Dennis Lacy

Painting continues. I had to decide how to approach the frame. Because of the molded on and glued on exhaust, masking the frame to spray the floor areas would be a massive pain. I decided the best way would be to paint the frame rails and front area the accent color I wanted and after that mask those areas and just spray the entire center flat black. I also masked the floor and rear shelf of the interior tub and the spring areas of the axles. Here’s a Quick Look at how the main blue will look with the off-white accent.

This past Sunday afternoon was spent doing all of the final sanding and clean up to prep everything for paint with an intermission run to Pegasus Hobbies to get said paint. Laid all the bare plastic parts out in a “yard sale” pose. There’s not a lot to these old AMT kits! There were also two final mods. The first being sanding away the poorly rendered speaker grill and glovebox clock/trim. No interest in trying to detail that! The second being filling the outer half-round notches in the bumper brackets (the custom bumper only uses the inner notches) and generally fixing up the shape of the brackets. Yesterday all of the parts made it into primer followed by the body pieces today. Today also saw some parts get color. The same blue will be used on the body & fenders. If the background scenery looks different, that’s my welding table at my shop. I do all my spray painting at work. 😎

Thanks! That pesky lower hose is easy to overlook. Heck, half the time the kits don’t even include it! 🤣

Not a bad suggestion. I have done similar by replacing the metal axle with stubs of plastic rod of the same diameter. I guess it would make sense since I spent the time to fill the big notches in the backing plates. Okay, so to recap: 1) Fill rectangle notches in face of firewall. 2) Replace metal axle with stubs.

Steal away! Looking forward to seeing what you do with yours.

Noted.

It became a popular aesthetic modification in competition cars when folks started using plastic to replace window glass (for weight savings) because it could be had in all different colors. Like many things starting with race cars it bled over into hot rods and shoe rods.

Awesome Sedan! Stance is right, wheel & tire combo is right, great color choice, nice to see the 5 liter engine get used and really cool with the 2x3 intake. I especially love the bobbed tail end. Gives it a really tough look!

Last weekend I was able to wrap up the last of the fabrication starting with getting the radiator fit and then making the upper and lower hoses. I’ve been thinking about what distributor I wanted to use and decided a Spalding Flamethrower dual coil distributor would be appropriate and I drilled it for wires. I then made a pair of basic cylindrical coils and mounted them to the firewall on either side of the distributor. Speaking of the firewall, AMT was notorious for molding on a bunch of extra junk so I scraped and sanded that off leaving just the stamping lines and voltage regulator. I really wanted the carbs to have scoops and I suddenly remembered I had a set of 6 frogmouth scoops from Replicas & Miniatures that my pal Jon had sent in a care package last year so I got them mounted. Much better. This will be the last bare plastic mock up and I couldn’t resist getting a look with the kits optional red glass unit. Also seen in the rear views are the tailpipes I added previously. Time to buy some paint.

Tan is one of my favorite colors on a 40 Ford, especially on one with a traditional look with steelies and a Flathead like this one. The bronze is a good accent color, too! Just a great looking car. Nice work!

Great looking 32 5WC! The mild chop and tucked stance give it excellent proportions. Nice work on the wheels. It’s too bad Revell didn’t make deeper rears as it comes. Looks a ton better. Also nice to see the small block used as most go with the optional Hemi.

This is absolutely bitchin! Love everything about it, excellent detailing throughout and looks awesome from every angle. Considering you changed the axles, would enjoy seeing a look underneath.

@Ace-Garageguy @Zippi @meechum68 @James2 @slusher @sidcharles @DJMar Thanks, guys. I’m having fun with this project! I made some progress earlier today. Even though these old AMT kits have basic chassis’ I still want to paint things nicely but there’s one glaring feature that’s been bothering me, the big open slots on the “brake plates”. So, I went ahead and filled them all with scraps of .040” plastic and there was room in the back to add the custom brake drums found in AMT’s 32 Vicky and Phaeton kits. On the other forum that’s hosting the build off a member asked me how I was going to handle the stock exhaust pipes and muffler being molded to frame and I answered with 2 options. 1) Ignore it and chalk it up to “it is what it is.” 2) Use the add-on left side pipes and muffler from the sister 40 Coupe kit and tie them into the headers. Gas class rules of the early 60’s state that the vehicle must be equipped with full exhaust pipes and mufflers but headers can have caps left open while racing. I sourced the add-on exhaust pieces, cleaned them up and glued them into the headers place. But, that wasn’t good enough. I wanted the car to have visible exhaust tips when sitting on its wheels & tires so I carefully carved away the molded tip and sliced off the add-on tip then spliced in tailpipe sections with hanger brackets from a Revell 40 Ford which also have separate chrome tips. The tips end up perfectly under the edge of the custom bumper. The splices and hanger brackets are reinforced with stainless pins. Up front I made a pair of U-shaped connections from the bottom of the header cones to the front ends of the exhaust pipes. These were made from the front pipes in Revell’s modern 29 Roadster / 30 Coupe kits but had to be shortened in the middle of the humps 1/16” to fit up correctly. Again, pins were used to reinforce the joints. Here are some overall chassis shots with the axles in place. Once everything is paint detailed this should do just fine. Still more to come…

Love it! Do you remember what you used to paint the rear wheels. That’s a very convincing Dow 7 coating look.

Looks really cool in this color combination and great decal choices!

Absolutely LOVE this. Everything from the color, to the stance, to the deleted running boards, to the wheel & tire combo and to the blown 427. Wouldn’t change a thing!

I believe this is the first time I’ve actually seen someone build the Dragstrip Accessories. They look great but the camera is just awesome! And, I remember seeing the rail before but definitely don’t mind seeing it again.

Agree. The new white resin is much sturdier feeling.

Just received these 5 1:25 scale hot rod bodies from Drag City Casting and as usual, the quality is second to none. The masters are highly polished so each body comes out of the mold smooth and flawless. They have no residual mold seams from the kit bodies they were mastered from and are the exact same thickness as the kit bodies they are meant to fit so the interior assemblies from those kits fit perfectly. The 32 3-Window is a direct replacement for Revell’s 32 3-Window. The 32 Sedans are direct replacements for Revell’s 32 Sedan. The 32’s also include matching chopped windshield frames. The 34 5-Window is a direct replacement for AMT’s 34 5-Window and the flip nose 41 Willys is a direct replacement for Revell’s 41 Willys modern tool gassers. It is up to the builder to fabricate a hinge mechanism. Drag City Casting can be found on Facebook or emailed directly at: “lowcab36@epix.net

I started this project to participate in an AMT Trophy Kit group build on the niche forum, Traditional Rod and Kustom In Scale. The idea is to use an AMT kit that was party of their early Trophy series , either an original issue or subsequent reissues. I’m starting with the most current issue of the 1940 Sedan. Modifications to the exterior include: - Hood and side trim deleted. - Kit provided solid grill filler. - Running boards deleted. - Door and trunk handles from Revell 40 Fords. - AMT 40 Coupe custom rear bumper, front bumper brackets deleted. - Rear fender radii increased to clear slicks. - Kit stock front wheels. AMT 49 Ford rear wheels, printed tires and slicks. - Kit dropped front axle. The engine is the optional Pontiac from AMT’s 36 Ford kits with heads, valve covers and timing cover from AMT’s parts pack Pontiac, Lehman cam-driven water pump from AMT’s 40 Willys, chrome log intake from AMT’s 25 T’s and Revell 40 Ford Stromberg carburetors and filters. I’ve began making the plumbing from the water pump to the sides of the block where the forward core plugs would go. Note that in the pics below a water cross-over has been added but will not be staying because its connection points aren’t accurate. More on that later. The headers are taken from Revell’s most current 32 Ford Roadster and while they are from a Chevy small block, the port alignment is very similar and will pass the first-glance test. They had to be shortened about 3/16” and the inner fenders were trimmed for them to pass through. Disregard the dual 4-barrels and belt drive as those were an earlier idea. The interior is going to be simple. The roll bar comes from the kit and I added separate door and window crank handles. The steering wheel is AMT 49 Ford. I also scribed the door panel lines which were nonexistent. That’s where I’m at so far. More to come!

I noticed the new activity on Instagram. So good to see it on the front burner. Coming together stunningly!

I was a big fan of all of Roger’s models. He had an immediately recognizable style that made me follow his projects, even if it was a subject I’d ordinarily have no interest in. He always followed and supported my projects, too, which meant a lot to me. That said, you nailed his style, Steve! I could imagine this truck coming from his hands and workbench. And, not just in build style but in parts selection, as well. As for your model here, it’s absolutely awesome. I love the choice Super Stallion engine. It’s impressive looking on its own and fills all that space under the hood nicely. Love the stance and color choices. The whole truck is on the money. 😎

Thanks, Tim! And, at least I still have the Wife and the House so it wasn’t for nothing! Also looking back, the pictures of the model are terrible quality so here’s some fresher ones. @Rocking Rodney Rat really pulled out all of the stops when he fabricated and painted/weathered this model. Again, I only glued it together. 😎

Yes! I don’t have a link handy for it but it’s there somewhere. Here’s a handful of finishes pictures. Was from Altered States. RIP, Chuck.

Looks great! Nice detail painting throughout. Decals look good despite your problems with them. I had this kit as a kid and “attempted” to build it but it was a bit beyond my 11 or 12 year old pay grade and it turned out pretty bad. If I can ever find another for reasonable money I’d love to do a redemption build.