Jordan White

Haha thanks guys!

So no FWD Cord L-29?

No problem, it's what I'm here for!

It's because you hit the reply button for that particular post (like I did with yours), which means that post will show up as a quote in your post. You need to look below the last post, for the larger dark blue button that says "add reply".

Which is more or less what I said in post #14.

Ugh, I just figured out that the Revell Jeep J10/Honcho kit is 1/27.5 scale, rather than 1/25 like they claim. No wonder my Dorothy frame is so big.

Alright, then I think it's the car that is being judged. There may be some cases of crooked judges voting for the owner, but I think it's usually the car. I can see what you're saying about company built cars vs. owner built cars, but I still think it doesn't matter. They are people too, and for all they know they are the best, which of course may not be true (just look at the cars West Coast Customs churns out!) Of course, people should know that their car may not win and just enjoy the show for what it is. Heck, the car doesn't even have to be insanely custom to win, which means an average Joe could build a winning car.

True, but building a model and building a 1:1 is a completely different ball game. Anyone can buy a kit and build it right out of the box (the quality may not be the same however ). Not anyone can just buy a real car and build it up. There's also the deal that a real car can, you know, be driven around whereas a model can either be shown at a show, or put on a shelf. Thus having a person that knows what they're doing building the car makes sense. You of course get people in both sets that have someone else do the work so they can just claim it as their own, but for the most part they are two different areas. 1:1 car owners want their dream car but may not have the skills to pay the bills, whereas a model builder will want to do the work themselves so they can make it their own way and show off their skills. Any more and I feel like I'll be talking in circles!

I feel that's different. Building a custom 1:1 show car is a large commitment, both in time and money. Building a show model on the other hand doesn't need as much. It may take a while to build, but it can be easily stored away when not being worked on unlike a 1:1. It usually doesn't take much money unless you're using a lot of aftermarket parts, in which case it's good to at least give credit. Plus, 1:1 car shows are usually more advertised and attended, and may offer cash prizes. Model shows are smaller, may not offer a prize, and shouldn't have a real reason to want to buy a completed winner unless the person just is seeking acceptance.

If they claim to have done the work themselves, then I consider them dishonest and don't think they deserve an award. However, if they say that someone else built it (either for them or it was the previous owner) then it's not a big deal.

Yeah a few weeks back I saw an older Volvo wagon with the rear fog on. I at first thought that it had a taillight out, but then I remembered about the rear fog (and it wasn't even foggy!)

Yeah the rear fog lamp is kinda weird IMO. Course it may be due to not having them in the US, but it seems like it would make more sense to just have both sides be brighter than normal, otherwise it would seem that the person has a bulb burned out or something!

It's the new Nissan Juke. If they made the front end a little bit more conservative, it actually wouldn't look too bad.

Hey now, nothing wrong with that! That's a Boonie Bug, a kit car based on the VW Beetle. I've always wanted to get one!

Anyone get started yet? I've been working on the chassis by fixing the axles and giving it a spring-over axle conversion to give it a bit of lift. I've also used a set of stock wheels from the AMT F-150 with the Jeep kit Goodyear tires. Since the wheels are slightly smaller than the openings, I had to create some thin rings to go around the outside of the wheels to get them to sit right. I've also modified the kit rollbar, grille guard, and fabbed up the correct rear bumper. I should be getting some pics up by this weekend. I also plan on starting the frame for Dorothy I.

I also did the "little tube inside the big tube" for my glasspacks. Mine however are the header style, so I added a flange to one end and a turndown to the other. I find the easiest way to make a turndown is bend the tube at like a 60 degree angle and cut through parallel to the muffler body.

Here's the B&M Megashifter I built for my F-350 Dually.

According to IMCDB, it was a '77 GMC K-15 which would have had a GM 10-bolt front axle and NP205 transfer case. GM 10-bolt: (it had a passenger-side differential) NP205:

This was a quick rebuild I did of an older kit. Wasn't my best work, but I just wanted to get it done.

Haha I'm sure I'll easily be surpassed by some of the other guys here!

I've decided to change my entry to a 1980 Ford Bronco XLT Sport, since it will be an easier build than the two trucks. Basically it will be the 1994-1996 Bronco XLT Sport package applied to the 1980 Revell Bronco, with appropriate mirrors and side steps.

Finished my '93 Cobra, and have been waiting to post it.

Haha I'm sure it alluded to Raccoons, though the city has gone down the tubes somewhat. I'm gonna try and get some more done next week when I'm back home from my vacation.

Haha thanks guys, it was a quick build but I think it turned out great!