horsepower

Looks like a '31 Ford Model A to me.

I'd like to see the '74 MPC Pinto sedan (deck lid instead of a hatchback) it's the only SEDAN that was done with the deluxe outer trim package and we had one '74 Runabout with that trim package and a '71 with that trim package too, all I'd need to do is rob the small bumpers and the front and rear valance panels to get the right body and I have a couple of the AMT '71 Wonder Pony kits that I didn't find out until I already owned them that the rear wheel openings had been opened up for a set of big slicks but the interior is right and the 2.0 engine with the four speed from the later releases will work for that. That'll just leave finding what seems to be the hardest thing to find and that's the box with the tooits in it especially those darn round ones that always seem to be the rarest.??

I know I got on this ride a little after it was goin' but thought I would give a little knowledge about the '70s backyard race cars, we ran drums at both ends of the car and we used Pontiac drums on the rear right out of the '55 the housing came from and they're pretty close to the drums you have here, on the front we used '68 Lincoln Continental spindles and the front brakes were three inches wide on the braking surface but had a very pronounced group of cast in cooling fins and the part we were a little up in the air over is they were completely cast iron drums but they looked a lot like the Buick drums in quite a few different available kits from the Round2 Buick ones to the ones I think that I will use and they are the ones that Revell stuck in the Model A Coupe and Roadster kits. Your looking good on your way to get it ready for the first race but knowing how racers are you will no doubt realize that the good things that are said about a full nights sleep are way over rated. We didn't go to dual master cylinders or even a dual stage master cylinder until the last dirt car we built. Most of the rides we stuck together used the "Ol' Reliable" fruit jar topped Mustang master cylinders. We did try a bright idea where we decided that if it was good enough for General Motors why wouldn't it work in our race car and for a race or two we tried using the dual master cylinder from the early '60s GM trucks and went to a hydraulic clutch set up, but for some reason we kept having clutch failure to release problems. I'm not sure but I felt for some reason that we had them switched and were just not getting the volume we needed but the driver (and owner) voted us down and we went back to the manual release set up from our ancient history and it never gave us a problem until we poked a hole in the release fork with the pushrod from the bell crank that was fixed by just welding an end for another release fork to the end of a complete one to make a double thickness part that was still in the bell housing when we sold the car.

The red that RCR used on the Goodwrench cars had a lot of orange in it, I think that Ford Poppy red from the late '60s Mustangs is very near the exact color and the black was a generic BASF code that was mixed up in the RCR paint shop with their own in house mixing station that before the wraps became popular every fairly large shop owned.

Please delete, I have found and received my wanted chrome trim.

Since Round2 has acquired the Testors/Lindberg tooling maybe it's time to re-release one or both of the versions of the Boyd's shop truck/Eddie Van Halen ride (the different versions are a Quik build and a full detail version)

I started working on race cars in the mid '60s with a friend in our neighborhood who had a homebuilt trailer made from those old landing strip pads that somehow appeared in his yard that were almost identical to the one that the BLM was using to make erosion dams in the area uphill from the Shasta Dam?, the mines in the area had killed virtually every kind of natural coverage and they were trying to keep the lake from filling up with silt before it could get a good chance of being full of water. I have looked about everywhere for that matting in 1/24th or 1/25th scale and this is about as close as possible. The mats he used have smaller holes that are around 1 and a 1/2 inches in diameter. It made a strong light trailer and with some old Rambler spindles it was pretty easy to make a trailer that we could load most cars without ramps by just using a floor jack to lift the tongue a couple of inches.

Since the Supernatural series is no longer in production I'm not sure what licensing with them would be but the biggest one was probably General Motors anyway. I personally would like to see it with a small block and turbo 400 trans. We had one like that in the dismantling yard I worked for. I wanted the motor and trans and a super clean '69 Chevy wagon we had. But the wagon was snagged by one of our big customers who built four by four rigs for different purposes and had a buyer for it with later model LS engine electronic trans and transfer case with bigger beefier axles. He said it was gonna make the perfect weekend family wagon for the beach AND/OR off-road family.

Great! I really appreciate it, address is: Del Streetman 19084 Leaf Lane Redding, CA. 960034227. Thanks again for your help in getting these, it's gonna help out a lot on making a replica of my first car, I already have a couple of sets of fenderwell exit headers, and a small block with a four speed and a high rise dual plane intake with a Holley carb and the interior side panels and decals from a '57 150 Black Widow now I just need to find my box of tooits it's the round ones that are always getting away from me..??

Got my 222 issue a few weeks ago but still sitting in the house anxiously looking for the 223 issue but still it's a no show, but on the good side is we haven't had any ransom demands yet either.??

Sorry but the '55s have totally different body design.

Correct! That's the kit that I want to locate the Bel-Air Chrome trim for. I am going to put it on the newer Del-Ray for a better body mold and will strip the parts and bare metal foil them when everything is painted in the base color.

Looking for the chrome body trim for the old Revell 1/25th scale Bel-Air SEDAN. Need the SEDAN Bel-Air trim just the trim not the entire body or kit, if you have two I would be ecstatic! Thanks, Del

When I was working in an upholstery shop we had one very close to that come in but it went back another two or three feet into the bed are before flattening out and the guy wanted to use it for a bed for two with a into it from the seating area and or the bed area that would also have sleeping arrangements, the guy was a traveling short track racer and used the truck for pulling a three axle tag along 30 foot trailer that when the car was unloaded had a kitchenette and kind of a lounge for his crew and a wife or girlfriend or two. We made a crawl through that was under the bed and went through where the back window was originally and cut a sunroof type opening in the roof and made an internal and external climb through that allowed a person to go back and forth without having to stop and it also made it so that the HVAC unit could work for the entire area. It was a lot of work and surprised quite a few people who saw it the first time, a lot called it the "Traveling' Bordello", so we lettered that on the back window of the camper shell.

!Looks to me like the camper shell could be easily modified by taking the upper section off at the break above the window and using a fairly thick piece of styrene with a molded in panel lines or a Pebble grained one and shape it to roll smoothly into the sides of the kit shell. I think this would make it easier to fit on several other pickups with different heights and even different widths as fabricating a front section to fit different widths and a rear door with or without a window wouldn't be too hard for a builder with a little imagination and some knowledge of how the full size shells were built even adding a light to the inside of the shell would be a nice touch and would really be easy, especially if you used the copper tape for wiring since it is basically flat and a little flocking, pattern paint or even some light velour (velvet) or felt would make a good interior material that would efficiently hide any of the wiring (tape) and even some of the LED bulb to make it look a little closer to scale, I have several ideas for a switch of some kind for turning the light on and off without being really obvious and using a couple of tiny wafer type watch batteries to make it possible to remove the shell with everything intact would make it be a little more interesting to some people. Good luck and enjoy using your own ideas and maybe one or two of mine with some changes to fit your own build. I'm thinking of using some of my thoughts to make a red neck dog house like one my dad had for a couple of his fur babies, I fail to see how using a $1100 camper shell for a dog house is cheaper and easier than buying one of those Dogloos that are totally waterproof and easy to put a nice fur bed into.

Well, I am taking thank you's for those who are happy about the Nova, I finally got hold of a body and interior tub to make a Busch Grand National race car and had to pay $45 after shipping, then a LeMans stock car kit was released that I could have used my Nova grille and front bumper to build the car I wanted and now we have a clean unmolested Nova for the right parts and pieces. Now I need someone to spend the $100+ for one of the '71 Pinto Wonder pony kits I refuse to cough up that much for one that will probably come with hogged out rear wheel openings.

And again people are jumping to conclusions about something on the internet without looking closely at the remarks. The answer from Moebius said that the "fake box" showing up for years on the internet is just that, a fake, and followed that with what really should be the center of attention and that is to not think that it is something that is just around the corner. Notice he didn't say it was just someone's pipe dream and would NEVER be seen, but just to not expect it to be right around the corner. Now, being of the optimistic sort that is just a nod nod, wink wink way of saying the chances look optimistic, but don't hold your breath waiting because it's gonna take some time, but as we all know good things take time to be developed so I won't say it's NEVER going to see the light of day but don't be really surprised when you see a test run sitting on the display table at a model and toy show.?

I have a complete photo shoot that was done for an article since my shop paid for the shoot (I had done all of the glass work and paint) but in one of the many moves since 1978 they are resting peacefully in a box in the shop, a 20x40 shop that has everything I have collected over the years and my models my daughters Breyer horse and animals collection and I know that if I live long enough to get "a round to it" I'm going to find things that I had no idea I still owned them. Unfortunately it's only been in the past year or so that I got intelligent enough to write what is in the large boxes, cabinets, and dressers with a sharpie. Efficient, but takes the Christmas morning feeling out of going through the boxes looking for a particular part or kit. But my wife gets exasperated with that method because I always seem to find several kits or projects that I need to get started on again right now! But if I manage to find the photo album of things I did while in the paint business I will definitely put some of them up for viewing.

I want one of the Bantam bodies and I already have the right 392to build a model of what I wanted my brother to do with the 392 out of his blown Sanger flat bottom drag boat, with the adapters available to put a big block Chevy water pump on the front and several different auto trans adapters available a Street Roadster that had a resemblance to a AA/FA it would definitely be a hit with the cruising crowd.

Decal sheet says it's a 429.

Blazer. Could be interesting if you combined it with the Fleetside pickup for a little more detail. (Like maybe an engine and opening hood)

If you want a fairly easy almost goof proof candy use a metallic that is really close to the color you want and then top coat it with the transparent/candy of choice, you can even mix bases and top coat colors to get some really nice looking different colors, personally I used a "Metal Flecks" blue for a base and their purple anodizing color for the top coat before clear and came out with a deep purple that looks like it was shot over a metalflake base. As a tip if you use the Metal Flecks or the Anodizing paints swap out the spray nozzle for one from a Tamiya or Testors that uses one that will fit the can right, the other paints are putting out waaay to much material at a ridiculously high pressure.

Try epoxying the sprue into a couple of aluminum tubing pieces so they will spin truer in the drill chuck and use the tubing to start the trueing process and the tubing you're gonna just hack off anyway when you get done. Or you can pick up some round transparent rods and dip the finished light into the transparent red and some clear if you can't find red, but clear and the fluorescent colors like orange and red can be tinted with transparent red easier than the clear even.