Foxer

I really like the look of this ... the color detailing really sets it off!

Haha .. I'm a Structural Engineer and I spent my career telling people you may start designing a building from the roof down, but you CAN'T build it that way! Someone always proves me wrong! That does sound like a fantastic space ... once you get something to hold it up..

I LOVE lots of pics! Many times when looking at some build I'm left wanting for more. What went into a build is far more interesting to me than seeing a finished model. And why? .. lets see, "make you smile and perhaps gather tidbits for your own builds?" and "pretty colors" .. YES, YES, YES! And that support cradle ... THAT answers my question about the front! It finishes it off just right.

I have to create the door handle indents for the side doors on the van I'm making. A photo of them on the 1:1 is shown. I was planning to just use a piece of strip styrene for the handle which would be more detail than is on the kit. The indents really are needed for the look as they are very obvious. I have considered a few methods of making these but I'm interested in suggestions from people here. How would you do it? Just carving it into the plastic would be difficult to control as to shape. If I have to, resin casting is not out of my options as I think I'll be casting the hinges from other doors to make the 4 required on the new side doors I scribed Here's a photo of the door handles on the 1:1 van: If you need to see the plastic, this page of my Workbench thread has a photo of the kit body where you can see the front handles I need to copy to the side door. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=35282&st=40 Thanks for any suggestions ... I can use everything you all can come up with to contemplate this item to model.

Welcome in and enjoy your stay.

It's really pretty simple. I use a wide brush, dip it in paint and draw the brush across a cloth to remove almost all the paint. Then run it lightly across the section of model you wish to hit the high spots. Dry brushing is used mostly to highlight high areas of the model, like using white look like the sun shining off the high corners of something.

Your text coming after the photos threw me also ... I thought it was stock. The changes are well thought out and execution is beautiful! I would like to see more photos to take it all in.

Lots of great cars here I'd love to build. And I DO apologize for the Volvo comment...

It's good to have you back in our workshop here. Mr Bill. On this "return to the hobby", I think I found the secret to burnout ... never finish anything and work slow.. maybe one or 2 hours max per day. I think I might last this time until I'M put in a display case!

I got my start modeling in the Day of the Annual and those cars you see every day are the ones that remain close to my heart. Yes, I DO get all hot and bothered over a new Alpha and would love to see one. I know annual kits will never be again, but I still like modeling ... and modifying ... those "annuals" you see everyday. I'd love to see a plain old Audi ... any of them and could even be an S. I also NEED an Infinity G37, or Japan only Skyline if you please. At least Fujimi did the G35! Now, this should get the troops all up in arms .. an old Volvo wagon! .. maybe a 145 from the 70's.

I haven't finished anything this century

Maybe I'll try the same technique on the turkey tomorrow. I can never pack it back in!

Zowie! that IS nice.

I only meant the plastic bag I put the exhaust in after the wash that rusts it. This really works good .. adds much more rust and it comes out vari-colored. I tried it without the bag and very little happened, just small patches started to show something like rust. The exhaust has two coats. The only problem is it comes out shiny. Some Dullcoat fixed that. This is a good method to adjust .. no bag for minor rust and use a bag for Massachusetts!

hehe .. it will be more than a touch, you're defiantly right about that. I'll probably add some of the Sophisticated Finishes rust I used on the exhaust system ... just selected spots. There's much more weathering to do engine wise. I was surprised the india ink wash came out so glossy, but this engine was an oily mess, so looks good actually. I probably give it a shot of at least semi-gloss to tone down This whole thing will be a slow weathering process. I do weathering at the speed Mother Nature does it ... the Sophisticated Finishes rust scared me cause it happened so fast! I am considering using the salt method on the underside of the floor. The frame and suspension is already painted various blacks so it will get the dry brush rustification. (I've been unable to add the photos to the last post as it says it's been too long, so here they are)

Your steady hand is to be commended! I'm amazed at the interior and how it all pops for a black one.

I'm really liking how this is looking. Everything fits to the theme grandly. (don't forget the Strongbox! ) I'm wondering if you have any thoughts about how the front will finish off? It will need a radiator, so some kind of canvas hood or wooden radiator frame seems required.

The day before Turkey Day and I have a few updates! Maybe I can now take time to devour a bird and stuffing tomorrow! The hinges ARE progressing, but are still in the fab shop. Glue IS holding and one side is sitting on the brass rod waiting to be measured for any shims needed. Meanwhile, the exhaust system has been running in the environmental chamber which is set for New England Winter 5. The engine has also been "oiled" while testing the exhaust. It needs much more time in the chamber and everything is still wet. The seat jumped in after the first Bondo coating and shaping. The interior panels and dash are back from the second trip to the upholsterers and are looking good this time! They have one coat of semi-gloss clear and maybe will get another mist coat. The sheen is about right now I think.

I sure wish I was still living in Angola now!

I use a piece of hardware to calibrate my monitor to my printer. It's a Spyder 3 and may be more than you wish to spend for this. If you google "monitor calibration" you'll get links to many ways to do this by eye and many are free, but I find these rarely will get it as close as I need. Still, you will probably get it closer than you have it now. Like Harry says, though, matching your computer screens is nasty. If you calibrate each to your printer you'll get in the ballpark. Since my screen is calibrated to my printer, Harry would say all my photos are bad color when he looks at them on HIS screen!

to continue Kris' post .. there is a Revell kit available for reasonable prices on ebay. Just search SVT Ford Lightning there.

This is just to keep this all alive ... and to insure I'm STILL working it! The hinge problem isn't solved yet, we'll see when I venture down to see the last gluing. If this doesn't work, I'm off to get some fiberglass resin as m0parman suggests. For now, here's a shot of the door and body with the hinge mounts ready to accept. The taper gives the hinges flat and aligned surfaces to mount to. These I'm happy with though they will be more noticeable than the tapered plates mounting the hinges on the 1:1 van. Doing it exactly as the 1:1 just wouldn't give enough gluing surface and I'm having enough trouble in that department!

I don't know how I missed the start of this, but I like it! Good to see ya on the TV table ... errr ... bench, Charlie. Every time I've opened a '32 Ford box, even the first in the '60, I've admired the fenders and thought it would make a great build stock! It's good to see one getting done .. you might have the first stock deuce in the business! I really like the color scheme. It looks like it should be cruising Misquamicut Beach!

cute rat!

That's a nice one, Nick! The dents are really well done ... as is the rust. It's all VERY believable!