horsepower

I'm going for the lower look too, but I think that I'll use the front suspension from the Beatnik Bandit II. It has the best Mustang II style front suspension in plastic. I have a couple of the R&D Unique cast metal independent front suspension kits but I still lean towards the plastic parts since if I need to add to something along the way it's easier to do and any time I can get good results without having to do something hard that'll be my path?.

I'd buy it just for the Webers, and valve covers they'd be perfect for a replica of a local Super Modified from the mid to late '60s that the local Ford dealership actually donated a complete from pan to air horns 289 Cobra engine as a sponsorship. Pretty competitive against much bigger engines, one Sprint car even ran a 427 fuel injected Ford power plant.

I know it's too late but the little bit of space would be needed since you have to remember that you're going to need enough room to slide the rear tires and wheels off the studs and more than likely have to tip them in at the top to get them in and out of the wheel well openings and the car will move side to side over the tires when cornering not to mention how much the sidewall flex on them big ol'slicks are gonna have if you ever get even a little bit out of shape?.

I had a couple of the AMT '57. Pro Street kit and decided that the frame and suspension parts would be a perfect fit under the '55 body and with the tires and wheels from the AMT '67Chevelle kit I am almost ready to get real serious about it. Addendum: got a supercharged big block with fenderwell exit headers from a Chevy Monster Truck kit and since it has a street type set up for cooling AND a modern automatic to use I'm just about ready to start mocking things up, still haven't decided if I want to use the big block base engine and heads from the '57 so all mounts won't need to be changed around, and I was looking for at the front clip from the AMT '70 1/2 Camaro to update the chassis in the front or if I really want to use some put back rare things I have a complete Mustang II front suspension set up from the Revell Beatnik Bandit II and that would be even a little more up to date for a street driver type because if I really want a Pro Street car it would require building (or robbing) the more modern McPherson strut type front suspension from a modern style Pro Street but I'm not building a Lutz type tri five all out race car, just a loud obnoxious in your face old style Pro STREET, emphasizing the STREET for its main purpose, it's a big stop light cruiser that would be one of my "bucket list" cars .?

If you reread the article you'll notice that what he used to replace the trim on the side of the body was .020 rod, and not half round, BUT he did use .020 half round for the drip rail replacement, I have used both square stock and .020 angle stock for drip rail, but it depends on if I want to represent drip rail channel, or just a blending of the drip rail into the roof like he did on his beautiful job. I hope that helps you get clarity on what your question was.

Just saw this, it's one of the celebrity losses I missed somehow. He had several different scenes where I was laughing so hard I had to ask what I'd missed but one scene I really could understand and sympathize with his statement was when they were hit by the tornado and they found Johnny cowering alone in his own hiding spot where he told them that he had been in a mobile home that had been hit by a tornado and added "God HATES mobile homes. Sorry my wife and I had one for our first home of our own I can totally understand what he was talking about. R.IP. Howard/Johnny you're going to be missed but we can try to find old replays of WKRP in Cincinnati. Best we can do, it'll have to do.

It's even worse when the same is true for the parts themselves, on some of the Ford kits it's like they used the same mold for the starter, oil filter and it's old enough the generator too.

Tim, wouldn't that MPC/AMT '28 be a Model A, instead of a Model T? I would settle for the three venturi Weber carbed Corvair. They really came alive with those Porsche goodies, and I'd really have to agree wholeheartedly with you about the Pro Stock (or any of the small bumper sedans) Pinto kits but PLEASE use the MPC '74 sedan and toss in the small bumpers and valances so we could build our choice of years. That '74 version is the only sedan offering that has the optional deluxe trim package with side moldings an chrome trim. Now if only some intelligent person would produce some of the A-50, and D-50 BF Goodrich Comp T/A's in 13" sizes . Like I saw in an earlier post, a fella can dream can't he? It would really be great if the Round2 group would dig out their flat bottom and hydro molds so we would be able to afford some decent performance type boats without getting bent over the railing.

As a fan of the Pinto's and having a body shop at the time this body style came out I can tell you that the factory pieces didn't fit all that well either. I always thought that the use of the same front fenders was the main contributing factor. But it made it easy for me to make a later year Pinto out of one of ours when it was totaled in a deer/bank collision. (The wife swerved to miss Bambi's mom dropped the right front wheel and tire off of a really tall shoulder causing the car to make a violent right turn. The only thing she could think of was I had told her if the back end ever started to come around to stay off the brakes and steer it. She didn't realize until later that she had braced herself on the gas pedal and was climbing a hill in third gear and when it came around with the throttle wide open it just smoked the tires and really wore off the outside edge of the left rear tire, (a brand new D-50x13" Comp T/A Radial) and bounced off of vertical bank three different times before she got it stopped. But it was a good thing kinda because the other side of the road was a vertical drop of around fifty feet.

The interesting thing about those older AMT kits is that any of the engines from any of the same period engines will fit without any modifications as they all used the same mounts on the frames.

The Purple bath will remove enamels quick and easy, but lacquer is extremely difficult to get all of it off. If it was just sprayed over an unprepped or unprimed body the paint will just fall off. Just remove it after a couple of hours and with hot water and a stiff toothbrush clean off the loose paint since it can be deceiving since it will appear that nothing is happening since the paint will sometimes just hang in place and remain basically intact just floating in place.

Find another set of stock appearing fenders and by swapping them from side to side and cutting them to the correct height they make some really different appearing tubs. Depending on what you you have to do with the suspension you will either have to form something between them or use some plastic sheet to fill the remains of the wheel opening that will be left, unless they are low enough to not have any opening left.

Doesn't AMT/MPC, et.al. Have molds for a TV Tommy Ivo type enclosed trailer that had sides of clear panels so the car(s) inside could be seen while going down the road? Something like that would be perfect for sticking one of the early Roth kits, or even the Beatnik Bandit II would be an appropriate vehicle for it. I'd be interested in something like that more than an enclosed trailer with Rat Fink decals, unless some kind of Roth vehicle was in the deal with it.

The interior and chassis from the Fink Speedwagon from Revell fit the Phantom too. Or you can even use the interior from the Speedwagon in the Revell two door sedan kit for a different interior look or Phantom chassis for the independent front suspension, BUT I'd stay with the Revell rear end and suspension instead of the Phantom kits Mustang Cobra parts.

I understand that well, hopefully they have the NNL West in February next year. It and about everything else was on hold this year and last year too. Between that and a few needed surgeries have kept me away for the past ten years so I'm really anxious to go again. We usually take a big load down to sell and my wife says we bring as much or more back home, so she doesn't see it getting any smaller. Thanks for getting back to me so quickly I do appreciate it. Del

You wouldn't be interested in trading the Buddy Baker decal set for the Richard Petty ones would you? I have the last issue of the Petty Charger and haven't even opened the box yet and haven't been able to find a #71car or decal set reasonable yet.

The six from the. '60 AMT Chevrolet pick-up would be a closer appearing one than the one from the '37 coupe. The '37 is a 216 c.i. engine and the truck has basically the same 235 c.i. engine that came in the '57.

Mine showed up this afternoon and for the first two hours I was busy and couldn't take the time to talk or hear anyone in the house. Loved the 'Vegas coverage show coverage gives me some good ideas and news about what everyone else is doing.

In '69 I bought a little '64Dodge Dart BY and like any respect 19 year old I just had to have a set of "Mag" wheels . But I found out very quickly that there were no manufacturers making 13x5 wheels with that tiny 5 on 4 bolt circle, BUT I could get Ansen to drill a set of Midget wheels with that bolt circle and they only cost me $140 EACH! And when they arrived I discovered that the center caps had to be modified with a few gentle whacks with a hammer so they would clear the shoulders on the lug nuts that actually stuck into the center opening of each wheel, (I did say they had a really TINY bolt circle) the other problem was that they were designed to use the drive pins and a pressure hat on a midget and the entire center diameter of each wheel was solid and a full 3/4" thick and with no "coining" or back cutting to provide some kind of cushioning you had to retorque the lugnuts every day before leaving home. I discovered this the hard way trying to find out where that annoying clicking noise was coming from. The real annoying thing was they were a raw machined aluminum wheel that required a lot of polishing at least twice a week.

I'd really like those "backwards" Halibrand wheels if the other side was correctly molded so they could be reversed like the 1:1 wheels could be used, for the Sprint car and Super Modified guys we'd be excited to see something new for us on the market. I wouldn't complain too much if they were to release a Buick engine, or especially a "Boss 429" as parts packs??

As far as I know it's the only kit that has a well detailed version of the Mustang II/Pinto front suspension, and those super wide rear tires but with a modern style diameter fit better under a street rod than using the huge Pro-Street size tires. In fact I've been able to get two of those BB II kits for the front suspension and steering set ups but definitely could use a couple more if I could get just those pieces it would make me extremely happy.

I would be extremely excited if they released either the Indy Winners multi kit or even better give us a re-release of the Kurtis Roadster Parnelli Jones car again.

If I remember correctly it is the one that was sold also in a dual car kit that also had the Parnelli Jones 1963 upright roadster Indy Winner. It also comes with the option (I hope anyway) to build it with the pushrod engine that Dan Gurney drove in the first run at Indy, and the other version is the DOHC Ford engine with the "snakepit" 180° headers.. There was another version released by IMC, but it was more like a slot car body than a detailed model, BUT I thought that MPC was the original release.

Just like the fact that the 1:1 had a four link rear suspension but the kit still has the same long ladder bars the other '32s had. But I guess if you to get ambitious you could use the nine inch Ford and the four link from the Foose pick-up. That motor will work great for putting a Ford engine in a Ford car. I'm even using one as a dirt late model engine and another for a 360 Ford powered Sprint car.