Chuck Most

Anyone know if they're still in business? I'd love to get their '50 Ford Panel transkit.

Just had the chance to dig through one of these up close and personal, and all in all I'm pretty satisfied with what I see. I can look past the inaccurate (but still very usable) frame and see the potential in this kit- I have to think that Revell knows practically nobody is going to use this to build a 1:25 duplicate of the real Rat Roaster. The only thing I don't like about this kit? That electic fan blade. Please, Revell, stop molding these to the radiator core! Make it separate or mold it to its housing.

Wouldn't the best thing to start with be the Model King reissue of the AMT '59 Imperial? I don't remember if that has the wells for the top bows, but I'm guessing it would, and those would need to go for a four door.

Same here. A modern SVT Raptor (even a curbside or , I dare say, snap kit) wouldn't exactly kill me, either.

The one where there's no inner sidewall at all? Yeah. Could be worse...

I've never gotten any glue or paint on the tire assembling the two-piece type, maybe that's just me.... Of course now that I've come right out and said it I'll routinely get glue and paint smudges on my tires when installing them on two piece wheels. You are correct about them being common to die cast model kits, and if you've ever taken apart a factory built diecast you'll see that many of them have the wheels engineered the same way as well. Personally, though, I don't see them being that much easier to deal with than a typical two-piece wheel. And there are some wheels (like the Revell '50 Olds) which are two-piece but still accept the tire via the ribs molded to the outside... wouldn't that type of design really rule out any simplicity advantage the one-piece wheel design might have over the typical two-piece design?

Grind off those 'paddles' and the Moebius wheels will fit inside a typical AMT/MPC tire- And to solve the problem of marring the sidewall, just push the wheel into the tire from behind- you still might scrape the sidewall, but it's less noticable on the inner side of the tire, and no chance it'll scratch up a printed or decal whitewall. As to why some manufacturers are going to that design... can't help you there. I've wondered what if any advantages attaching the tire this way has over the long-standing two-piece wheel.

email here- http://members.fotki.com/tomcoolidge/about/

Billy Gibbons! On that note... am I the only one a bit confused by the fact that Frank Beard is the only guy in ZZ Top who doesn't have a beard?

Mass produced? Yeah. 40 or more years ago. They aren't being mass produced now. I think if a car has managed to survive past used car middle age, some consideration should be taken against smashing it simply for the sake of entertainment.

Oh, yeah!

It's a shame that Corvettes only exist in myth and legend....

Love it for two reasons- first being you did a fantastic job on the buildup, and second, old OOP kits like this always look better built up than they do in pieces in a box.

I've only built the AMT version- I seem to remember a few rather minor fit issues but nothing that couldn't be overcome.

Yes, we do. Beautiful Galaxie- forgot all about the optional Cammer in this kit.

Perfectly stated.

Well... pretty much all the weathered models I build are 'mistakes' in some way or another. I don't have one specific set of techniques I use every time on every weathered model. That's one of the reasons I'll likely never do that tutorial everybody keeps asking me about. For me, it's a constant experiment, and I never really keep a close enough eye on all the variables. A lot of it depends on what degree of degradation I want to replicate as well.

Where do you work? Not saying there will be a break-in and you'll return tomorrow to find it gone or anything, just curious... Please do photograph the tires- I'm wondering how close they are to the 1:1 car's units. Heck, I'd buy two or three of these just for the tires if they're close- the rest would just be 'bonus bits'. Even if not, more than enough here to justify me buying a case. I can even get past the Chevy engine- I've got more than enough Flatheads to fill in.

Still can't be as bad as rebuilding the front end on an old Dodge truck that's been cobbled with parts from who knows how many model years by wanna-be mechanics over the decades... I now know why Mustang II IFS setups are so popular.

I don't get that... CAT will not allow anyone do put their name on something that actually represents their product, but they'll lend their name for use on the WORST work boots money can possibly buy. Can't follow that logic at all.

He's not lying- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_Norseman

Yes... YES.... !!!!

OR... move the axle forward. Or not bother... it appears that both of the Teague kits I have have the fender skirts properly located, so it's likely yours does as well.

Well, it's been almost a year and I haven't touched it. That 1% is killing me...

Love it! Yeah, the suspension mods may have ill effects on the handling (speaking as if this were 1:1), but seriously, how many Porsches are bought for their handling prowess? 99% of the time, it's all about owning a Porsche and nothing more.