FujimiLover

Can't wait to see your car's body! Next you need to mount the interior on the chassis like I did mine and take a pic. Unless you dont' have the suspension installed yet.

Two window's options is awesome indeed! Very rare for a kit to offer tint, and clear. We're usually left to tint our own! Recommendation. If your going to paint it a dark, color, use the clear window's. If your going to paint it a bright or even a medium color, use the tinted windows. Dark tinted windows on a dark colored car will look too dark and toy-like. While it look's cool on the real car to have a black car with dark windows, it does NOT work in scale. I'd also ditch those wheels and try and find something better.

Thank's guy's. I am aware that the trim is flat black, but it's easier to create the semi-gloss look by painting theme flat black first, and then clear coating. That is how I did it on my grey RX7. The window-trim plastic has more semi-gloss to it I think then pure flat, or pure gloss. I still like to seal in ALL THE PAINT when done. Nobodies answered my question about clear coating over the windows! Can/should I do that to protect the Koenig logo window banner? Despite the spots, it still look's ton's better up close and personal. I think the issue I had with my previous red Koenig, was I probably primed it with gray and used a different Italian red paint and that's probably why it turned out flat and ugly. The Tamiya TS-8 is really nice! I'm going to wait till tomarrow before flipping the body over to paint the underside.

I'm a big, big, big fan of Knight Rider and I know the story of KARR very well! My favorite tv villan so far. I just dont' beleive the theory of salt water effecting the color of the light. And I never saw orange, it was a nice brilliant bright yellow. Remember the night-scene where he and John jumped into the Knight trailer to steal those Alpha Capaciters? That yellow light was awesome! I don't like seeing models of KARR's that have the orange light. It's just not as cool looking. Something more senstor about the yellow.

Thank you guy's. My hardest bit now is to WAIT for the paint to dry completely. Probably Thuresday maybe? Yes, I will wet sand those imperfections down and recoat it. Then the headache will be making sure that when I hand-paint, I do a flawless job. I will mask some areas, but wont' mask everything. Just mask the edges where I'll be hand painting. I like to do the black trim BEFORE clear coating. Any detail work I do after clear coating seems to scratch or fade after time. I like to protect everything with clear coat. I'm just jealous of how well the other guy did his interior! Look's awesome! However, I think the Ivory White will look just as nice inside the red. I just tried to paint flat-red over the flat-blue on my interior, and I think the paint was runny as I made a mistake on the seatbelts. So, it'll have to be repainted all over agin. Should I use flat red, or gloss red for the seatbelts, steering wheel, and gear knob?

Nice interior! Like the way those seatbelts came out! Here's an update. Before......................................... ....................................after No primer this time, just straight on the bare plastic. The paint job itselfe look's fabulous so far. Only issue is, I still got some spots under the paint from hair particles or whatever that couldn't be helped. Should probably let this dry till tomarrow before doing anything with it. And yes..........................................I cheated. This is the spare body. I put aside the blue one for future practice.

Before......................................... ....................................after No primer this time, just straight on the bare plastic. The paint job itselfe look's fabulous so far. Only issue is, I still got some spots under the paint from hair particles or whatever that couldn't be helped. Should probably let this dry till tomarrow before doing anything with it.

Well, the body is washed and dried. I do have Tamiya Color's TS-8 Italian Red as stated. I also just picked up their TS-26 white that I was going to use as a base coat. I will be brave and shoot over the bear plastic as you suggest. It's already prestine white. I just need to learn light-coats for best results! LOL! Will report back with what's happend under the proper thread.

Oh, and by the way. Lesson learned from painting directly on the box.

Okay, we all know that the plastic on my Koenig is white. Again, I use the black primer mainly for the black detail as it's easier then trying to hand paint those details. Those details being the window trim, vents, air-ducts, headlight buckets', et'c. I dont' want to mask off the entire car afterwards and try and paint those details AFTERWARDS! I think that would be thousand times harder than masking off the first coat. I dont' want five or six coats of paint on the car either. I want what I mentioned, primer-black, mask off the details, base coat, Italian Red, decals, clear coat. I will get some gloss white at the LHS today for my base coat. I will look at getting the same type of paint as the Italian Red. I've noticed sometimes mixing paints leads to poor results. I remembered repainting a Kyosho Mini-Z body a while back. It was a 98-99 WRC Ford Focus that had that popular blue/orange white paint Martini paint scheme. I don't remember what I used to primer it, but I primed it, gave it a white base coat, and Guards Red. It turned out super sweet. Unfortunetly, you could still see the original decal lines underneath the paint and not sure why that came out that way as the original gloss-coat was super, super nice. Anyway, after the Guards Red I painted in the black trim and clear-coated it. It wound up looking like a street-tuned racer rather than the original WRC car.

Thank you guy's. So would it hurt or be benaficial to use white primer ontop of the black primer? My reason for the black primer, is so that I can mask off the black areas that need to be black. Even though the blue crapped out on my other body, the masking job was great and my lines were perfect! Especially around the window trim which is the hardest to perfect! My painting process will go like this. Black Primer base-coat=whatever that maybe Tamiya Color TS-8 Italian Red, you suggest polishing and NOT clear coating? I've never polished a model before. I dont' know what to use, or how to use it. My reason for clear-coating, is to seal-in and protect the decals. If I don't clear coat, the decals will eventually flake off/peal off. I checked my paint supply and I don't have any white, but I may have white primer. Just dont' know how good the white primer is. My first step is to let the body dry after I've washed it, then black-primer it.

Also, do any of you clear coat over the window? I'm asking cause this model has a Koenig Specials logo as a window banner and I dont' want it to peal off over time.

I'll have a look and see if any of the white's I have are any good. If not, I'm sure I can pick one up. Any white in particular, or just a gloss white? I dont' think I want to use white primer either as that also tends to flatten the color, plus I dont' want two primers on there anyway. I want something to put on the black, then the base, then the red. The red should look like this when clear coated. The factory may use pink primer, but not sure what Koenig uses when they modify the Ferrari's. I'm sure they have to repaint the entire car when 80% of the new body is kevlar or fiberglass.

Some kit's you can't help no matter how good you are. Nice job!

I don't have pink, and I dont' have white, and I dont' have any more money to buy more paints. All I have is the silver I used on the engine, so I'm going to go with that. Should still be better than right on the primer itselfe. I've never seen pink primer before!

I'll be useing the flat-black primer as the "beginner". I dont' have any white at the moment, only the silver that I used on the engine. I don't think putting the Italian Red on the primer will work, especially the black one. It works in my head, but I doubt it will in reality. I'm assuming the silver will have same result as the white?

What would you use to make a home-made seat belt? I'm not to concerned about the photo-etched detailing, just the belt itselfe. Any thick sewing thread? My guess is you would need something about 1mm wide?

Good question. It's just a normal bone stock Honda-type Air-bag equipped steering wheel. I assume plastic or vynal covering, not sure. All I know is it's faded and it's the only ugly part on the car!

Hello. What's the best base coat to use before painting Italian red? I noticed that painting Italian red straight on primer tends to give it a flat look. I have a nice bright silver that I used for my Koenig's engine, should I use that as a base?

That's a Mustang owner. I seriously doubt any Ferrari owner would do sucha thing! LOL! A mustang to me is an every day car no matter how new it is.

The blue paint is Laqure, and it took over three hours. All I could see is small flakes in the liquid, but nothing really coming clean off the body.

I'd like to get my steering wheel back to black. It's the only thing that's faded on the car. I dont' know if it's from the sun, which doesn't make sence since the dash board is perfect, or if it's just rubbed off from constant handling. It's an air-bag steering wheel, so I dont' want to remove it. Any suggestions?

Cool idea, please continue posting here! I want to build myselfe a game room in our basement. My Dad and I have a nice large workshop/basement in our house, but he owns 98% of it. But some day it'll be all mine. I'd like to put in a pool table, a large 1/32 scale slot car track, and a semi-professional air-brushing paint booth. Oh yea, and dont' forget a large flat-screen for movies and web-surfing!

Has anybody purchased/built the new Knight Rider KITT and KARR kit's from Aoshima? You know, the new 1/24 scale kit's with the light scanner? What's their quality like? How well detailed are they? I've noticed that KARR has two optional light scanners, I've seen one orange, and I've seen one yellow. He properly need's the yellow one. I'd like to build one of each as I have a small collection of Knight Rider stuff.

Thank's guys! I'll have a look for the Testors kit some day. I always had the hot's for Mia Sara. I bet the car they crashed in the end was a kit car for sure! It's interesting how in movies, and in tv shows such as Miami Vice, that you can see the real deal exotic car in some shots, and in other shots it's an obvious fake. There are questionable scenes in several movies where you wouldn't do that to a real car. I can pick two movies for example. Cannonball Run II, the begining chase scene between the Lamborghini Countach and the police. You wouldn't treat a Lamborghini like that diving off a dirt hill and spinning off onto the road. In Condorman, you wouldn't drive a Porsche 935 down grassy hills leaping over the roads and down another grassy hill. Anyway, is this an easy model to find, or is it a rare one? I like movie cars!