Bowtienutz

replicas and miniatures company of maryland makes em http://www.ebay.com/itm/RMCM-resin-1-24-1-25-LATE-MODEL-HEMI-M-T-VALVE-COVERS-/140590303297?_trksid=m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D31%26pmod%3D230576845267%26ps%3D50

Seeing that you've got the engine looking like it's torn down between rounds may I suggest you build a diorama. you can show off the bare block, other engine parts scattered around on different work stations. and you wouldn't have to deal with the actual hookup of many sensors, fuel lines, oil recovery lines etc. Like Gareth said you could drive yourself crazy trying to make everthing correct and complete.

Not Sure what a "Mad" dual distributor is. I'm assuming it's a dual plug hemi. Each clyinder had 2 plugs. This was something the Chrysler Pro Stock drag guys used in the early 70's. Like all neat ideas NHRA outlawed them for competition after a time. The engine according to the rules allowed a certain amount of engine setback measured from spark plug to spindle centerline. This allowed the DP Hemi to be set back maybe another inch and a half. Weight transfer means alot in drag racing. Dual distributors actually Magnetos are still used in Alcohol and Nitro engines because of the burn rates of the fuel among other things. Wire each distributor using the firing order for a hemi. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, Left Bank 1-3-5-7, right bank 2-4-6-8.

Couple of links depending on your skills Ford, Chevy, & Dodges http://public.fotki.com/VincePutt/semi_truck_shows_/ If your really into something wild http://public.fotki.com/VincePutt/scale-modeling-1/cnc-project/hauler/ if your limited in your skills JeffB @ Motorcityresin just came up with an early 70's Ramp truck that looks pretty nice.

Nice and clean look there Scott. Fitting the tub on the model is alot tougher than the real thing. the technique i use is very similiar to fitting the real thing. just not as easy because it's hard to measure and you can't crawl around inside. I attach verticle section of the wheel tub and an old business card marked every 1/8 inch then start measuring and marking the business card. trim it and test fit. when I'm satisfied I cut the plastic. works good for me. Take a look at this How real tubs are fitted. http://www.swracecars.com/Files/pdf/wheel_tub.pdf

Nice Idea Scott, I'd like to see a technique used to fit the wheel tubs tight to the body.

I didn't mean to get off topic but I was adding a commet to make a point that the new Manx kit could fit in the same category as (ready for trash), if you didn't do the basics of test fitting, scraping chrome, a little sanding and such the engine would never fit together right. As far as the wheels and tires go, I really like cragar SS mags when I put it together with the kit wheels and tires (personal preference) I didn't like the look. The front tires I felt were too tall and the rear street tires were to not wide enough. So I decided to swith to the Cragar SS mags from the Baldwin motion Camaro along with the rear tires. For the front I found that the Monogram PS front tires gave me a look I wanted. I then proceded to modify the wheel mounting to adapt the cragars to Vw Axles. (EMPI catalog didn't have wheel adapters for model cars )

Tanks John for the detailed how to. You demonstrated Exactly how to go about building any kit. Test fit all parts before you get crazy gluing stuff together and painting. I do this even with kits I'm familiar with because molds, Packaging processes etc. get sloppy. Don't take anything for granted. A cabinet maker would never just take his wood pieces and start slapping them together without test fitting things. Every kit is gonna have problems. It's hard to break bad habits but if thats the way you build you maybe you just take a deep breath realize you need to learn a new technigue. I just picked up the AMT Manx Kit and all I can say is if I didn't use the technigues John so well illiustraed the engine would be a glue bomb. Nothing fit without filing, sanding. and repeated test fitting. Now heading back to the bench to adapt Nicer wheels and tires to the manx.

What types of engines you interested in?

the slicks are from the Early Pro-Stock (Camaros, T Birds)& Funny cars, with the lettering removed. not the later Olds cars, 1 christmas tree just it the older style with lights on both sides of the tree. The wires and lines in my kit are molded in gray. (rivet counter moment..... the firing order is wrong)

Sorry you feel like that. It truly is a great kit and it can be built very well. I'll offer some constructive critism here in that You have to learn to test fit parts before you start gluing things together.with super glue and model cement. if it's a kit you've never built try asembling with white glue one your sure everything is correct in that assembly blow it back apart and assemble or paint. The instructions of the kit were in my opinion some of the best and some of the worst of any kit at the same time. hang in there don't give up on the manufacturer they are pushing the envelope on detail.

Tom Coolidge did a Single cab Stepside and Keith Scorsci did the crew cab from Tom's master Both are OOP but they were very nice.

Man that thing looks horrible, call that the Flodge, looks half Ford have Dodge With the Dodge part not being well done at all. Can't wait to see what Holthaus has done.

I've been a subscriber and NOT a subscriber for as long as the Magazine has been published. I'm tired of spending good money for a magazine that arrives with the cover trashed by mail handliers. I've been subscribing to digital magazines on Zino for 2 years now and love it. I love not having a digital version that I can access via the web, never loose a copy and don't take up more space.I can print out the pages I want if I need reference at my bench. Keep beating on Zinio Gregg they are the best digital publishers out there. Even your competition uses them. Sorry I'm not a subscriber of the best modeling magazine.I'd like to be again.

great build !!!

There are different sizes of pin vises you have one that is tooo big for the smaller bits.

PDF files are too large to work with any of those any other ideas.

Is there a way to translate a German PDF to English ? I found some PDF files of “modell fan” magazine with some truck articles but have found no software available that does a translation.

like everyone said only I wash it with warm water before. the water will fill glue joints. Also it will freeze faster than tap water. try that first thenput zbonder in the tough joints and repeat.

Nice Work, My father's first mixer he drove was a B model mack. Hope the wrecker body wasn't to damaged. It's a very nice Holmes that could be recycled to another project.

Drop me an email vincep@pa.metrocast.net

Throw em away they are junk the resin was bad when they were made and it wasn't mixed right.

Cappy When you take pictures if you would tape a ruler to the trailer, shoot parallel to the trailer. Walk parallel to the trailer moving the ruller as you go. Any photos shot at an angle screws up the geometry and makes it hard to draw scale drawings. If you email me photos With my phot etiting software and Drawing software I'll scale up and create drawings for a 1/24 and 1/25 scale to share to the group.vincep@pa.metrocast.net

Denins you have done a fantastic job on that Mack. I love that yo took the time to open the doors. Are you using the MCG piano hinges? I'm having abosulte fits making them work. can you post a how to ? If your using an alternative I'd like top learn how?

http://public.fotki.com/VincePutt/scale-modeling-1/model-car-shows/fulton-ny-2011/