horsepower

There is usually a piece of tubing that runs from the upper right front corner of the cage and meets up with that stiffener that goes down to (through actually) the floor pan and is supposed to meet up with the X member in the chassis under the floor pan.

I've sawed the original axle from the front spindle and found a piece of sprue runner or rod that fit in the wheel then after cutting it to the right length drilled through it and the spindle that will let you press a straight pin through. I epoxy the pin in place putting it in from the inside of the spindle so the head of the pin goes against the backside of the spindle upright for a little more strength then coat the pin and the mating end of the replacement axle and push it on the pin and against the upright as tight as possible and usually use an alligator clip as a clamp to hold it in place then using a good set of snips or if you have a Dremel use a cut-off wheel to make a smoother cut. By doing some creative sanding to the end of your replacement axle on the surface where it meets the upright it's really easy to put some camber in the front suspension! Also and the pin makes it stronger than the original. For the rear its even easier, just shorten the springs on a NASCAR type suspension, or with leaf springs just move the rear (or both) ends of the springs to a higher on the frame mounting point, and in the rear of the springs just make a little longer shackle (don't forget to reverse the way it mounts) that was the way we did it waaaay back to even lower our street cars. And there's always the old lowering block between the springs and axle housing with springs that mount under the gear housing. You have a good job going on a popular project.

Alan, you can get flooring for a 1/12 scale dollhouse that is real wood strips on a thin carrier material and it is in strips about 3/16" to 1/4" and you can remove the ones you want and the individual "boards" are in varying length just like a real house. I bought a 9"x12" sheet for a wooden floor in a pickup bed because they can be aged to look like the ones in old Chevy trucks.

If that is announced as a future release there is going to be a rash of hospital visits for heart attack victims who were hanging on to their original issues so they could sell them at a higher than gold price and retire on their killings. Now all they have is some old boxes with brittle and bleached plastic that they paid a ridiculous price for because they're always going to go up in price.??

Still wish they would reissue the custom Ranger p'cup that was released. A little careful sanding and a little bit of Chrome foil and I make one of these into a pretty good looking midi truck.

I need to correct a couple of things I got wrong first the roof on the '34 Slammer modified kit DOESN'T have a chopped top,. BUT it is a three window coupe and it's an excellent top but to my knowledge I don't remember any of the AMT derivative manufacturers producing a three window coupe. And that Pinto modified is most likely the AMT body since every version after the release of the '71 sedan kit were all Runabouts but MPC did releases of both sedan and Runabouts, their '74 was a beautiful deluxe edition of a sedan with all the extra chrome and body side molding. But the latest release of a Pinto is a half breed of the '77-'78 runabout with the four cylinder, but it has the extra custom body panels from the AMT Pintera Runabout kit I believe was a '76 (I have a couple of untouched ones but the room they are hidden in hasn't been opened in about eight or ten years so I have to rely on my addled Memory. But the one I'm most curious about is the one time only issue of a Mustang II bodied Modified. If I hadn't had one I would have doubted its existence too, if it weren't for the interior tin panels that are still in the issues but don't fit any of the current releases and the only one even close is the Pinto but it will still have an extra rear panel that will only fit a body with a large rear window. I painted mine candy red over a gold base (same as my Pinto) but it came with just the number 6 even if it does look like the same font used in the Pinto's number 76. But I have a big ol' box of extra Mustang II bodies including a couple of the Gabriel Coupe with the wide body options that will make an excellent Speedway Modified that NASCAR experimented with for a short time. It was their answer to the claims about the coupe and coach bodies getting hard to find and someone's idea that the newer bodies looked too much like the North Eastern dirt modifieds.

Yep!! You spotted it!. I thought it was one of those tinted plastic hood leading edge protectors when I first spotted it. But when he placed it next to chrome grille it was clear (see how I did that?) what it was meant for.

It would be really great if some of the '60s - '70s 1/8 scale bikes like the Triumphs and the Trikes were trotted back out for us old fans

Actually fresh gel coated parts right out of the molds are literally as smooth as glass (pun intended) and are super glossy, but they WOULD have a few extra mold separation lines to deal with.?

Isn't that the same kit that was released in the late '90s as a chrome parts pak kit from Revell?

Looks like they have the lions share of the vintage Revell/Monogram kits, and if they keep to the prices posted they're cheaper than any of the other manufacturers. Must be because they aren't saving so much on having everything done in China.? Since they have the Nomad maybe they have the '56 Bel-Air sedan kit too, it might be hard to get everything to fit but it's the only Bel-Air sedan kit that was made it has a place in the market, not to mention it has a lot of good parts and pieces that can be used on other tri-five builds.

Didn't the Lindberg 1/8th scale competition dragster coupe make it into production in the late '90s early 2000s as a front engined dragster with a Fiat Topolino. Coupe body. Unless it was originally meant to have a different body.

I'm looking forward to this AND the Larson USA 1 hitting the shelves but I'm seriously considering taking the two four version of the small block in the '66 Nova Pro Street/Stock kit to make it a little closer to the 1:1 version of the Pro Stock version. Even though Grumpy played around with the big block destroked to fit in the 363 cubic inch limit simply because of the superior breathing capabilities and the factory aluminum heads. We had a local engine builder that put a few of these engines together using 348 Chevy crankshafts and he was building our engines for a limited super modified class but when the word got out what we had planned the rules committee instantly outlawed the use of aluminum heads, factory production or not.

That is a correct Chevrolet grille, but it's for an earlier year. The fenders are '67-'68, Chevrolet. The fenders won't work on the later trucks, their grille has the trim that goes around the front edge of the fenders. I found out when I was working at the counter in a wrecking yard and we had a guy searching for a pair of the early fenders and sent out one of the yard guys and he said we had a 68 that someone had put a brand new set of fenders on and even gave me the inventory number for it and it was a '68 truck so I had him pull the fenders and we wrapped them and shipped them. A few days later the guy called and said that they were perfect BUT they were for a '72. The guy who we got the truck from had bought a complete front wrap for a '72 because the earlier fenders were hard to find and just as expensive as they were hard. The guy understood and I learned that I would never again ship anything without looking at it first.?? the fenders for the '69-'72 Chevy are the same, and for '68-'72 GMC.

Didn't Monogram, produce a couple of big scale (1/10 I think) of some Pratt and Whitney aircraft engines? And Hawk made some fairly true to scale aircraft stuff, I think that they might have done one or two of those airplane powerplants too. Being an equal opportunity modeler I have a few airplane kits, it's true that most of them fly, and the majority of the plastic ones are racing planes it wouldn't hurt my feelings a bit to see some of those other kits hit the shelves. And there are some of the old Williams Brothers kits being re-released there are a LOT of model builders that would kill to see some of the kits for engine parts and guns they made for the airplane group.

Maybe somewhere in that pile of iron is the long unseen unobtanium 1/4 scale Dodge slant six engine.

Now THOSE I'd buy! Plus probably a few thousand others out there.

But didn't Round2 end up with the good Testors stuff?

The last time it was reissued a lot of them ended up on Big Lots shelves for $5 each, along with the '66 Chevelle wagon, dumb me I should have picked up every one they had the day I was in there.

That's just fabulous! It goes to show people that love, labor, and attention to detail can and more often than not beat out a cubic dollar restoration.

It still has some of the parts from the several different releases it's had over the decades. But the best way it could be released is if was still the double kit with the XR-6 roadster that it originally accompanied.

I don't complain about the prices on these very much. Before they started re-issuing them these were up in the stratosphere prices of over $100 like the Super Stock kits are still bringing. There is one of these that I've never seen re-issued, and that's the Mustang II hatchback version. In fact a lot of people don't remember that one and if I hadn't built it I don't think I would either. They were based on a promo type body I think since the hatch was part of the body instead of a separate piece like the AMT/ MPC versions were done. But I have a few bodies from the street and drag kits for making a new one, I even have one of the Cobra II bodies with the wide body fenders for a Super Speedway version of one of the Dick Anderson cars that Geoff Bodine and Ray Hendricks drove.

The engine in these is supposed to represent a 427 Chevrolet, or Ford depending on the valve covers used and the intake manifold, the big block Chevy manifolds had the mounting twisted this was supposed to equalize the lengths of the intake runners. Also most classes required that the fuel pump be mounted in the stock position, but a few that were open competition type cars used alcohol for fuel and back then the stock type fuel pumps were borderline for running alcohol in a small block much less a big 467 or thereabouts cubic inch engine and they instead used a belt drive fuel injection pump the only one that is a belt drive pump is the one from the Anglia and Pie Wagon kits with the injected Oldsmobile engine from Revell. There are some front cam drive pumps that you can use, just make a mount off of one head and run a belt drive from the top pulley on the water pump just remember they're a fairly small one in most cases and a dry sump oil pump belt and pulleys from a NASCAR oil pump could be used. These used a 1/2" i. d. Hose from the tank to a a fuel shut off in the drivers cockpit (some engine builders preferred the shut off be between the pump and carb so the pump would keep its prime and not be ran dry.) The line from the pump was usually a 1/2" i. d. also and would run to a fuel log that had two outlet hoses on the side that went directly to each float bowl on the carb, and from the back end of that tube would be a 3/8" i. d. return to the tank. You don't need to do any detail showing it but the return line came from an inline poppet valve that had a spring that would open to prevent the fuel pressure from running over 6-7 psi on the car we ran we drilled a hole in the needle from that valve that aligned with the opening in the seat that would only allow about 1-2psi fuel pressure at idle.