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And the rear seat has fabric upholstery. and I have waited for someone to do the pattern as a decal since the kits first came out as it's not that easy to replicate with paint...but nothing yet.

I don't know how it will hold up yet, I did it just a couple of weeks ago and it hasn't rubbed off yet...and yes I have touched it after it was done...it doesn't seem to smear at all when it's fully dried. And as for "every day use"...well I don't drive this car every day, I only take it out in the summer when the weather is nice...right now in sits in a warm cosy garage. But if it rubs off I just do it over again...I have more of these markers.

The RoG Peterbilt's all have headache racks on the chrome plated tree, but they don't look like the one on the Optimus Prime. This type of air cleaners goes by the name Vortex Air Cleaners and I belive Mo'luminum had them them turned out of aluminum before, but Double Take Replicas has them casted in resin. The bumper is not that hard to do yourself from a piece of sheet aluminum as it's flat, but I have seen a seller on ebay who sells Texas style bumpers and he also sells Dropped Visors made from polished sheet aluminum. American Industrial Truck Models (AITM) has lots of resin parts, the Vortex Air Cleaners, a couple of headache racks, Fenders and lots and lots of other parts. http://www.aitruckmodels.com/pages/AITMcatalog2_16.pdf I don't know the status of P&P Resin Works but he used to have some of the parts you are looking for http://www.ppvintagekits.com/CARS/Resin-Price_list.html

I have used these pens on my real 1963½ Ford Galaxie 500 XL for the plastic interrior trim where the plating had wore off over the years, I even tested to repair just a part of the trim where the original plating was cracked and you almost can't tell where it's done when you look at it now. I have also tested it on some model stuff and I'm happy with the results so far, it will not replace Bare Metal as you can do that over and over easily without damaging the paint, but it's for sure a complement...and it's easier to use than Alclad II. The smoother shinier surface you start with the better chrome effect you will get, let the paint flow from the pen to the surface and I found out if you blow on it slightly just after you put it on it clears up instantly and gets very shiny. This will not work well on primer or any other surface that's flat and absorbs the paint, the finnish will be just plain silver, the surface has to be smooth and shiny from the beginning to get a good result. Here is a couple of pictures of the plated plastic interior trim on the door panels on my Galaxie. Before the Molotow treatment: After a couple of minutes use of the pen:

Remember that the Hemi's were two different orange colors, the early 1964-65 Race Hemi and 1962-64 Max Wedge engines were Race Hemi Orange wich is a bright orange color towards the yellow side, and the 1966-71 Street Hemi and the Hi-perf RB engines were Street Hemi Orange wich is a darker orange more to the red spectrum. I don't usually use Tamiya colors other than the TS range for bodys and I have never looked for engine paint matches from those, I prefer to use colors for real engines from the local speed shop instead and you will get the correct shade.

I prefer the 1950...I just love the dash and most of the other things on the '50, the dash is the same on the '51 but I don't like the bulky grille, the rear window opening and the rear fender extensions on the '51. The AMT 49 Mercury are plentiful on the market even if it might be discontinued (it's still on the Round2 website tho') it has been re-issued often with mostly the same content and are not that expensive. AMT's '49 Ford had an early Cadillac engine as the option engine, it also fit quite well in their '49 Mercury. The Ford/Cadillac conversion was so common that it got a name, "Fordillac" As for the Revell Parts Pack Cadillac 354...there are no Cadillac OHV V8 engine with 354 cubic inches displacement so I don't know where Revell got that number from, the Cadillac engines were 331, 365 and 390 for the '49-'62 first generation OHV, the Redesigned OHV from '63-'67 was 390 and 429 and the '68-'76 OHV was 472 and 500.

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Lots of people go too close when they are trying to show a detail, most camera lenses has a focal point, a distance where it can focus for a sharp picture, go closer than that to the object and the camera can't focus on the right detail and the focus in the picture will be further away from the object you want to show. Most lenses has a marking to tell what that distance is, for a standard digital 18-55 lens it's usually around 28 centimeters/0.9 feet, I use a 28-135 lens on my Canon EOS 650D and the closest I can go with that lens is 39 centimeters/1.3 feet for the camera to be able to focus on the part I want to show. Another thing, use as small shutter as possible for a good depth of field when you take pictures of models, otherwise you sometimes woun't get the whole model in focus. Todays digital cameras also has very large picture resolutions, that means you will get a large picture on your computer screen and you have to re-size it so you can see the whole picture on the screen, so you can cut out the part you want to show from an original picture of the whole car in a photo processing program such as photoshop, keep the size or re-size it a little and you will get a good clear picture of the detail you want to show for example here.

I don't know if they can do that, I think the tooling was changed to the International Transtar II Eagle back in the mid 70's, one version of the Transtar II had the air ride suspension from this one but it was later changed to walking beam. But they should be able to do the Transtar II Eagle tho', I don't think it has been reissued much since then. By the way...Nice build Ben.

Great start. Regarding the "super saver" wide rear tires...well I have really never liked the look of them on a tractor...I prefer dual mounted regular tires...it looks more sturdy and truck like...but I'm old and stubborn. One big disadvantage with the wide single tire is that if you blow a tire you can't roll on to someplace safe to stop without destroying both the tire and rim, with a dual mount you can still go on slowly and get out of the way if one of them blows.

Revell was out of sync when they did their then new TF kits, first they did the Don Garlits Swamp Rat XXIX wich was one of a kind as no one followed with the style but it was quite correct, a couple of years later they did Joe Amato's Valvoline Dragster, the Late Gary Ormsby Castrol Dragster and Lori Johns Jolly Rancher Dragster, they pretty much had to start all over with new tooling as almost nothing was usable from the Garlits kit but they were correct for the time when they came out. After that Revell didn't keep up with the fast evolution in the Nitro Classes during the 90's and didn't update enough when they did the following kits, they updated the tooling some when they did the Darrel Gwynn Mopar Dragster, the Eddie Hill Pennzoil Dragster, the Christen Powell Royal Purple Dragster, the Joe Amato Superman Dragster and the Shelly Anderson Parts America Dragster, they did some more when they did the last two kits from this tooling the Kenny Bernstein Budweiser King Dragster and Tony Schumacher Army Dragster back in 2002, but not nearly enough for them to be correct. It's unfortunate that they didn't care to upgrade them to the correct specs back then, because if they had they would have been pretty much up to date even by today's standard 15 years later as the visual changes after that on Top Fuel Dragsters has been quite small. The most visual things they had to change except for what they did was to fix the front and rear wing configuration, change the Mallory Super Mag style magnetos to larger MSD Pro Mag 44 magnetos, do a set back 14-71 blower configuration in bag, change the Enderle style fuel pumps to Sid Waterman style Mega Bertha pumps, change the cast aluminum valve covers to sheet metal titanium valve covers with spark plug covers, do a belly pan, do a shield over the back of the roll cage and new wheels...not that much huh. Now later they could possibly have done a "Schumacher canopy" and/or a larger wind screen...preferably both so one can choose the style.

A Chevy Small Block intake manifold should be possible to modify as they are similar regarding runners and thermostate housing, the intake manifold on the Mopar LA engine doesn't go all the way back to the distributor as the CSB intake does, but one can cut off the rearmost part from the CSB intake and modify it a bit and it will most likely fit.

Malone used Peterbilt bumpers on the transporters.

If you with "Bandag Branded" mean the Bandag Bandit and The Hideout Truck, I think they will most likely follow as they are based on the same tooling as the Papa Truck and Super Boss, the Bandag Bandit has some parts different from the Super Boss and of course the decals, but the only difference between the Hideout Truck and the Papa Truck are the decals. Otherwise the Super Boss is the only one of them with Thermo King decals as it was first issued with them, the second issue had Bandag badges on the doors same as the other three as the decals got changed when the others were released, and now the latest Super Boss issue has both decal options on one sheet.

The grille on a real 71 Barracuda goes all the way out to the corners outside of the outer lights, so the slot openings under the outer lights are not supposed to be there but are on all Jo-Han bodys...so fill them in, I did on mine. I think they are there just to get the body out of the mold easier, Monogram solved it another way and had panel separations were there are none on a real car, Monogram put them on the front fender in front of the wheels from the bumper all the way to the wheel well about where I have the separation between the red and the white under the Valvoline decal...so that's not right either.

The Australian resin company The Parts Box has one, it's a resin wing and material for the end plates and you have to manufacture the mounting points yourself...the wing is a bit wide but can be cut down. They also have 3-element rear wings...all the Revell kits only have 2-element wings but the racers changed to 3-element in the mid 90's so you need 3-element wings to do a modern Top Fuel Dragster too. The part number for the wings are 1158 for the front wing and 1159 for the rear. http://www.thepartsbox.com/store/index.php?page=browse&action=list&orderby=DESCRIPTION&group=6&cat=7

I usually use Super Clean to remove chrome plating, it takes care of both the plating, wich you see dissappear right before your eyes, and the base coat.

Scania did introduce a new cab recently back in August so it's must be a model kit of that. Hopefully they will go all the way and update the chassis to modern specs too, the engine in all Italeri Scanias up until now has allways been the DS14 wich came in 1969, but Scania fased out the last version of the 14 litre V8 in 2001 (yes 16 years ago) and it was replaced with the DC16 V8, and the DC16 looks totally different from the DS14.

Yes, the TV series truck was a 1974 VIT and the AMT W925 kit origins from 1971, the cabs are slightly different. But you can do a more correct TV series truck from the Revell AG W900 and a short hood from either the Revell snap W900 or the AMT W925 kit,,,or cut down the long hood from the Revell AG kit, you also need a torsion bar suspension, an Auslowe Cummins V903T (at least one TV truck had that engine), decals from Modeltruckin' and you are on your way. I will for sure get this truck when it comes out as I have several plans for W900's...and the AMT Movin' On truck was the first truck kit I ever built.

I think Ken Kitchen has one. https://public.fotki.com/KenK/kitchen_table_resin_kits/ford_ohv_6_resin_kit/

Looks nice!!

Well the BJ And The Bear truck is a logical follower to the Tyrone Malone Transporters as they share the same base tooling. But if you want to do the BJ truck right now the decals can be found at Modeltruckin'.

I would use the AMT 71 Duster chassis, it's also an A-body and is much more detailed.

It's not only the sleeper that's wrong for the TV series truck. But you can get the correct 60" sleeper from the Revell AG Kenworth W900/T900 and decals from Modeltruckin', the TV series truck also had torsion bar suspension and at least one of them had a Cummins VT903.

Well the Papa Truck hasn't been out that often, once for a couple of years back in the early 80's, and likewise for the Hideout Truck, I have two each of the original issue (I bought one Super Boss and one Papa Truck back in 1982, the others I have bought later) and the content are the same, I haven't recieved my new Papa Truck yet but I believe the differences are the decals and tires...otherwise it's the same as the original. The Super Boss Thermo King version was announced the first time in the 1978 catalog, release date September. The Super Boss Bandag version came in 1981, with a changed decal sheet. The Papa Truck was issued the first time in 1981. The Bandag Bandit also in 1981. And finally the Hideout Truck 1981 They were in the catalog for 1982-83 also and I don't know of any re-issues after that until now. But the base kit, the Kenworth K100 Aerodyne, has been out several times, as the BJ and the Bear truck (I don't have that one), a couple of other generic trucks (wich I have) and I think the frame rails are different lengths, otherwise they are the same as the Malone Transporters except for decals, transporter body and tires.