charlie8575

I can believe that. A lot of those cars got field conversions. Notes to keep in mind for next time. If you decide to do a Slim Jim in a future release, Dave, I have a couple of people I can get you in contact with that might be able to help you with reference material in the form of real transmissions. Let me know or pass it through Art. Charlie Larkin

Do the proposed 4-in-1, and I'm on board. Movie car- no thank you. Never seen any of those movies, no real interest, and as Steve said, man is that thing gross. Charlie Larkin

I thought EXPs were extinct! Those rims look good on it. Charlie Larkin

The grey trim is usually semi-gloss black that faded. Most of these cars, as I remember, had black trim from the factory. Good luck with the paint. Charlie Larkin

Looks great, Ron. Charlie Larkin

Nice decal sheet; I'm not sure how authentic a lot of it is for the police markings, but it looks good, and that's a major start. I see they're encouraging the green interior. A thought for future kits might be die-cut painting masks in lieu of the pre-colored decals for added flexibility. I'd like to see a couple of more pictures of the body. I was at STS yesterday (well, Tuesday afternoon,) and non-PPP shops will be getting them starting June 30. I have mine on order, and should have it before the end of next week, if the ordering plan works as they anticipate. Chuck- thank you for the kind words. Charlie Larkin

Use the underpinnings from a Revell '66 GTO. Use the 4-bbl. from the MPC kit for the correct intake set-up (no tri-power in '67.) The front seats are from the '70, I think. Modelhaus and at least one or two other casters offer the correct '67 seats. Charlie Larkin

My point exactly, John. Charlie Larkin

King Arthur, Men in Tights, correct? My cousin insists it's the funniest movie ever made. I'll have to watch it sometime. Seriously, though, the end line in the clip is SO true. Yes, it's a business, and for many of us, yes, it's a passion, not just a diversion from day-to-day existence. But we do sometimes lose perspective. This doesn't mean we should never call out major problems or inaccuracies or other serious errors. It does mean we sometimes lose perspective, and, I'm actually rather sad to say in this case, civility, when several people I not only have a lot of respect for, but personally like, start to argue and dig at each other like a bunch of my former eighth graders during a cafeteria fight. At least in theory, we're adults. Two contrasting points of view have been presented here that make perfect sense, especially when used together. Monty's quite correct, I think, in that we need to stop being afraid of running people, especially the manufacturer's management and other associates. These folks know some criticism, good, bad, articulate and useful, or blathering and churlish, will come. I think most managers are used to this. However, Lee also has a very valid point- sometimes, it's best to sheath the swords, and remember the pen (or in this case, keyboard) can be more destructive, and use them with caution and make some attempt to ensure that the words coming from them are courteous and respectful. I'm going to run down to my hobby shop on my way to Boston this evening and see if the DelRio has finally landed. If it has, I'll be sure to post some pictures within the next thirty-six hours. In the meantime, to paraphrase Ron Burgundy, keep it classy, MCM. Charlie Larkin

Picked up the '69 Friday. Very nice product. Question regarding two-tones: Assuming the combination two-tone (i.e., black/white/black,) would the inside of the box be black or white? Charlie Larkin

About the only real knock I have on this one is not molding the transmission separately and offering the option of a Hydra-Matic. I don't think there's any correct Slim-Jim available, unless it's in something really old that frankly, won't be up to the standards of this kit. That aside, this is really nice. I'm very much looking forward to this one. Charlie Larkin

1. Strip bumper of chrome. 2. Fabricate guards. Yes, I agree we shouldn't have to, but we have to. Deal. 3. Send it to Chrome-Tech of Little Motor Kar Ko. for plating or see if you can Al-Clad it successfully. I have seen one fellow of Facebook use Dupli-Color Chrome paint over gray primer with incredible results. If you want to give it a try, go for it. 4. Build the rest of the kit, or keep it in the box for 20 years like everything else. 5. Add the bumper at the appropriate assembly. Or let it sit with the rest of the kit. 6. If you want to do a service to your fellow modeler, consider sending the bumper to Rep & Miniatures or D.R.A.G. for mastering. Charlie Larkin

My shop does the following: If you belong to a club, you get a 20% discount on kits and 10% on supplies, tools and books (not magazines.) If you bring in an Internet ad/price, they'll try to match it as close as possible. Even if it's not as low, you still usually save enough to make up for not paying for shipping, and it usually arrives faster (orders in twice a week.) Plus, you get all the good stuff you expect at a hobby shop. They can compete. They need to want to compete. Charlie Larkin

The flag says the seller is currently away. Yeah, in another galaxy! Boy, that must be some good stuff he's on. I won't spoil anyone's surprise. Just look. Charlie Larkin

The 1985 Royale Brougham LS had taillights like those. And yes, you could order them without a vinyl top. Not perfect, but a decent representation. Charlie Larkin

I'll take one of each. Charlie Larkin

Nice scores, Ron, and very nice of you to do that for your uncle. My family is disappearing quickly, too. Try to spend as much time as possible with them. Re: the radios, are you going to try and get them functional again? I would think they're pretty simple transistor units. If you can get the bodies off, they'll probably clean right up with some compressed air cans and a maybe a little TV tuner cleaner. Charlie Larkin

Seems I ended up with the other half at most points of 2001-10 and portions of 2012, '13 and '15. They're called high school kids. Charlie Larkin

I used to work at a True Value right after I finished college, while looking for the truly good job that never showed up. Some days, I wish I had stayed, but I digress... The old grouch that managed the store gave me a very interesting piece of information. Want to see if you're getting apples to apples or apples to oranges? Look at the bar-code at items in two different stores. If the barcode is the same, generally, you're getting the same product. A lot of the big stores, like Wal-Mart, Home Depot, Sears, and so forth, will have companies make things to their specifications, and even if it's the same make and model of a product, it might be very different where it counts. Charlie Larkin

Nice job, Chuck. That sign looks great. Charlie Larkin

This especially. More-or-less what I was trying to say, but I summarized. The key to any pass-along will be quality. Quality of product. Quality of service. Quality of people engaged in the enterprise. I know a couple of people that could probably pull it off; I'm not sure if they have the financial resources, but I know they have the integrity Don deals with and, with a little training, can match his talent. D.R.A.G. buying them out- those guys have their hands very full as it is, but they, along with Greg Wann, are great examples of the type of people I'm talking about. Well, if I get run out of town after one term as mayor (assuming I get elected,) I may need to re-locate for my own safety . I can always do the molding and help with the show coverage..... Quasi-kidding aside, I'd love to do something like this, and with the right training, I think I could. Charlie Larkin Don't laugh, it could happen. I could seriously see him or Dave Burkett going for it. Charlie Larkin

Hmmm....might grab one. Charlie Larkin

The Koo-Koo Kar is kinda kool, actually. I might grab one, partially because I do kind of like Cuckoo clocks. Flameout has some interesting potential for a early fire engine. Or some other applications. '70 Monte? Good. Now I have one to put under the Revell '77 so I have a decent chassis. Charlie Larkin

I don't build a lot of metal models myself, but the best way to deal with the sink-marks in the tires is probably to position them in such a way that they're not visible. I don't think the vinyl (or rubber) can really be filled easily. Window frames can probably be replicated with either brass or plastic strip. Go to an auto-body jobber and see if you can get some All-Metal or Aluma-Fill for the body issues. The rough spots can be addressed with sandable primer like Plasti-Kote T-235 (gray) or the other colors. Sandable primer covers nicely and is good for evening out rough surfaces. Charlie Larkin

I would skip the etching primer. I've read some real horror stories with it not thoroughly drying and continuing to dissolve the metal. Sandable primer does an excellent job on just about everything. I'll be interested to see how this comes out. Charlie Larkin