randyc

I used that dehydrator to dry a LOT of plastic. I do most of the painting with an airbrush. I would paint, put entire sprues in there, let them dry. Bodies, anything painted with airbrush. This is the ONLY brand of model that was ever affected. Again, I have no idea how hot that one ran. Just an on/off switch. BUt I wore it out. Or it wore out. The fan gave up. After this thread I will probably get a new one again. one with a temp control. I think the one I have is even hotter than the old one. I can laugh about it now.

Yep, the red stripes. I built an AMT 69 years ago (countdown boxing) - before the internet. All imagination. It was white on top, with red below the body line. Was one of my favorite builds of my younger self. So I can't do that again and be "correct". I was going to use a red interior, but didn't want to go through the painting process. I was painting black that evening. So I went with black. and there was an all original car on the net that had black interior and red stripe. And yes, I want this to stand out on the shelf. I think it will with the red stripe and black bottom. I wanted to do this one in something completely different, BUT the 69 doesn't have a factory red stripe option. So this is where I ended up. Not sure where the 69 will end up. And that is assuming Revell will do a 69 which seems likely from the chatter on here. BTW, I would probably have been of those who would have ordered a "mod top" Mopar back in the day. LOL

Still looks good to me. Nice build.

It was a cheap presto with no temp settings. I never checked it. Lindberg Mopars were all I ever had issues with. This isn't the only one that I did this to. I didn't learn quickly enough. These had strange plastic. You can feel it when you're working with it. Pretty soft stuff. I don't remember the details, but I used to paint them and just leave them for hours. I had a Petty Plymouth that started warping but I caught it before anything more than a front fender. I cut it off and made it "race damaged". Sold the model though so no photos.

Here's one that is getting close to complete. Box stock, but concentrating on the visual details. Will have red stripes.

Found one of my warped Lindberg bodies from the dehydrator. Kinda funny now. Wasn't at the time. This kit will be going to ebay - all complete except the hood. And the body is warped. LOL.

I did a NASCAR car like that once. Krylon and duplicolor paints. Plus the enamel small brush paint details. And the dehydrator. Built the whole car in an afternoon and turned out pretty nice, especially considering it only took an afternoon.

I looked yesterday - temp and time contorl units for around $36 delivered via Amazon. Maybe soon... good point on the thermometer.

Thanks. That's as high a praise as I could ever expect. This has made me look for a few new projects. Not much new stuff that excites me and the old stuff I have done enough. So this has been fun building for someone else. Fortunately, I have enough projects to find plenty of things to do.

I DO wish this situation would work out. I also wish I had the $200 to spend. This is THE best of the two magazine forums - I find what I like here so I don't look for others actively.. MCM is the best magazine right now, from my memory of the last issue I bought compared to the new issue of the other that I received Saturday. I'm facing renewing my subscription to the other one and am seriously debating if it is worth it. I'm not sure I like the direction they are going. I know Gregg has had a lot of issues that keep the magazine from being regular. That is unfortunate. Print media is still a wonderful resource to me. I love to hold the magazine. I don't want to read that on my phone or tablet. So I get that it is hard to find the printers and such as well. I wish this endeavour luck so that we can continue to have the great discussions we have on here. And I hope the mag gets back on track. I will be studying on a way to make it happen.

I tried the Testors boxed Countach in the early 90s. Sold the remains recently. My patience and skills were not what they are now. Just finished this one over the weekend. This is apparently not one of the real skill testing kits. Or my abilities have come a long way (they have). There are LOTS of tiny pieces. Door handles, side markers. I did manage to get them attached without losing them. With lots of "calming breaths" too. LOL. Tip: be very carefull cutting the parts from the sprue - fine details like steering column stalks will snap off easily. Only had one that needed fixing. Lesson learned. I even managed to get the interior mirror together and in the car successfully. A very rewarding build. If you are considering this and have more than one kit that was thrown against wall in last 12 months, you should probably pass. LOL Even this one may test your patience. I only work on stuff like this when I have time to concentrate. Really need to think about some of the assembly process to get best results. Moreso than other "standard" kits. I have a 911 Rally car to complete. I started it but got to the body paint and stopped at some point years ago. Time to drag it back out and see if I can get it done. Will look better now because I paint better now. I also did the BMW 635. It came out okay for my skills at the time. Tires were too wide if I recall. Also sold it recently.

I have a "new" dehydrator. Very simple. Not even on/off switch. I asked for it for Christmas with no other criteria when my first one finally died. With that said, this one seems hotter but I have not put a thermometer to it to check. But I am very cautious about leaving things in it without checking them often. Or just putting a body shell on top over the vents wheree the hot air comes through but isn't quite so hot as inside. the car in photo was painted with duplicolor black on Friday evening. Dehydrated for an hour or so. Left over night. Body felt dry Saturday morning and I put on Testors Boyds Clear thinned with lacquer thinner. Then in the dehydrator for a couple hours. Unplugged dehydrator. Came back Sunday morning and heated for a couple more hours. Still has a slight smell to it. Yes I do use the sniff test. It's pretty dry now but I still would not handle the body for more than sliding the chassis up under it in this photo. Still needs more time to dry before polishing the dusties out. I think heat/cool cycles help as well. the heat can cause the paint to be softer, but a cooling cycle seems to help it harden. And that's just my opinion since I only use dehydrator when I'm with it. My building area is in my outbuilding so I am hesitant to leave it on when I'm not there. And no my VCR doesn't flash 12:00. LOL I would leave things in my old dehydrator for 24 hours, but not this one. It just seems too hot. Without the dehydrator, this wouldn't be anywhere near ready to touch. I don't think there is anywhere near a constant timing for paints. Guidelines maybe. I think this week I should check temp in the dehydrator. It's been in storage til recently with a divorce etc. But I finally had a place for it and have been using it a lot over the last month. And do be careful with what you put in any dehydrator. My last one seemed cooler but warped a couple of Lindberg bodies very badly.

Wow! Beautiful parts. Not my current genre, but looks like would be a really nice replica. Even though I think it's a terribly ugly car. Would be fun to build and detail.

Looks great!

It's done! Need to do a license plate and some outdoor pics and do an Under glass post. I hate the tie rod. Too thin and comes off the posts too easily. Next up? Pantera built for same guy that had me build the Daytoan. Photo is fresh from dehydrator. Quite a bit of dusties to be polished out, which is a shame becasue I'll never get it this shiny again. Also working on my 68 Chevelle.

Looks good. Should have come that way probably. I'm surprised this casting didn't have more versions, even though I'm not a particular fan of it.

NICE DAY 2 CAR! All that's missing is the rust around the rear fenders and lower quarters, but it would be a shame to do that to this build. Very nice!

I am really impressed with this one. I did the BMW 635. Was many years ago. You really have to have patience and some experience to get the most out of these. My 635 was just ok. I never was able to finish the Lambo Countach. It was too fiddly for my ham-handedness. I also have a Porsche 911 rally car to finish someday. I think it's at the body paint stage? Last time I was in that box, I was living in a place where I couldn't go any farther with it (airbrushing).

Very NICE!

Intereting debate on the body shape issue. I built the Revell Lowrider version for something different. And it is an iconic lowrider. I do not know the intimate details of the body. My reference points on most of my models are some sort of memory, not actual study of the real car. Dodge Darts being the exception. my reference point on the 63 Impala is the red SS that sat in the woods at my grandfathers house. Not sure of it's story. other than it was not running and my uncle would get parts off of it occasionally for some other project. The family car was a 64 4 door. Grandpa had a 63 wagon that was loaded to the bump stops for his work car - he was a carpenter and eventually upgraded to a van loaded to the bumpstops. The 63 wagon became a storage unit in the woods. Like so many cars were down there. So... when I built my kit, I remember the general shape of the front and rear. And that grnadpa did explain the differences in 62, 63, and 64 bodies to me. 65 and 66 were easy because uncles had one each. And so on. So when I build a kit, my mind has fuzzy reference if any. So it has to be a pretty big error. Big error: the Danbury mint 68 Chevelle - the side windows on that thing are atrocious enough to notice the error. As is the front of the Franklin Mint Falcon. But the 63 didn't set off any alarms for me. As for the argument that with todays technology there should be perfect bodies? A computer can only reproduce what it is given and that often misses the little things that really define an iconic shape. So which oil should I use?

Nice again. Need a LIKE or thumbs up feature.

And thanks for everyone that has looked and said something nice. And the suggestions from everyone to help with the hurdles. This has been fun but it will be no big deal to turn the keys over to the real owner. As nice as it is, it doesn't really fit my collection at this point. And I can visit it in the other guy's collection most anytime. We swap diecasts and I do repairs for him. He already has the Testors Pantera for me to build and a couple more on the way. Maserati Merak and some sort of Lamborghini. Testors reboxes of motorized cars. Those two are very unusual. He also wants a Cougar convertible. So I'll be building Italian exotics for a while. lol. I am working on a 68 Chevelle for me. No photos - I didn't think there was anything I could add that hasn't been already covered. Maybe an "under glass" since it's going to be white with red stripes - haven't seen that yet. And my Miura, whicih I'll try to start a thread on maybe. If I can remember to take photos. I always forget that.

I had some of that at some point, but can't seem to find it. I have sprayed a coat of clear lacquer which still didn't work and brushed a light coat of clear enamel on them. This kit really needs a set of metal transfers. Or a set of PE details. We'll see when I try the next decals. Probably the underhood decals so I can see how they do with the enamel on them. I forgot them before I made that final assembly of body to chassis. The choke decal on the console worked but not real well. It was on the matte paint so that may be the issue.

I'm trying to figure this out as well. I just went in and changed some settings. We'll see.

I built the plastic as a kid (glue bomb). Then again as an adult. It can be fiddly to build but can make a nice replica. Same as the 510. I sold my plastic kit and this one is exciting to look at, just doen't fit my collection right now. Love the BRE racers in general. What a guy he was! My favorite era of racing.