iBorg

Even enlarged its hard to see all the detail. Mercy......mercy, this is sweet.

The scrapbook cutter is rather intriguing. One kind of file are you sending it? Also, what kind of cutter? Do you think it would cut thin .08 aluminum? Thanks, Mike

I know both kits fairly well.......REVELL by a ton. In almost every way, the Revell Camaro far exceeds the AMT kit. The AMT kit has its origins in the early 70's if not modified from an annual. The Revell is a mid 90's mold. You won't be disappointed with the Revell.

The bar keeps on getting raised. Can I take it down the strip or at least sit in it for a cackle.

CNC or freehand? The cover is quite impressive.

I keep on reading this post and keep on being amazed. As I've said before, this is a textbook. Not a W.I.P. Looking at the distributor I just couldn't understand what you were doing with it......mercy it looks good finished. How were you able to cut all the brass to the same length? Also, were the boots 3-d printed?

I like that photo...... my wife will hate it. The Bison has Arias Hemis.......great part source. The Flying Wedge, I've got the Kenny Goodell decals for (maybe). Baked off the Ivo AMT mold, it may be the best rear engine dragster chassis. The Prudhomme Yellow Feather will be interesting to see if there's any changes to the Garlits mold. The Trojan Horse is a reissue that originally had mediocre decals to go with an overall so-so kit, but its the only Mustang II FC in plastic. With two of those bodies you can actually create a good body. I showed how to modify the body here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/61064-blue-max-mustang-ii-now-a-wip/#comment-733283 Maybe one day I'll find my started build and find primer.

Last year, Doctordarryl or Darryl Peters showed some amazing builds of a couple of Don Garlits cars. He hasn't been on the forum for a year. Is he still around? Is he still active in the aftermarket? If so, can someone PM me his contact info.

Oh my...... That's a must have. Does any of the body remove to show detail?

Another great funny car build? This forum is great!

Could this be a centerfold subject? Absolutely THE instructions for how to super detail a funny car.

I'd give your money back.

I went to both Beckley and Huntington, WV today. It must have been the April 14th thing. Both store said they were selling quickly. I know my car had some plastic on the way home.

Concerning the rear engine/front engine debate, I was an active follower of drag racing from this period. A few thoughts. Before the rear engined dragster, the front engined cars faced severely declining popularity compared to funny cars. The fans filled the stands for funnys but did not for dragsters. There was even an article in Car Craft about the death of the top fuel class. Rear engined cars shot new life into the dragster class. If it hadn't been for that, the dragster class would have died. Already in the early 70's, many of the top top fuel drivers were running two cars, rails for national events and funnys for booked shows. There were several rear engined funny cars. Typically most were created by bucks down racers who were trying to create a better mouse trap to even the playing field. Rear engined cars were not highly successful. Jim Dunn had arguably the most successful car but after one or two seasons he went back to a front motored car. The reason most likely was to go to something that required fewer specialized parts. Others tried to follow with much less successful and sometimes disastrous results. In the late '90's, funny car performance was approaching top fuelers again. This was the era of the Bernstein Batmobile. There was some concern that unless a performance differential remained between the two classes, they would merge into one. At this same time, John Force announced he was considering a rear engined car. Force at the time was the dominant power in F/C, although he didn't have his current sized stable. To prevent Force from doing this and potentially closing the performance gap even more with fuelers, NHRA outlawed rear engined funny cars. They also enacted in this time frame a minimum wheelbase in top fuel to prevent funny cars from crossing over to top fuel.

Huntington, WV -Lindbergh F-150 trucks........wasted trip.

I have to agree with Bob on this, a Prudhomme kit is highly unlikely as Prudhomme licensing is quite difficult.....but if they are releasing a '72 Prudhomme kit, the wedge would be a huge hit and obvious choice. Looking at the AMT wedge box art (using the chassis that was the Ivo/Sand Dragon), it could be confused as the Prudhomme wedge. Is that where the list posted by Mr. Obsessive identified the Flying Wedge as the Prudhomme kit? The MPC Spirit of '76 car used the Garlits chassis. It is not the same as the AMT Flying Wedge. The Wedge was released with minor modifications as Steve McGee's Black Beauty. A build up of the AMT kit can be found here:http://coffincorner.proboards.com/thread/19410/flying-wedge Here's a build up of the Spirit: http://coffincorner.proboards.com/thread/19411/spirit-76 Which is the better kit? For myself, I'd pass on the Sprit car. I'd get at least three of the Flying Wedges.

Casey posted this "Is the Flying Wedge dragster officially dead now, similar to what happened to the MPC "Pepsi"-branded Vending Machine kit?" Checking a couple of online sources and they show due date unknown and out of stock. If the list from MrObsessive is correct, I'm making a strong guess that the Prudhomme 1972 dragster will be the wedge. The yellow feather would be nice as an option as would the reissue of the original Flying Wedge model. The Prudhomme wedge with the correct decals would be one of Round 2's biggest sellers unless licensing fees are so high that modelers would not buy multiples.

I took a look at the pictures on the net.......my mistake. The coupe Pacer looks like a wagon. The AMT Pacer wagon is an even uglier upside down fishbowl.

The Cheverra was an AMT kit. I don't have a clue how good the kit is. Honestly, I found the box art off putting. As for the MPC Wagon, MPC most definitely made Pacer Wagons. When this kit was released the hobby was much stronger and it was not uncommon for both MPC and AMT to offer the same model car in kit form. I sold a Pacer Wagon at the Lousiville show at least twenty years ago to a guy from Australia. It made his day and mine. He was excited to get it, and I was tired of carrying that turkey around.

MPC never released ANY Don Prudhomme kits. Remember Prudhomme's career was made by the Mattel Hot Wheels sponsorship. At the time, Mattel owned Monogram. I would bet that if this is a reality, it will be either the Garlits kit with Prudhomme "Yellow Feather" decals or the failed wedge. A rebranded Garlits kit would be much more accurate as the Blue McEwen dragster. It was a duplicate of the first rear engined Garlits car built by Garlits. Now.......when you think about the flying wedge dragster being announced and then quietly dropped.......I see a kit I'd call my lHS about every day when I hear it's released. The irony, it appeared to have great potential but never performed to that potential. Of course it would be interesting to see how many decals are missing.

I keep on coming back to this blog (to long to simply call it a post). Stunning work. The belt is so well done. Its the most realistic blower belt I've ever seen on a model.

I'm interested in the Pyro motorcycles. I'll pm my address for anyone who would like to make a donation.

Aluminum WILL NOT solder. You can either glue it or use an "aluminum solder" which is a plastic with metal infused in it. The brass will be significantly stronger. I would suggest asking your LHS if they have Stay-Brite solder. This is a silver bearing solder which is much stronger than an electrical solder. The three biggest factors in successful soldering is clean the brass with steel wool or even your Dremel to make it shiny, a clean soldering iron (I like to wipe my tip on a wet sponge) and close fitting joints. Solder is not designed to bridge large gaps in the brass. Any joint that does that will be fragile.

Joe, I feared a response like yours. I was in Chicago about seven years ago and thought I'd find some interesting shops there. All I found were shops that were not easy to get to. I did manage to get to Tom Thumb Hobbies in Chicago and found the prices higher than my LHS and the selection of domestic kits lacking but a better import selection. I did buy a scriber. After spending an hour and a half to get there, I had to buy something. I've read about Jan's. I think I'd rather go to a museum. I am curious about why my family wants to go to Times Square, but I'll be taking my camera and seeing the sights. I hope we make the Statue of Liberty and a few other sights.

I'm going to be in New York City (Times Square) in a week. I've looked at previous posts concerning NYC hobby shops but those posts are about three years ago. A lot has changed in our hobby in that time. Those of you familiar with NYC, are there any shops you'd recommend. I'd love to have visited Polk's but I'm a couple of years too late. Thanks! Mike