Hawk312

Very nice. Looking forward to seeing all of them built. I didn`t know Ollies had the transporter! I may need to head back out there!

Mine is a silver or aluminum paint, as the aluminum in the paint will create a barrier the color can`t bleed through. I built a bunch of the 1/12 `67 Corvette kits, which are of course molded in red. I have tried sealers, high build primers, etc, and they have all bled through white once the clear coat was applied. Numerous times I had pink stinger stripes. Since using silver or aluminum paint though just before the color coats, I have had no issues with bleed through. I have one with a white stinger stripe that was built over a decade ago in my display case. The stinger stripe is still bright white.

For those who are interested, I was just able to pick up one of these Pledge bottles with the boots on them at my local Walmart. It was back in a corner with all the mops and floor cleaning supplies. This is my first time working with this or Future, and it seems to be doing what others here have said. I am using it to hold down some old decals that weren`t adhering. I was actually able to put it under the decal with a q-tip and burnish down the decal while not having any residue on the paint like you would get with white glue or clear enamel/lacquer. I am very happy about that. The decals were also very cloudy before (they are transparent over a dark color) and now the cloudiness seems to be completely gone.

Thanks Snake. I will give that a try! Do you have to be careful with the Windex or ammonia possibly lifting the decal? Thanks again.

I am building the Army Monza funny car, and the decals are horrendous. I applied them to my best of my ability and appeared to at least be decent once I was finished. It is now 24 hours later, and they are peeling all around the edges. This is even with using setting solution on the back and front side of the decals (not sure they are actually compatible with solution) and warm water. Some of them even peel off completely with little effort. I have tried using white glue or clear coat around the edges, but am not happy with the results. At this point, I am tempted to carefully cut packing tape and put it over them, but I would hate to resort to that. Any ideas? Thanks

Wow. His craftsmanship looks to be top notch, I`m just not getting the station wagon thing. I have seen many of his auctions over the years, and many of his subjects are slightly obscure like this one. I guess someone can`t exactly pick up a die cast of a subject like this.

Looks good! Congrats on the birth of your son. But your last post was on the 4th, just 25 days ago. You`ve had time to build again already?

A few more:

Lots of nice Camaros here guys. I thought I already posted to this thread, but I guess not. All I have is some old stuff since it`s been a little while since I built one of these.

Hi Bill, I would definitely be interested in your in progress thread. Please continue to post progress! Thanks for posting the pictures of the kit contents.

Thanks for the link. Unfortunately, I am looking for the slightly larger diameter ones like these: http://www.megahobby.com/racingslicks2tireonly124-125pegasus.aspx

No worries! I think Chief Joseph is casting those in your choice of white resin or black rubber. Very cool. He has been posting about them in the resin/aftermarket section. Let me know if you need more info.

What are you guys using for accurate diameter slicks for modern funny cars/top fuel? I was looking around for the Pegasus (old So Real) slicks, as they are close to the correct diameter and fit almost any wheel because of their soft rubber. But it appears Pegasus dropped these, as they are out of stock everywhere that I can find. I was thinking of going with Competition Resin`s FC/TF slicks, but am concerned with possible fitment issues because of the hard compound. I will be using the "super trick" wheels from the Revell Chevelle Malibu kit. Thanks!

That kit is 1/25. For those who care, the frame is the updated 1 piece version and not the two piece one that requires a minimum of 4 hands to assemble. The kit tires are also the 1 piece versions that are in the Blue Max and red Jungle Jim kits.

Oh wow. Nice! I didn`t see the Raminator kit at our local Ollies. I`ll have to search around at some of the other ones close by. I`ve been wanting a monster truck kt. is that 1/25 scale?

Ours here had a pretty decent number of kits, most mentioned above. I saw the Lindberg Yellow Charger kit....not sure if that has been mentioned. Lots and lots of Lindberg kits, only a handful of Revell kits. No Hawaiian funny cars, which is what was going for. I grabbed the very last two Mongoose Duster funny cars, a Superbird, and the `66 Mustang fastback from Revell. Also, the had 3m blue painters tape fairly cheep.

This was mentioned in the reviews section, but this has gotta be one of the worst I have ever built: Revell 1:12 scale Mustang A "chopped" top, brittle/thin a-pillars that twist on their way down from the roof to the cowl, doors that will not have convincing gaps no matter what you do (I actually secured them shut on my build and used lots of styrene and filler to get it "presentable"), a ride height suitable for off road, a flat front nose, slab-sided rear fenders with no shape to them, and just in general all proportions seem off. I swore I would never build this one again.

I have heard of some guys using tamiya black underneath Spaz Stix. How long do you guys allow it to dry, and must you always buff it? Mine is coming out looking more like aluminum, but I only let the Tamiya dry for about an hour. Are you using a bunch of light mist coats, or a couple mist coats and a heavy one? I have seen some guys that can get this stuff looking like kit chrome.

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. I think I am taking each suggestion and applying it, and my castings are coming out much better. Hopefully you will see them on one of my projects soon. Thanks!

Thanks Snake and unclescott!

Having had first hand experience, I can tell everyone here it lives up to your (low) expectations! Flat nose, chopped roof, A-pillars that are brittle and twist 45º (weird), slab sided rear fenders, doors that wont line up, and a ride height more fitting for a Hummer. Here is the best I could do with it with *alot* of work:

Wow. I was never really interested in that car til I saw yours. Nice finish. It looks like it really builds up well. And it looks as though the MPC funny cars aren`t plagued with the undersize slicks like the Revell kits?

Do you guys have another email address for him? So far I haven`t heard from him. Or is it best to call? I tried to avoid the person to person stuff where possible.

Thanks for posting that Wayne! Your changes make a night and day difference compared to box stock build. BTW, I am using your excellent guide in my build!

Probably the best way would be to use CA glue I would imagine. I used that for the front tires, and it seemed to work really well. I was able to sand them, very roughly I might add (120 grit), without them coming apart. This was like 5 minutes after gluing them together. I am not even going to try anything with the kit rears, as they are way too small. The "kit" tire in the above picture is actually from the Blue Max funny car kit, and is 1 piece. The frame is also 1 piece in that kit, as opposed to the two piece frame in this and some of the monza kits, so I will be using that frame.