-
Posts
9,490 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Everything posted by Foxer
-
One for the fans of big Citroens
Foxer replied to Earl Marischal's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I think the Yugo was beyond what the Big Three was feeding us. -
I didn't do this right away .. but got a 50% .. I'm happy I'm not a complete dorky engineer eheh
-
One for the fans of big Citroens
Foxer replied to Earl Marischal's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
yeah, neither knows what to do with the back of a roof. -
Citroen 2CV Fourgonnette
Foxer replied to Chillyb1's topic in Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
cool subject and story ... well done weathering, not overdone. )) -
A rookie from the cold north of Sweden
Foxer replied to Sonny J.'s topic in Welcome! Introduce Yourself
I think your best bet is what you suggest .. get a 928 kit for the body and a 944 for the phone dials. You said a 924 but the 944's have the phone dial wheels. Maybe there is a 924 with them, but none I know of. I have gotten them in Testors and Hasegawa 944 kits. -
A rookie from the cold north of Sweden
Foxer replied to Sonny J.'s topic in Welcome! Introduce Yourself
Welcome to the forum. There have been 928 kits out though maybe not the best, but workable. I do all the 1:1 cars I have owned including 5 024/928's. Those at least have engines. I'll check what those 928 kits were if you haven't seen them. or, here's an ebay search on them http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=porsche+928+gts&_catref=1&_osacat=2580&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR9.TRC2.A0.H1.Xporsche+928.TRS1&_nkw=porsche+928&_sacat=2580 -
whew .. that is looking good, though scary!
-
Allison Charger - pics replaced - more work soon
Foxer replied to Jantrix's topic in WIP: Model Cars
That beast is fitting in there well .. don't think it sits too high as it HAS to to fit that motor. It sits well even without engine considerations. -
I agree, what a great body not to be built.
-
Welcome to the forum, City boy.
-
That's what I call a fun build .. your first car! Mine was a '51 Plymouth (those black & white rainbows wouldn't reflect in the old paint) and a tougher car to find. I have a resin '49 with big plans .. eheheh
-
Beautiful, beautiful, beautiful!
-
Ahhh. . I though I had some photos of the Replicas & Miniatures distributors with the Vacuum Advance. These are the most accurate to the distributors I've had in various cars.
-
The Replicas & Miniatures ones do have the side ribs. This is one in the photo on this page. You do have to add wires, but so easy.
-
Next I tried Kit Basher's suggestion for headlight lenses. This is something I often find I could use rather than pirating lenses from a kit I'd rather leave alone. This especially would be good for those chromed lenses cast with the grill that get drilled out and replaced with clear lenses. I cast the lenses with RTV 2 part molding putty .. pretty simple. The Bondic does pop right out of these molds with no stick. These lenses were from the Revell '49 Merc Woody as was the vent window I also did to test the clearness of a Bondic casting. The vent window suffers from a not so perfect mold, but it has small "bumps" on the surface that whisk away with a light touch of fine sandpaper that is not appropriate for a clear lens. I think a clear window is probably not possible without more work to smooth the surface. A windshield is too big for this application. I touched one headlight lens with my fingers and it clouded the surface clarity. A coating of acrylic clear did bring most of it back. I advise not touching the surface at all when handling and putting a clear coat on right away so you can handle it. I really like this application of Bondic. It puts clear headlight lens in the hands of us all.
-
Finally! A use for all this thread I stole 50 years ago from Mom's sewing box for plug wires I don't have to use anymore! Very nice tutorial with all the facts. This will give a very clean line .. seems I can even add it to all the VW Bugs I've already built!
-
Cool one .. best home made I've seen .. and to think, I just got a shop vac!
-
Hmmm .. I believe so. For a window I don't think so, but you've sparked an Idea for me to try! I should also try casting a small window just to see how clear it does. One thing I've seen is the seam between application of layers shows so a window would have to be done with one layer.
-
That engine has Zing! .. gonna look great in that sleek body
-
I've been looking into ways to do a '49 Merc Woody with distressed wood .. her's a few links I came on .. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/?showtopic=71653 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/?showtopic=8081 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/?showtopic=51298 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/?showtopic=90111 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/?showtopic=88125 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=67415
-
Classic British Cars Kit inventory
Foxer replied to Matt Bacon's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
This all makes me want to get back on my Air-Trax TR4A ... if I could just figure how I'm going to do the front turn signals -
Really nice detailing on that .. lots of things there .. open vent .. and I'd like to know how you did the wood . looks like the perimeter was added wood or plastic.
-
I actually tried using Bondic to glue a broken windshield together but it wasn't a great success. It was too thin a piece though it did hold well until I started flexing it for testing. I think epoxy would be the strongest and safest to use since you say it won't be visible.
-
I decided my next Bondic test would be a Porsche 968 engine casting. I have some RTV silicon molds I made when trying to cast this engine in resin. The resin casting was a disaster with many air bubbles on the surface. I had cleaned that up with some putty but it never got to being satisfactory. The image below has the resin casting on the right and the original plastic on the left. My plan for the Bondic was to try to minimize the amount of material used in the casting as it seemed completely filling these large molds would be unnecessary. I started with a fresh tube of Bondic to try judging how much material it would take casting these four parts .. two engine halves, the valve cover and the front cover. I started by filling the deepest bottom areas and pushing the metal tip into the tight areas while releasing the material. I then continued to put a layer of Bondic across the bottom and cured it. It was easy to see areas I had missed by the reflections off the clear, shiny Bondic and the dull mold so I applied another layer filling in the bare areas and where I thought a thicker layer was desirable. This was all cured with the blue light. I then started to build up a layer along the side vertical surfaces and cured it. These layers were less than the 1 to 1.5 mm recommended maximum. I ran a bead of Bondic along the top edge and used a thin piece of sheet brass to level this out to the top of the mold. I cleaned off the brass with isopropyl alcohol which cleaned it off well. Below are three of the molds after placing the Bondic. I had run a sanding stick across them to level. This is one engine half That has missing areas when I took it out of the mold. I just placed it back in and added more Bondic to fill. It's difficult to see these parts when they are clear so I only put this one up. These are the parts with paint. I welded the engine halves together with Bondic before painting. Just a few dabs around the edges and hold together with the cure light in the other. I was happy with the parts and they were vastly better than the resin ones, but that was my first try at casting resin. The parts had some tiny bumps that I'm not sure from what. Possible tiny air bubbles from my working it into the crevices, but I'm going to have to look closer at this. I did clean the molds well before using so it's not dust. It seems like I may have used about 3/4 of a tube of Bondic making these parts .. and the handles and lights following .. it's difficult to gauge but it was taking more pressure from the end to squeeze material out on the last parts. I had some molds for door handles and side marker lights from a GMC van so I cast these too. The handle molds were incomplete so they didn't make perfect parts, but they would have if done in good molds. The lights I colored with a orange Sharpie and the surface texture shows well. I'm very pleased with the possibilities that casting small parts with Bondic offers over using resin for such small needs that seem to occur with many builds. It's quick and easy with no fuss or wasted resin for small jobs.