/informer http://platesmania.com/ca/informer They have plates for the UK as well.

That looks really good so far. One of these days, I'll have to try some 2K clear. You have achieved an excellent finish with it. The lack of interior steps is something that has always bothered me about this kit, and if it can be addressed at this stage, it will only make your build better.

Nicely done- that paint is beautiful. Add some nice period custom touches like the chrome wheels, exhaust cutouts, grille insert and some stance, and that amounts to a great build in my book.

For that price, hard to go wrong (as long as it works on arrival).

That is a great looking build of a great looking car. Nice job on this!

That is turning out very nice- well executed custom touches, paint and flame job. I too am appreciating Josephine. Great work on both so far.

Glass bottles (really old stock) or plastic bottles? I had some of the early Alclad in glass bottles, that came with small stainless BBs in the bottle for mixing purposes. I quickly found the point where vigorous mixing crosses the line into too vigorous. The bottle cracked, sending the contents streaming down my arm. While inserting a small stainless BB or two can work in the glass bottles provided you don't go crazy shaking them up, this technique works even better with the newer plastic bottles Alclad seems to come with now. In fact, it works well with most paint. The electric paint mixers sold by Badger (and even the Chinese knock-offs) work well also. As for shelf life, I have had enamels and lacquers that are more than 20 years old but remained properly sealed in their bottles or spray cans work just fine. As a disclaimer, this doesn't apply to the newer Testors lacquers in spray cans, which seem to leak out the bottom to the point there is no more propellant or binders inside the can. I would try shaking up your Alclad and doing a test spray before running out and replacing what you have.

I can confirm that isopropyl alcohol will ruin Tamiya lacquer paint jobs ? I laid out a 2 tone paint job on some interior panels, and after spraying the second color and lifting the masking tape, it left a bunch of adhesive behind...I broke some of my trusty 70% isopropyl alcohol out (used many times over enamel 2 tone schemes), and began to swab off the residue. Much to my surprise, it took the lacquer off with the residue. I avoid inexpensive masking tape like the plague now, and life has gotten much simpler. I have used naptha (lighter fluid) to remove masking tape residue, but not over Tamiya lacquers. Tape residue gets harder to remove as it ages, so I would suggest trying whatever you use on something that doesn't matter before using it on a paint job you don't want to strip. The milder the solution, the better. Dilution is an option, but will reduce the effectiveness of a solvent in removing the residue also.

That is a killer build- backdated the Hemi that comes with the 5 window with valve covers from RMCoM? I really like it, great job.

That vehicle has really grown on me in the years since the majority of them disappeared from the road. Your paint looks great (as always). Thank you for sharing your work.

That is a beautiful shade of paint on your build- great job.

Beautiful build, from a master builder. Thank you for sharing your work here.

My original applicator had a bend incident as well, but :knocks on wood: it still works fine. In spite of the issues mentioned in this thread, I love it, and found it to come in really handy. When just a few drops of strategically applied liquid cement is called for, or you need to apply a thin bead along a seam, it is hard to beat the Touch N Flow. I have some syringes in the tool kit as well, but have yet to need to break them out. Would it be bad form to put in a plug for Tenax 7R in this thread? A great liquid cement that happens to work extremely well with the Touch N Flow applicator ;). Tenax 7R was hard to find locally up here in the frozen north for some time, but a nearby hobby shop is importing it again.

Use care with epoxy- you can end up with strings of dried glue where you don't want it if you have to reposition your parts. Thankfully, they can be removed after the glue sets. A little goes a long way.

Having owned a 1:1 MGB, I am liking your build. I always liked those lines, and they look great on your model.

The paint looks great. I am afraid white glue won't hold parts together securely. For adhesive, you have lots of options- where you have joints that won't show, 5 minute epoxy (where you need a little time to get things into position before setting) is a good choice. You can use a drop of super glue in some locations, with the understanding that large amounts will fog paint and windows. Zap A Gap CA + or CA ++ works particularly well, and is thick enough not to run into places you don't want it to go. For some parts, small amounts of liquid cement will work- consider something like a Touch N Flow applicator on the back of your joints (where accessible) to avoid getting more glue than you bargained for onto your parts. I like Tenax 7R for a fast setting glue.

While trends may come and go, your work on these has held up nicely. Think of them as a little snapshot of that time- I see the odd snapshot in the form of period-built cars and trucks from various periods from the 50's to relatively recent on the street, being enjoyed. While some styles come back around, we may have to wait a while for this trend to return, but a nice build is a nice build.

It can be- if you store it capped in the tube it ships in, it has a fighting chance. If you allow styrene dust to get into the large end of the applicator (and that stuff can travel), no bueno. If you allow styrene residue to linger on the tip to the point it hardens, also no bueno. My bought my first Touch N Flow maybe 30 years ago, and it lasted many years. I eventually lost the cap for its tube, and it got clogged up with sanding dust solidifying inside the tube. The liquid glue dissolved these particles, partially clogging it inside the tube. It took some doing to get it to flow again. I bought a second one, saving it for when my first applicator no longer works. I find that flowing any residual cement out, back into the bottle, or onto a piece of card stock and then wiping the tip down will keep it working properly for a long time. If you are unlucky enough to have the tip plug, standing it in an open bottle of liquid cement for an extended period may get it working again.

I love my Touch N Flow applicator.

There is a Tamiya thinner that would likely work: https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/87194/index.htm This is what I would be inclined to use to thin Mr. Surfacer: http://www.mr-hobby.com/en/itemDetail.php?iId=158

Agree with all of the comments so far. That pearl red looks fantastic on the Jaguar body.