ZTony8

Don't use decal softener unless absolutely necessary(and most of the time it's really not necessary).Compound curves are the most problematic but can be conquered by cutting darts in the decal or cutting it into pieces.

Score it as cheap as you can if you REALLY want one.The chassis design is compromised,the motor is slow,and the guide flag is too far back.The second series has been modified with,I believe, different wheel bushings and some other things( but not a relocated guide flag).

That Cosmic Charger bears a strong resemblance to the Scrima- Bacilek-Milodon Scrimaliner.One of the prettiest dragsters I ever saw in pictures.

Ah,I thought it was the 1/24th kit.The 1/10 stuff is for R/C.

What does the certificate certify? I've got two of the regular kits in my stash along with the other livery version.

We're all de facto kit collectors until they're built. I do have some kits that I MAY never build-a Gunze Sangyo Ferrari 250 GTO(all those multi media parts still give me the shivers),a Revell 1/16 scale Model T coupe from the 50s(I've never seen another one),and an MPC '71 Charger with the pre painted(fogged) body and those stupid "Wild Ones" parts. That Charger kit poses a dilemma for me.I've tried to sell it at shows with no success. I could build it but I'd have to paint because it's SO ugly with that black fogged tan body and orange interior(!).But if I paint it that would hide any uniqueness of the kit.I think my best answer would be to find it's companion kit with the fogged orange body and tan interior and kitbash the two kits.

In perusing the Round 2 site I noticed that the Wynnscharger dragster is scheduled for release this coming autumn.This is cool if it's really the Garlits car and not the Young American in a different box(the front of the frame,front wheels,and axle are slightly different).First time back since the 70s I believe.

I've got over 10 of the Tamiya Peugeot 206 WRC kits in their various iterations,seven of the Tamiya Porsche 956 kits(plus three of the 962s),five of the Revell '49 Mercury and at least that many of the Revell '57 Chevy 2 door sedan(the new tool kit,not that old monster from the 60s).

Nice color-it suits the car. I have the kit only because I got it cheap.I think it's one of the dumpier looking cars I've seen.I think the XJR-15 was much nicer looking.Wish they would have kitted that instead of the XJ-220.

Traveling up I-75 last Saturday near Great Lakes Crossing mall(you fellow southeast Michigan guys know where that is) I passed two Dodge Challengers with manufacturers plates.They were obviously factory pre production 2015 cars.Took me a moment to see how they were different from a 2014 version-the front grille is reminiscient of a 1971 Challenger grille instead of the current 1970 style grille.The taillights may also have been different but I'm not 100% certain.

All except the Beetle and the Model T had several very different versions so this is really a list of best selling nameplates.

I still prefer TS-13 over the Testor One Coat(non one coat) clear.It sprays thinner and once the cure time is considered it comes out great.I do prefer to use Testor clear if spraying over decals.

I've been succeesful in polishing uncleared metallic on more than one occasion.Maybe I've just been lucky.

Quick and dirty method(I use Tamiya paints):Spray a gold,silver,or copper base.Silver lightens the color,Copper deepens the color(see the Mazmanian Willys gasser).Then use transparent red over the base color in very light coats so as not to make the paint run(I found out the hard way)-the transparent paints are VERY thin.

I always marvel at the builders who can drill 6 or 8 holes(plus the coil wire hole) in one of those kit caps.I've tried the pin vise method and all I succeed in doing is drilling several crooked holes in the cap and never have enough space to make all the required holes.

If you're using Tamiya TS-13 wait at least four weeks(preferably longer) before applying it over your base color.It has a different cure rate than the colors and WILL crack if applied too soon. Those louver decals aren't as bad as they look.I did one of the older Skyline GT-R race cars with that same situation.I was prepared for difficulties and was pleasantly surprised when nothing bad happened-and I didn't even need any setting solution to make the pieces snuggle down!

I'll have to check my references at home to be sure but I'm almost certain that this car,along with all the other 250 GTOs, has been crashed at least once in it's life.Some were wrecked so badly that everything but the serial number plate was thrown away and a new vehicle was built underneath it.

Cars are meant to be driven,regardless of price.You think the first few owners of that 'Cuda worried about denting it? I doubt it.

People don't want to hear it (especially relatives of people who died at the wheel in car crashes because of some irresponsibility on the part of the driver who was killed-passengers are another issue) but sometimes the drivers ARE culpable in these accidents because of excessive speed or drunk driving or not having the seat belts buckled or some combination of these factors.If something on a car malfunctions or breaks while the car is in motion the driver needs to be able to try to get the car stopped and/or out of the flow of traffic. The fact that a company would knowingly cover up knowledge of substandard parts is a completely separate issue and reeks of inbred corporate stupidity and a "save the company money above all else and at all times" mentality.

It's been said that Karmann invented rust and licensed the process to Fiat. BTW- If you ever see a Karmann Ghia that doesn't have the two chrome moldings along the body between the wheels that's a sure sign that the body's had rust "repairs" done in that area. Also-the styling of the Karmann Ghia was derived from a Chrysler Corporation show car from 1952-53 (whose name escapes me presently) also done by Ghia.

I often just take off my regular glasses when I do my model building,sometimes I upgrade to my reading glasses when I feel the need to do so.But when I wear my magnifying visor I have to play around with different combinations of the glasses,no glasses,higher power magnifier lens or not on the visor.Sometimes it's just a big pain.

An observation about that Mustang display.In 2012 and 2013 there was every variation of Mustang there-except one.There was no SVO !Is it the red headed stepchild of the Mustang world?

Make sure you stop at Pastiener's Auto Zone on the east side of Woodward just north of 14 Mile Road.No,it's not an auto parts store,it's car nut central with car books,videos,magazines, and models(a few kits but mostly die cast and other pre builts,many foreign).They also have free hot dogs,pop,and other snack goodies. I always walk the cruise( in stages). I'll start down at 9 Mile road in Ferndale.Don't ask me why I do that because Ford has a large display area there and I'm not really a Ford guy.Glutton for punishment, I guess.If you walk west on 9 mile west of Woodward there's a little bookstore on the south side of 9 Mile called the Library Bookstore that always has some interesting old car books for sale.Then I hop in my car and go up to the 14 Mile/Woodward area to begin the second phase of my walk.I'll walk down to the Belmont shopping center at 13 & Woodward to see the Chrysler display and also a park on the other side of the street.That area(13 to 14 Mile) is the heart of the cruise and,as such,is VERY crowded and navigating it on foot is tedious. Then I'll walk up Woodward and cross over to Old Woodward in Bimingham to see the cars displayed along the street. Do bring a chair because if you get tired you can always find a spot to sit.Or,if you choose,just find a spot early along Woodward and watch the world's largest moving parking lot masquerading as the Cruise (the southern end of the cruise south of I-696 is far less crowded but fewer cars go there ) I've heard that the area around Pontiac is very active(though I've never been up to that area for the Cruise).The area between Birmingham and Pontiac is rather inactive as it's a high income residential area so there aren't too many places to see the cars.PM me for further details if you'd like to do that.

Speaking of progress-many people in the 1910s thought that 4 wheel brakes would lead to a loss of steering control so that's why most of the cars through about 1928 had only 2 wheel brakes and many of those were external contracting brakes.My 1927 Chevy has that set up and,believe me,you don't want to be caught driving it in the rain!The parking brake(inside the drum!) works better for that.

Looks nice in the pics.I've had good luck lately with Tamiya TS-14 black.It goes on smooth and stays shiny needing little,if any,polishing afterward.