gman

This is going to be really nice.

Tuned in and waiting to see what that red looks like on the body

Polish out the paint, good to go

Definitely some incredible colors in that bunch that would look good on a variety of bodies. Looking forward to seeing what you pick after spraying on the model.

Beautifully done- that wood framing looks great, as does the paint. I like how your wood has highlights, subtle graining differences that accurately portray the right look while staying "in scale."

I hope you are right :prepares to take more money out of wallet: Insider knowledge?

I am not too hard on this kit- I've bought 5 or 6 of them over the years ;). I just wish what was in the box matched the box art, so putting that out there that there are some differences. I believe I raided another gasser kit for the original style blower scoop. There are period style wheels that can be used to backdate what comes in the box. Wish I still had the wheels from my original build.

I was excited the last time this kit was re-issued, so I rushed out, paid up about $30 and started building- this was the first car kit I purchased myself as a kid back in the 70's, and in spite of some body and other inaccuracies for the '57 purist, when built up it does have a certain period gasser look (provided you are OK with big slicks protruding through modified wheel arches). My original build did not survive, but I painted it red, applied the kit decals and covered the rear windows with sponsor decals. My paintwork was pretty crappy, but it sure did look mean sitting on the table all raked with those decals. I did a few of the early 80's versions in black and lime green based on how much I liked that original kit. I scoured eBay for years hoping to find an original issue to do up like the box art, but didn't like the prices. When I got my hands on the last re-issue of this kit, intending to recreate that first building experience, there were a few things that threw me and weren't quite the way I remembered. The wheels in the kit are not the wheels in the box art from the 1976 issue, so that was disappointing. The rear edge of the hood opening was modified to be cut back all the way to the rear of the hood for later re-issues (for the purpose of clearing the big Mr. Gasket style blower intake scoop included in the last few re-issues), so that doesn't jive with the box art...I only twigged to this after painting the body of the re-issue, too late to backdate the hood opening by fabbing up a trailing edge for the rear of the hood. I was hoping to get my hands on some resin re-pops of the original wheels but there weren't any to be found, so I ended up overpaying for an original issue when one finally appeared on eBay. As much as I enjoyed the original issue of this kit, unless they fixed a few things on the latest version to allow building it as per the box art, I will probably pass. Fixing the hood is simple enough, but re-popping the wheels probably won't happen as it is a limited market and many builders today just won't care to pay up for resin wheels considering what the re-issue will cost. For the record, I paid $2.76 Canadian for the kit I bought back in '76

That looks very realistic- weathered and purpose-built. Great model so far.

I believe kit #7206 is supposed to represent a '79. http://www.automobile-catalog.com/car/1980/46985/mercury_capri_turbo_rs.html You could pore over limited information online and probably find a few differences between the '79 and '80 model years, but on the whole they were pretty similar. I suspect it wouldn't be too hard to build either model year from the kit if you paid attention to any differences and sweated the details in building that kit.

One point of clarification- if you've already sprayed the model with Tamiya primer, I wouldn't suggest shooting coats of a hotter automotive primer over top of it. If you are starting with a bare body, yes you can use automotive primers. I would do mist coats with ample time for the coats to dry/gas out before doing any heavier wet coats to avoid etching the body or lifting the mist coats. I've used Plasticote and Duplicolor primers for years, with the newer plastic being more sensitive to the solvents than kits of old. I've also used Tamiya's grey primer, grey and white fine primer. While it doesn't have the same cost effectiveness of automotive primers, it can give really good results...great (but expensive) stuff for use underneath typical hobby spray paint. I haven't tried Tamiya primers under hotter automotive lacquers however, and if I was going to do color coats with an automotive product on a model, I would do so over automotive primers that were built up in thin mist layers with ample curing time before color coats.

They just opened a Hobby Lobby in a city relatively close by (about an hour away- would have to drive almost 2 hours before this store opened). They had Iwata airbrushes and a few Iwata accessories in stock, but absolutely no Paasche of any kind, if that tells you anything. I scored a Paasche internal mix airbrush on sale at a local hobby shop back in the 80's so I wouldn't necessarily have picked up this deal, but the price is awfully tempting.

Really well done, good looking model. Excellent metal finishes and paint.

Maybe it is...spider webbing

I blame Tim Boyd for a lot of things...cementing my love for both street rods and models in the 80's (Modeller's Corner in Street Rodder magazine), and then doing so all over again in the "other mag", Model Cars magazine and on both forums with muscle cars. He did and continues to do a lot for the hobby, and I always look forward to seeing content from him and photos of his work.

^^ the one in the original "survivor" car ^^ looks a lot like a '67 Shelby wheel (this one is a "repro") ^^ the one in this kit may be a good start...drill out the holes in the spokes, hit select portions with a Molotow chrome pen

The solvents in the last coat probably got into the previous coats just enough to lift them where your bodywork is. It can happen with lacquer primers and color coats as the solvent in the last coat tries to melt into and chemically bond with the previous coats. Knock what you can down with sandpaper around the edges, and try to use something like Comet Cleanser on a toothbrush- this should level the surface enough to re-primer without detracting from the louvers. Depending on what you plan to use for top coat, you may be able to get Tamiya Fine Surface primer to lay down over top of previous coats without raising and ghosting the bodywork again...I wouldn't do it unless you are using a relatively "cool" paint as a color coat, but it is really good stuff. If the plan is to use automotive lacquer for final color, decanting the Krylon (or other automotive) primer into an air brush and building up light mist coats with lots of flash time between coats will help.

That would be a really nice project- I say "do it" and I'd be happy to follow the build. Revell 32 5 window + Rat Roaster kit gets you a good part of the way there.

That is a very good looking gasser- captures "the look" nicely. Well done.

Never would have thought to use cinnamon...should give the finished model a nice scent

You may be able to make one out of clear sheet plastic or clear acrylic sheet from the hobby shop- it is a relatively simple shape with a simple curve compared to some vehicles. Two vent windows can be cut out of the same type of material and glued in separately.

No, it was an American Motors casting. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AMC_straight-6_engine The 199 six evolved into the 232, the 258 and eventually the 4.0 used by Jeep until 2006. I've had three 1:1 iterations of that engine over the years.

Understated, sanitary, and looking oh so right...from every angle.

Very impressive- the flames and the build.

You could also make one out of thin sheet styrene- score it, drill out and shape the openings with some fine jeweller's files, knock off the edges with fine sandpaper, then shape some styrene feet for the finished emblem- flow some heavy glue at the base to get the curve where the upright part transitions to the base, then Chrome with Molotow. A good side profile picture taken from 90 degrees would make life easier for scratch building one.