iBorg

Have you considered getting a DTM car for parts? That could also provide interior parts and maybe even body parts. Mike

Also on the Evergreen site is a chart showing scale and size of rod to use. For example in 1/16 scale use XX rod to equal X inches.

Cobbled.....You SAID COBBLED. Don't I wish I could cobble something that nice together. Missed seeing you on Saturday.

This looks to me as if someone had a set of Hawaiian decals and modified the CTH release. The wheel cut outs are there. That seems like an easy change to backdate the retro body of the CTH. The hood change is pretty doable if you're skilled although I don't know why the fire hatch wasn't filled in. The motor could be swapped from several possible kits. I plan on using one from a PL kit with a different bug catcher, either early Revell or Jo-han. The pineapples are decals. I'm not sure this is a pre-release of the Hawaiin. If you could see the chassis then we'd know. Mike

I'm anxious to see the injector info. I'll be scratching one for my Hustler. Mike

How about a tutorial on those injectors. Those are sweet! Mike

I don't really understand the wheel and tire. Actually it looks great! MIke

This is one build I want to follow. Know if I could figure out how to do that. Mike

My heart goes out to you and your family. At times like these we get to learn what truly is important. I'll keep you in my thoughts and prayers. I'd appreciate the date of the surgery. Mike

I'll admit three's three LSR's I'dlove to ad to my collection. I think only the Goldenrod is still available. How easy is it to build? Mike

The Spirit of 76 was based on the Garlits RE-1. The AMT kits such as the Black Beauty were based on the Tommy Ivo rear engined kit. I think the Garlits kit is the better of the two chassis kits although the AMT wedge seems a bit closer to 1:1. If I wanted a wedge, which I do, I'd use either the Garlits or maybe the Revell kit and make the body from Evergreen sheet. Mike

I published this elsewhere but I believe it deserves republishing..... I did a Photoshop overlay of the two pictures posted by kitswapper (the actual car when it was actively racing) and ratnasty (Revell body). While the angles are exactly right, if you focus on the wheel wells, it is apparent that the Revell body is pretty accurate for the Hustler in its later racing career. What is also apparent from looking at several pictures is the wheel wells were changed during it career. Please see attached:http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=588431&id=100000173943608&ref=fbx_album Mike

I did a Photoshop overlay of the two pictures posted by kitswapper (the actual car when it was actively racing) and ratnasty (Revell body). While the angles are exactly right, if you focus on the wheel wells, it is apparent that the Revell body is pretty accurate for the Hustler in its later racing career. What is also apparent from looking at several pictures is the wheel wells were changed during it career. Please see attached:http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=588431&id=100000173943608&ref=fbx_album Mike

I'm hoping to get one of these tonight for my birthday. So, to get this correct you changed the sides. Why not just use the PL Charger body and change the hood and sand down the spoiler height? Thanks, Mike

Ken.... I'll send you my address for your unwanted Revell Camaros. Takes a bit of work but its worth it. As for your comment concerning the MPC Cuda. I forgot about the Dunn and Reath. That's one made of golden unotanium. I don't know if it was really a funny car body. Both the MPC second generation Camaro as well as the Don Schumacher Cuda were really stock bodies with molded on hoods. I'm not sure if they qualify as decent attempts. The Monogram Snake Cuda isn't bad but I question the scale. Maybe 1/22? Mike

Before we get excited about a Pinto let me remind you of two things, (10) Jo-han Pinto and (2) Barracuda. For every successful Pinto there was five Cudas. No manufacturer has every done a late body Cuda, accurate or inaccurate. If you want a CUDA, your only choice is resin. If you want a second generation Camaro, kit bash a Funny Hugger/JJ Camaro with the AMT Camaro. Of course another great body to kit would be a decent ram air Mustang. Mike

I've heard from several reliable sources the MPC Harrell Camaro is the most accurate funny car of that era. Of course, it hasn't been reissued and seems to have disappeared. The other Camaro funny car kits including the AMT Funny Hugger and its variants, the Revell Camaro which was reissued as the Jungle Jim car, as well as the MPC USA-1 Camaro and its variants are all lackluster attempts that require major work to make them accurate. Mike

Of course you could also change the roll cage and the interior tin on the Hustler for an interesting flip top gasser. Can't wait to get my hands on one. Might even finish it but why ruin my record? Mike

I do hope a lot of us buy a lot of the kits. I gave my wife the hint that it would make a great birthday present. I'm clearing my bench for it. It looks like a great canvas to add a lot of detail to. Also, I agree the restoration is a bit too nice, although aren't most of them? Mike

Slixx shows the correct color choice as HOUSE OF KOLORS-KANDY APPLE RED #K1101 OVER PEARL WHITE. The next question is which decal sheet is best. I noticed the rear wheels have beadlocks. Guess that's one thing I'll be changing. Also, I wish Revell would have left off the molded in seat belts. I much prefer to use photo-etch. Mike

Hey Greg does being hacked mean this is a world wide popular site? I'd consider it as a compliment. Back handed compliment but still a compliment. Mike

I'm sure toilet paper sales went up or replacement underwear was needed. Mike

Len: Can I sorta hijack your thread? What about the best 427/454 with a blower? Also, what's the best naturally aspirated one? Mike

Have you thought of modifying the body to make it more correct for that car? That body was only correct for the first year Dusters such as the Whipple and McCullough Revellution car. After that, the greenhouse was reduced as was the rear body hangover. Mike

I've viewed several of these discussions as they've become rants. I've had my dealings with Don in the past and weren't happy with them. BUT...... Others have had much more positive results. I've wondered at times if I'm being unfair in avoiding Reliable Resin. Is it really fair to look at something that occurred three years ago and take Don to task for it? Maybe its time to give him another opportunity to earn my business. With that being said, if you have a problem with Don or another caster cite dates and details. I'm a different person today than I was three years ago. Maybe some of us who have taken Don to task before (and I have) should give him another chance and not hold something from a few years ago against him. Don.....may I suggest two things to you that might help your reputation? 1. If the discussion is about another caster, don't enter into the conversation. Even if you believe they as recasting something you've cast, unless you started with an unshaped block and shaped it to what you've cast, you have also recast something someone has made before. It may be an interior or a hood scoop from a long out of production kit. It might be a body that you've corrected. You still modified something that was made before. It is a recast. 2. You might think what you made is the only accurate widget in the world. But others may see flaws in it that you think are improvements. Simply state, "I believe this is the best widget in the world." That may imply its the best and only accurate widget but most people will find it easier to accept your opinion than your declaration of truth. 3. Don't be so forceful in your e-mails. I've saved some from you and they're not really what I think you'd want to receive or see published. While you'd like them to convince others of your viewpoint they only serve to anger the reader. You might not deserve that anger. There is no arguing that Don has been quite successful in filling a niche. He has been able to be one of a handful of casters that have actually been able to make this a long term business. For that he should be praised. I'd like to see his actions not warrant some of the extreme bitter feelings that they have surfaced. FINALLY, I must salute Don. Unless he has posted while I've been writing, this discussion has gone on for two pages and several hours. I know he has watched it. He has yet to comment, attack others or defend himself. I doubt if many of us would have shown the same restraint. Finally, part two..... Tonight, rather than criticizing or praising, let's have some fun and cut up some plastic.