Foxer

That Ball of VW is pretty cool

I got the Heller 135 long ago in hopes of someday being able to put a body similar to the ones shown. It's still waiting for my skills to improve .. like most of my builds.

I remember it taking a long time to find a photo of an unmodified truck but this is what I found and based it on .. actually, looking at those fender wells and paint, it may be a custom.

Beautiful looking castings!

Welcome to the forum and back to building. I stress BUILDING, but I'm prejudice maybe .. I never saw a kit I didn't want to rip open and start scraping mold lines off the body! I'd give anything (well, not quite THAT much) for some of the kits I did back in 1958 when I began. I too took about 40 years off but now I'm back!

I was looking at BBodyBlues' A100 Van build and it got me to thinking about the A100 pickup that I had even gotten to paint stage before getting left for something more exciting at the time. The body got it's first coat of rust color before some hairspray and has been sitting next to my photo booth for over a year waiting for a shot! So, I did take some photos and maybe will get my buttt moving on this. At least it shows the piece in the rear left corner of the bed I made that encloses the fuel filler pipe. Looks like I got the cream color for the grill and bumpers on too. I started grinding out some rust areas and I'm going to go some more along the sides of the bed

If anyone deserves a pass on this, it's you, Tom!

Aoshima has been putting out a lot of wheels lately, I'd check them. Hobby Search is a good place to see what they have.

... but not until August 2015. This is being developed by SCS Software who publish Euro Truck Simulator 2. It will have American trucks and America, though it's expected the whole of America will be released pieces at a time as this is a huge area to create and detail! It looks like it will be very similar to ETS2 with new things added. Here's a video of an early Alpha version for you truckers to see. It's an hour long ... sounds like driving a long haul truck .. eheh. A short pre-release review. with photos

This material is too thick for this application I believe. The other methods of PE attachment are safe. This is not dental resin other than being light cured, but is what made me think it would be a useful hobby material. I'm sure dental resin is much more expensive. It is actually a type of plastic. It's probably time to test the use this was intended for .. gluing! I have a Subaru long roof with a broken D pillar. Might be a little thin for this but a good test.

Another test. I did a cast of the 59 caddy tail lights from the AMT Merc. I just remembered I didn't put the original in the photos but no big deal. I colored one red with a Sharpie and added some BMF .. quickly as you can see. The gloss as they came out of the mold got dulled by my tight grip on them as I drilled a hole for a brass rod holder. The Bondic wasn't as soft as I though when I drilled .. harder than styrene it seemed. You can see the dullness on the clear one. I sprayed a quick Testors One Coat on the red one to shine it up .. no reaction from the spray. The red one got a couple small air bubbles that must have been my stabbing the liquid with the applicator to be sure it went all the way into the mold. It shows in one photo as a bright white spot. Test Results: PASSED!

Looks good in clothes .. er, paint!

If you run into troubles on the hinges here's a working photo of brass pins I used on a pickup .. left the plastic and just drilled out for some pins. The pins haven't been trimmed here so I can take the door on and off while I build.

I like that different .. eheh flat black

Someone tell Art he has an ugly car.

I always had better taste than that. I didn't find it a requirement to use every part in the box on a kit ... my parts box(s) were full. Those are just bad builds by people that had no taste or knowledge about 1:1 cars. Since I keep seeing these I just wonder who ever built them .. even at a young age.

I think it HAD a truck .. but it dumped and left.

You got me hunting, Chris. I looked at Aluminite dye and it seems to be a pretty thick consistency. Probably too thick for Bondic as it needs to flow into the mold easily. And it would be a pin drop of dye. I saw Rit has been used to color plastic but after the fact. maybe it would work adding a drop to Bindic, but seems overkill for such small parts. I think just clear red or a Sharpie would be the way to do tail lights. I have some '59 Caddy lights I'd like copies of .. if I can find the kit they were in .. maybe the '50 Merc.

I'd only get one if it came with a Continental Kit.

oh my .. TAIL LIGHTS! Now that's worth a try .. thou I don't have anything to dye it with. Since it stays liquid until the light is applied, there's plenty of time to dye a small batch. I guess it only depends on how the dye would affect the curing. It the application if thick you need to either leave the light on longer or do it from the other side. Gonna have to think on what I can dye it with that's cheap and available. The aluminite dye seems a good candidate but a bottle would be too much just to experiment with. It is said to be good with clear resin.

you can't 'sleep' much more than that one! coolness .. .. maybe needs an Allison.

That looks just like my parts box! .. very cool!

Everything about this looks GOOD! Great detail

I'm glad you're posting this here. I've had Pirate ships on my mind wanting to build one in 3D in a game I spent a lot of time in called Landmark. It allows you to build whatever your mind conjures up in a 3D landscape. Watching your build come together will give me an idea of how a Pirate ship would come together. And, gonna be just fum watching .. looking cool so far.