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whale392

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Everything posted by whale392

  1. Remember, the Mustang has a two-tone interior from the factory (Dark Gray/Light Gray), so I think the Tan/Blue could work if it follows (roughly, doesn't have to be exact) the same scheme as the factory cars. Just dull the blue down...semi-gloss for leather/vinyl or flat for cloth.
  2. We talking Fightertown or two-wheeled type Brian?
  3. I'm here to help if I can Brian !
  4. Eric, I had a guy at the local auto paint store mix me up a pint can of the DuPont Nason brand paint in this exact color..............the cost; some info on his Crown Vicky cop car. I figured 10 minutes of my time was worth $30.00 of paint!
  5. Revell 37 Ford Pick-up re-issue, MPC 86 El Camino repop, a whole poopload of Tamiya spraypaints, and a decent conversation with the counterperson/store clerk.
  6. You can drill out your distributor cap by starting with a #76 drill bit in a pin vise (handheld, finger-twisted mini drill) and then work up to the drill size just above the thickness of the wire you will be using. While everyone is saying 'Oh just go buy a pre-wired distributor', that is NOT the spirit of model building....any monkey with a paycheck can build a model that way. Skill is learned, not bought (off my soapbox now). Learning how to effectively use the bits/pin vise will open up a whole new world of detailing/scratchbuilding that can't be bought.
  7. Drybrush is when you dip your paintbrush into the color of paint you want, then wipe most of it off the brush (leaving just a little 'film' on the brush), then brushing across the part; it will deposit just a tint of the color you are applying. Doing this will allow you to vary the intensity and variety of shading applied to a piece, as well as pick out subtle details.
  8. Very nice build of a very often overlooked real truck. She is pretty.......I like it.
  9. Looking good so far Brian. Take a gold and drybrush the heatshields under the exhaust for some more added realism. Also, the gas tank shroud could be washed and drybrushed with various grays and blacks to give it the plastic look the real one has. Rims in Yellow? What have you got planned for the rest of the car (almost has a Penske Camaro vibe to it!)?
  10. Revell Vette snap kit Torques painted to look like the Bullitts. I have to agree, ditch the shopping cart handle. My 83 GLX vert doesn't have a luggage rack, and the smooth trunk looks sharp. Also, I see you don't have the 'intakes' installed on the body cladding right before the rear wheels......any reason? With proper detail painting; I think you can get a fairly nice looking finish from this one, just be sure to dull down the shine on those seats.
  11. I use the wrap from cigarette packs (and I don't even smoke). Why? With a little bit of glue thickness and a heavy brushing of black paint, it looks very convincing. Also, by using a thin layer of glue and some thin washes of color, you can replicate the heat insulation type stuff. By using the Goldish colored version of the wrap, you can replicate heat-stained turbo wrapping/insulation. Also, you can use the wrap (cut to the appropriate size/shape and glued in) as backing to accurately replicate reflectors when placed behind a lens. Handy stuff this cigarette box foil wrapping.
  12. I agree, the rear wheels and tires are great for other builds of that era as well.....worth it in their own. I have one going together with the Hemi, and another with an injected Olds. Then, I am combining the Tony Nancy Chassis research rollbar and T-body with the rest of the 'Hippie' chassis to build a model of dads 150" rail. This kit has great potential, and is a wonderful platform for kitbashes.
  13. It is a repop. Despite the fact that the chassis (multi-piece) is somewhat ill-fitting in the cockpit/backbone/downtube area and WILL be warped (easily fixed with a short section of 2x4, some zip ties, and some hot water), the rear-end housing having an area that is extremely thin-cast, and it has a goofy body cladding; there is actually a very nice FED of the 150" variety hiding in this kit. The Hemi (despite the valve cover breathers being cast at a completely wrong angle) is a very nice build-up, and once detailed will be a good looking mill. You will have to make your own body cladding, but it is a nice kit to start with if you want a vintage rail from the heyday of drag racing. Enjoy building it (I bought 4 JUST FOR THE CHASSIS).
  14. As you elude to, shaving the tread does two things...one: it prevents tread walk as you describe, and two: it allows the rubber carcass to heat up a little quicker FOR THE INITIAL BEDDING OF THE TIRE. This is done by completing a full run to get the tires to operating temperature and then removing them to cure back to a cool state, thereby re-aligning the rubber molecular structure and compound slightly to last much longer. This works well IN ROAD RACING.....not in drag racing. Slicks are 'burned' to get the thick rubber compound hot and sticky, not to 'bed' the rubber.
  15. Very nice looking bike. As someone who used to build and ride them (in 1:1 of course), it brings back some memories of some of my bikes. With that said, I see you actually have the top spring perch mounted to the bottom of the neck stalk.
  16. That is looking sweet!
  17. The chassis appears to be 150" or slightly longer. Most had gone to a 'Mag' or chromed styled wheel by the time the chassis grew to that length..........but it is your build and I think it would look good either way.
  18. Tom, I am a full time employee, full time college student, have 4 1:1 project cars I am working on, 2 1:1 motorcycles, and I work on friends cars on the side. Add to that scale autos, scale aircraft (mostly birds I worked on in the Navy/civilian field), and model railroading (1:87th scale)...my plate is terribly full! Not to mention my house and the biddings of the girlfriend.......only saving grace is I am 34, still young.
  19. I have the original issue of this truck, and I must say it appears that the sequal can in fact be better!
  20. I have tried soldering the solder together (with limited good results). I think the more I practice, the better I will get and the more realistic it will end up looking. I have tried the CA and epoxy glues before with very limited success; however it does work well when bonding them to plastic. And to elaborate on an earlier post; headers from side to side are most often times different to clear things like starters, motor mounts, steering shafts..........so I wouldn't worry if they are not an exact mirror of each other.
  21. Tom, you say these aren't forumlated like the ones from the late '90s to early 2000s? Looks like I had better get down to a gamer store and check these out then (great, now I have an excuse to rediscover yet another of my old hobbies!).
  22. Very clean builds of classic lowrider style (I dislike the term "Ol' Skool" because everybody uses it and most times incorrectly). I like them.........be proud.
  23. Loving this Dodge build (I see them not getting any respect in real life). I will have to find a longbed and do as you did.....make it short and mate it to a LRE cab.
  24. Very nice work so far. I am having a bit of trouble fitting mine (as I am trying to get three .062" pieces of solder to fit into one .090" hole......I am building a header set-up for twin turbos on an inline6). What are you going to use to join the 4 pipes together?
  25. A Dark Burgundy Metallic or Pearl maybe? Compliment it with a White/Red interior and a White GT350/GT500 style rocker stripe treatment?
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