gman

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Scale-Motorsport-9020-1-25-Billet-Thrust-3D-Printed-Front-Wheel-Set-1/112183970183?epid=1666309659&hash=item1a1eaf8987:g:v9kAAOSwN2VZVZpF https://www.ebay.com/itm/Scale-Motorsport-9021-1-24-Billet-Thrust-3D-Printed-Rear-Wheel-Set-1/192027518094?epid=1866230134&hash=item2cb5bb648e:g:1~sAAOSwAO9ZVZpP ^^ there is always eBay

I bought mine at a local hobby shop, and did not order from Scale Motorsport.

A Pyrex measuring cup will take boiling in the microwave well.

These are pretty great sets- big and little: https://www.scalemotorsport.com/3d-printed-torque-thrust-wheel-set-1-bigs-341.html https://www.scalemotorsport.com/3d-printed-billet-wheel-set-1-littles.html The price is not for the feint of heart and they don't include tires, but they are very nicely made.

To avoid the issues you mention, ideally you would wet sand the defect(s) out, smooth out the rest of the paint as best you can, then re-coat the entire model with enough light coats of color to ensure an even finish that hides any discoloration present from sanding out the defect.

You can also use Evergreen or Plastruct hexagonal rod stock- slice a piece the thickness of your fitting, use a pin vise and drill bit to center up a hole in the hex fitting, insert your brake line after painting.

Not related to the kit question, but I knew this looked familiar. https://www.fantomworks.com/project/1970-chrysler-300/ I am old enough to remember those cars, but in my neck of the woods they were pretty scarce. The link above may have some reference photos/video.

Try expanding the email address of the sender to see where it really originates from- many times spoofed email will resolve to a totally different address as shown in your inbox.

Very realistic upholstery pattern- striking color combination. Well done!

Did you use the Scale Finishes lacquer, or their gloss enamel base coat?

I am sorry that happened- what clear did you use?

It IS a fancy spray can. One night I was perusing youtube airbrushing and painting videos, and there were a few 2K clear two-part paints in a can (like this one) being talked about. I am intrigued by the possibility, but after OP's pictures am a little leery to put all of that work into a model to have the product not perform properly.

It suggests there is a separate compartment in the can that has to be activated after initial shaking to mix the separated components (the hardener part) inside the can for use. I was trying to post a link to the user .pdf from the manufacturer's website, but it posts as an image of the page header. spraymax.com/fileadmin/user_upload/Downloads/Produkte/Prospekte/992466-SprayMax-Produktfolder_USA.pdf ^^ try this with "www." inserted in front of the text to read manufacturer's instructions

Enamel is fully cured or gassed out when it no longer smells of solvent and is hard all the way through. It usually dries on the outer surface or skin, and takes a loooooong time to cure all the way to the base plastic or paint- this can take weeks for thin coats, to practically forever for thick coats. Ironically, it usually takes relatively thick coats to get a smooth surface on an enamel paint job. Was the two part clear mixed and shaken exactly as directed? The surface of your cleared model almost looks like the two components of the clear were not completely mixed with one another during application over the enamel. That is one of the reasons I have not taken the plunge with the new 2K type clears.

The old Testors glosscote could cover enamel- as mentioned, best over fully cured enamel. I shot a '29 Ford in Testors enamel orange many years ago, and pushing the envelope covered it with glosscote just after the thin coats of enamel tacked up. I was expecting a science experiment of a paint job to result, but it had no adverse effects. It wasn't as shiny as it could have been, but no cracking, clouding, nothing. I have used the newer Testors Wet Look clear (which are IMHO a big improvement over older Testors clears for gloss and the ability to polish out), but have only sprayed them over Testors and Tamiya lacquers. I would do a spoon test over your chosen enamel before spraying a whole model with it, but wouldn't anticipate it being too "hot" to use if the enamel has cured and fully gassed out. It might be worth a shot at this point.

What are you painting? How large an area? Spray, brush, airbrush?

I wonder if Testors Wet Look clear would cover without issue- try on some scrap plastic painted with Krylon before shooting the model.

Very nice. It makes me want to head to the local hobby shop and buy three kits.

I will have to remember that- Krylon Almond looks like a nice color that will be at home with a number of exterior colors. It looks good here.

This is one of those products that will lose the chrome effect if you clear coat (using the usual suspects). Searching the forum and interwebz will turn up some clear coat products that don't dull the chrome effect as much, but it would be preferable to airbrush the Molotow chrome, let it cure, and then avoid unnecessary handling.

Considering that this one fought you (with some lessons learned along the way), it looks pretty good in the end.

https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCNEH ^^ they show a pearl yellow in spray https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LXCNEF&P=7 ^^ an orange pearl as well https://www.hobbylinc.com/testors-model-master-pearl-orange-gloss-1:2-oz-hobby-and-model-enamel-paint-2776 ^^ and many other colors that may or may not be the same as the old "Colors By Boyd" line in bottles Most "big box" stores that sell hobby paints, and many smaller hobby shops that don't carry the full line of Testors enamels don't seem to have these.

Are you talking about enamel spray cans? They had Aluma Coupe Yellow and Roadstar Florida Orange- both were pearl enamel paints, but that Colors By Boyd line was discontinued. I believe some of those colors have been relabelled and are integrated into the line of enamel spray and jar paints and can be found at hobby retailers that stock the entire line, with newer colors launched in their series of lacquers.

Yes, the rubber bumpers started in '75, though some might say "74 1/2" depending on when their vehicle hit the dealer network and got registered. https://classiccars.com/listings/view/1110355/1974-mg-mgb-for-sale-in-rye-new-hampshire-03870 Most '74s sold in North America had big, heavy rubber overriders on chrome bumpers as illustrated on the one in the link. Many owners replaced them with the 1973 and earlier style bumper overriders. After years of looking for the right chrome bumper MGB, I bought an '80 MGB that I had for almost a decade. '80 was technically the last year, though some got titled as '81s. While it had the big rubber bumpers and jacked up ride height compared to the earlier cars, luckily many of the bugs were worked out by the end of production, and it was actually a pretty reliable car. I got used to the rubber bumpers (hated by purists) and miss mine terribly. Great job on the kit, brings back some memories.That color is very close to one used on MGBs from the period. The kit can be used to build a '75-'80 MGB (or '74 1/2 to '81 depending on who you ask), but there were minor tweaks through the later production runs of the 1:1, with different interior styles and carburetor configurations. You'd have to decide what year the kit best approximates out of the box unless you want to do some scratch building.