iBorg

I think it comes down to what the items are. If it involved something I could buy at the local hobby shop, the answer would be unlikely. Any savings in trading would be ate up in postage. If what you have to offer is unusual in the United States or expensive enough to warrant the shipping, I think it might be worth your while. The problem isn't your location but rather the shipping charges. I know I used to trade with folks from Canada all the time until shipping rates went up. At one time, I could ship to Canada for within a dollar of shipping in the United States. Now the costs are at least 50% more. It makes trading more difficult to financially justify unless its an item I really want.

I'm not sure my hands could ever work that small. This keeps amazing me.

A few thoughts: The vac-u-form body with the lines for the body separations vs cut apart (I'm guessing they're not cut) is one of the best builds I've seen to recreate such a body. Most dragster builds, the body just looks too clunky. The chassis and engine, the total rear of the car looks real. I hope if you build another car like this, you try to do a WIP. It would be a great teaching device. I hope you'll tell us more about the vac-u-formed body and the process. This is so much better than what I've come to expect. Have you tried it in 1/25? The decals are outstanding. I saw this printer and thought about getting one. What is your solution for white? White paper? I really thought the were printed on an ALPS. A tutorial on using it (Amazon shows it for $80) could help out a lot of us would be printers who keep on hoping for the next generation Alps to be released. I expect that three days after Johan resumes full production.

What printer are you using? They're a great compliment to a great build.

Tremendous build! The scratch built chassis looks so much better than AMT's. Most of the funnys of this era had gone from the front axle with fuel tank behind to the furl tank in front. The body looks tremendous. You captured the gel coat metal flake quite well. There's so many greats here.....I can't list them. Tremendous.

I stumbled upon this build......glad I did! This is magazine feature material. HINT, HINT!

Interesting......AMT Mustang and what chassis or is that the Monogram? If its the Mono, what hood? Finally where is the engine from? This will be a fun one to watch.

And the bar keeps getting raised. Amazing!

I am VERY impressed with both your creativity as well as your execution. I'm going to have to look for one of these kits.

An ambitious undertaking. Your progress so far looks like you're up for the challenge.

Curious question.....is there any savings buying from HLJ after shipping? Mike

I'll really think the engine needs showcased and an altered is a great choice. Please show the making of the 12 spokes. That could be very helpful to other builders.

The Trojan Horse that most remember was the '71 Mustang (the really dark candy blue one). This car came after and ran in the mid 70's after that car.

The Hurst Olds pleased some. Its only real use to me is as a WJ pro stocker (and Slixx is working on the decals.....THANKS!). Its been a good seller. A boat tail Riviera is so iconic. A stock Detroit car that's a beautiful car straight from the factory. Truly this is one of a few kits announced in the past ten years that I'd pre-order. Oh it hasn't been announced. Fall new releases should be announced in a few weeks. PLEASE!

A question and a suggestion. How are you cutting the metal? Are you using something like snips or heavy scissors and hen filing to shape? The seat and riser are quite impressive. Now for the suggestion....Scoring the lines in the door panels and adding a door pull or handle will add a lot to the interior. Overall, a wonderful job.

Kit is not as good as the box art.....I used the body for this project. Unfortunately, I'm not sure if I still have the body I was working on. If I do, I'd love to restart it. The body tin and the chassis is junk although the rear end is useable. The engine block has potential but the blower is rubbish. I'd suggest merging the kit with either a Revell or Monogram FC. Actually the Monogram is closer to accurate. The Revell kit chassis was pretty well dated by 1973.

Which is why racing is so boring today. It used to be you wandered the pits or read the magazines (remember those) to see the different approaches to the same problem. My son sums it up well, now its just cars going in circles. The human element of creativity has been removed for the equality of competition and the cost containment.

I had a Lazer XT......great car. All I have left is the brochure. Miss that car.

Nice build of a car that I was happy to own. While an Escort was my first new car, a Daytona was the first car I bought for myself. LOVED that car. I'd love to drive one again and see if it is as nice as I remember. I noticed the interior. That checkerboard pattern was a signature of the first couple of model years. Are the decals in the kit?

Note its a LEVEL 5......what is a level 5? A large block of plastic and an assortment of Dremel bits?

It looks like the real car. That's the highest compliment I know of for a model car.

Are you sure this isn't in a larger scale like 1:1? That's beyond impressive. Making one look good is pretty good. Making two that match, almost impossible.

Walter's right. The radiators that many of these cars ran was no more than a holding tank. Remember also that these cars often ran not completely within the rules. Radiators were required by NHRA up to 1968,,,,,see rulebook linked here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/87579-link-to-nhra-rule-books-1958-to-1960s/ BUT also, remember this was the era of the AHRA as well as several competitive circuits. If you don't use a radiator and someone tells you its wrong, its simply set up for match racing.

I'm really wanting to make 1/16 Centerlines and the like.

Legal NHRA gassers were required to run a radiator. Many of these radiators were severely cut down. Of course there was quite a few non legal gassers for many of the match races.