gman

Nice start. Looking forward to seeing it under some clearcoat.

The whole thing looks very impressive- nice, clean work.

You can also attach the part to a larger piece of masking tape with the tab to be removed near the edge- use the tape as a handle, and as something to stiffen the thin photo etched part while trimming or filing/sanding.

You can use curved precision scissors, or a sprue cutter. On some shapes, a nail clipper will do the job as well.

That would work great for this style clamp: The Detail Master hose clamps are pretty good too. http://www.detailmaster.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Return_Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=detailmaster&Category_Code=DM-PhotoEtchedParts&Product_Code=DM-2480 Curve around a rod the same diameter as your hose to shape it, cut to fit, glue a strip of styrene tube on to represent the screw, then hit the screw with Molotow or paint of your choice.

You are on the right track. Instead of rod, you could use Evergreen quarter round of the right general size, and mount it flat-side facing up using something like Tenax 7r glue. Once everything has had a chance to set up good and solid, gently run a panel scriber along it from the top (to make the rain gutter's trough), and it should look pretty convincing under some primer and paint...better than out of the box.

That is relatively far. I use a mail service south of the border for packages from the US when shipping is cost prohibitive. They usually charge a flat rate of something like $2 to receive, hold the package, and notify when it comes in. I am closer to the border, so it isn't too big a deal to drive down and pick up packages in-person. There are mail services that will receive packages and also forward them on to a Canadian address, but it would likely be more than the $2 fee. https://www.reship.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIidDO3dSr4QIV-SCtBh0rOwRaEAAYASAAEgIowPD_BwE#/ ^^ something like this might be worth looking into

That looks promising- it deserves more photos after a few coats of clear.

How close to the border are you?

I've used a Dremel with a polishing wheel on metal parts, and have seen what the RPM can do if the wheel slips or lingers in one spot too long first hand. I'd hate to think what that could do to carefully applied paint and the underlying plastic. Think of the Dremel as more of a brute force/rapid progress tool, with hand filing, hand sanding and hand polishing as the icing on the cake. You can burn through portions of clear and color coats applied in typical scale thickness with a lubricated fine grit polishing pad or sandpaper, so the polishing wheel on a motorized tool can do that in the blink of an eye.

That is looking really good. I especially like the color combo.

The Krylon cap appears to be vacuum metalized (like they do for chrome model parts). False advertising? You could say that...my younger self was sucked in by that on a number of "chrome" paints over the years, from Duplicolor, Testors and other brands, purchased to chase the elusive "chrome in a can" solution. I would say that Krylon paint has a place in modelling, but maybe not for the same surfaces you would use products like Alclad, Spaz Stix or Molotow on if the goal is to replicate scale chrome plating rather than a polished natural metal surface.

No cowl induction hood in that one. There was a snap kit of a GMC (same vintage) that included a cowl hood- it fits the AMT glue kit. ...I should say, it had a GMC style grille.

I know you don't want a 2 part putty, but there are a few good reasons to use them. Many putties that set through evaporation of a solvent can shrink over time. When used on plastic, some of these products that use "hot" solvents (such as xylene, toluene, methyl ethyl ketone etc.) can soften the areas around/underneath where body work has been done. Solvent based putties can shrink over time as the solvent keeps evaporating, which isn't a huge problem if you keep applications thin and allow those solvents to gas out before doing your finish sanding and sealing the worked surface. I've had the problem with Sqaudron putties when used beyond just a slight skim coat, as well as with automotive putties having similar composition. Thicker layers of this stuff can take weeks to fully dry. If you'll be applying putty to larger areas to feather it into surrounding panels, or will need to use thick layers of putty to build up and blend areas, 2 part polyester putties are well worth the added hassle it takes to mix them in appropriate ratios before applying to your model- once catalyzed, they don't shrink, and can be worked, sanded and painted remarkably quickly. I've had great luck with automotive Evercoat polyester glazing putty- while not inexpensive, you get a decent amount with a tube of hardener, and it works extremely well when the area to be puttied and surrounding areas are roughed up with heavy grit sandpaper before applying it. Evercoat smells like typical Bondo, and does throw some heat when curing, but not enough to damage anything on your model. Once cured, it can be knocked down quickly with a rough grit, and has a fine texture when you finish sand with finer grits. ^^ I haven't had a trip to a well-stocked hobby shop since seeing this post in another thread, but I will be looking to add some of this to my tool box once I find it in-stock.

Nice job so far. Don't forget to modify the side panels in the rear seat area with the vertical pieces that cover where the convertible top folds down- you may still be able to do that without messing up your work so far.

Great paint job- great choice of color too.

I was smitten by these trucks when they were released by Chevrolet, and still think this model & body styles is one of their better efforts since the 67-72 series of trucks. The 454 SS has been a coveted vehicle since its release, commanding good money. Makes me glad I can afford one- in styrene at least.

You did a really nice job with this one. Realistic finishes, and a great overall look.

True- much more realistic than straight out of the box. I have a few partially finished from years back, and the AMT headlight treatment led me to try casting a new lens and reflector assembly for headlights and front turn signals out of clear resin. That didn't work out as well as I'd hoped.

Home run- great build, great looking car.

Great paint- it shows how smooth you got that body. What did you spray?

Had a read through the .pdf for the Caswell kit...it made my head hurt. It would be interesting to see how you make out with the system- please bump your thread, with pics (and even better- video).

Interesting. I haven't come across this product (yet). https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/87076light_curing_putty/index.htm ^^ I'll have to keep my eyes open for this in the hobby shop next time

I've said this before, but really looking forward to watching this one to completion. You have been doing an excellent job on this one, a job worthy of such a rare kit.

...as will certain primers over bare metal. The reason I was worried is because I used a large amount of superglue/baking soda filler on that frame. I have been using superglue (Zap a Gap +) and baking soda as filler for small areas since the 80's without finding a science experiment forming on my model, but I usually spray primer and paint over finished areas fairly soon after finish sanding. I do the same over Evercoat 2 part filler, and used to do so over the old Squadron putties that I gave up on decades ago. I have a '67 Impala somewhere that had some sink marks filled with baking soda and superglue mixture that remains unpainted. I'll have to find it and have a look at how it looks today, once I figure out where my "business agent" hid the box.