FujimiLover

Geeez, some of you guy's are stacked-up like hobby stores! I only have six kit's, plus two on the way, and that's a record for me! As soon as I have my own house, thing's will change............................................................... "Have you ever noticed that all instruments that record intelligent life are pointed away from earth!" Maybe it just shows how smart we're not?

Hello there. I'm tempted by these nice-looking photo-etched 1/24 scale racing Sparco seat-belts. These would look super cool in my Koenig models. Here's a picture of theme in red, but they also come in blue! My question is, has anybody experience with these? And would I be able to sand down the ugly molded'in seatbelts that are currently on my Koenig-Competition models? Or, should I get an aftermarket set of seats as well? Are these worth the trouble? For sure they'd bring extra realism to the models.

Thank you but I dont' want one with a race-prepped interior. All the cars I build are race-based or street-based street cars. I dont' like the gutted out interior look with fire-extinguishers and what not.

HO scale cars are usually those really tiny plastic ones and the best ones I've seen are from Herpa. Herpa has made some very high-quality models in this scale, several are very rare including their special custom series with wild paint jobs and what not. I'm not sure what the "normal" toy-like slot-car cars would be, but I'm guessing same as Hot Wheels, or 1/64 range. Thank you for your answers guy's, very helpful. Weather or not the scale is acurately, close, the Airwolf and KITT do look great together as they are close enough to scale number wise. Unless you had the real thing to compare to, you probably would look and say, yea, they look right together! I usually try and judge by imagining the driver's size fitting in the pilot's seat, and vise-versa.

Hello. A while back Fujimi produced a very nice kit of this car, The Mercedes Benz 190E Evolution 2 I have searched ebay for it and all I can find is Tamiay's racing version. I do not want that kit. I'm looking for Fujimi's kit of the street-version. The kit was molded in black, and it was a very nice kit to build. I had one ages ago. Would like to find another one soon. Any suggestions? Anybody know where I might find it?

LOL! Yea, but a 1/18 scale figure would look like a giant next to a 1/24 scale person!

Yes your right, and thank you. Every time I've built this "Elenore", I learn something new every time. Example, I've learned that spray-painting the engine parts this way, looks' ton's better than hand-painting which I've done previously, The hand-painting really look's horrible on large objects like this. Useing CA-glue and insta-cure on these pipes helps alot as they are a pain in the azz to get'em perfectly straight as the normal glue sag's. Depending on where the part is, determines how much attention I pay to it. While it maybe easier to spray-paint the parts while they are on the tree, it is harder to detail'em as you suggest. I have not yet figured out how to take all the parts off the tree, mount theme on something that will allow me to spray-paint, and then figure out what peice goes where without having the number's next to theme. When I do the convertible version, I will build as much of the engine as I can, then paint it as one part. I will work on trimming these pipes for the next one. However! At the same time, these won't be seen at all when the car is being displayed. Only time you'd see it is by flipping it over and/if you have a mirrored floor. Right now, I'm very satisfied with the chassis and interior. I just need to get the body to look as good, if not better since it's the main part.

Thank you, and that's pretty much what I figured. But what about the difference between 1/48 scale airplanes, and 1/43 scale cars? I've never seen airplanes in 1/43 scale. I'm asking cause I have both Aoshima die-cast models, one of Airwolf in 1/48, and one of each KITT and KARR in 1/43. Both superbly detailed, and it look's awesome having KITT parked next to Airwolf. But would anyone notice the difference? I'll post a pic of KITT next to Airwolf and see if you could tell. Also, are there any really good 1/43 scale people out there? Oh, and by the way, I'm not trying to speak mathematics here, I freaking hate math! LOL! I'm just talking about display purposes if thing's would look right.

I've got several diorama ideas I'd like to build. One would be an exotic car dealership housing my Koenig's. The other one would be of the famous Lamborghini Countach wall-art. http://www.latimes.com/news/local/la-0512l...34.photogallery

I have a question regarding differently scaled model figures for display. Since we humans come in all sizes and shapes, would you really notice the difference between 1/24 and 1/25 scale figures? How many scales are their of figures? Obviously, you wouldn't want 1/18 scale, or a much noticably larger scale, but I'm thinking more in line with a scale that's off by so little, like 1/24 and 1/25. While at Complete Games and Hobbies the other day, they had a really nice full-figured model in 1/18 scale, attractive really, but was wondering if they had her in 1/24 scale. She looked like she was wearing a bikini and some kind of gown or something that flowed down to her feet. The same question goes for wheels. Would you notice 1/25th scale wheels on 1/24 scale models? Obviously, putting 1/24 on 1/25 would make'em look like inch-ups? I guess what I'm asking here, is how important is it to match up scales. Die-cast model airplanes have always seemed to be in 1/48 scale, where cars are 1/43 scale. Is there a difference within that "5" margin?

Thank's guy's. Some spots are already looking better as it dries out, but some spots will need to be sanded. I've already popped it off the cardboard and it's resting on the paint can. The weather turned to poop this weekend so wont' be painting anytime soon anyway. So, will have to hold on till it dries completely enough for me to start sanding it. It also look's like some parts did not get enough paint. The roof look's nice and glossy, but the hood look's flat. What grit sand-paper do you recommend for sanding down this paint? The only thing about this color though, it look's better in the shade. In the sun-light, it's too flaky.

I'm so artistic and visual, that in my head it's already perfect. My problem is, getting it from my head, down the arms to the hands, to the fingers, and to the parts that I'm working on. I find it very difficult to apply several light coats of paint as I tend to get excited to see it finished, then I screw up. Case in point my blue Koenig Competition. I spent all that effort on the prep work, primer, and masking, and I rushed the paint and goofed up. So for me, the artistic side takes over cause it already sees the work done when in reality, I haven't even started! LOL!

Same goes for Bondo. I recently purchased Automotive Bondo from PepBoyz and wish I didn't. They had two can's left, both dented. When I got home with one, the gray bondo was all gunky and bad, and the red hardner was all watery. Needless to say I won't be useing that on my Veil!

Thank's guy's. I'm going to wait for the paint to dry a few more day's before messing with it. If I try and fix it now, I'll snafu it further. The only really bad spots are at the bottom where the paint run's down, or where it thickened up. Plus the rear wing and one of the rear intake covers got it badly. Will this Laquer sand down nicely? What grit sand paper do you recommend? Do I need to go down to the black, or just down smooth and add another light coat? The can said it was a one-coat paint, so perhaps that's why I did it too thick. I always have the tendancy to paint too thick even though I know the golden rule of several light coats. My Dad think's the paint build-up is because of where the body meet's the cardboard that it was standing on. He thinks it built up right at those edges. So, yea I'll look into a model-stand after sanding this one down. I'm tempted to get another kit at LHS, but not sure I want to spend 40 buck's just for the body. ALthough I have thought it would be cool to just have the chassis displayed by itselfe next to a complete kit with body. I'm not even sure if I like this blue or not, but we'll see once I fix the spot's. I'm just mad at myselfe that I've got the chassis and interior perfect, I had a perfect primer, and I was very carefull with the masking tape, and then I FOUL-UP on painting! UGGGGGGGGG! I think with time and patients it can be saved. I was wondering if there's anyway to strip the paint off without harming the plastic underneath. But the only strippers I know of dont' like plastic, or should I say, they LOVE plastic? After all, this is my first use of this type of paint!

Decided to go for it. I think I painted too thick in some areas as the paint spot's higher and look's awefull. Will have to wait for it to dry and sand it down. I like the color, but not happy with the results, my fault mostly. It does look better in person, but I think too flaky. I'm pretty ticked off at the results since my masking was nicely done. I should have taken it easy with this new paint and done lighter coats. Why do I always tend to paint thick?

Got the masking done. Look's great on the outside, I just hope the tape seals itselfe nicely and I dont' get any run-in's. When this is painted, basically the color's will flip. What was blue will be black, what was black will be blue.

When the primer dries, I'll measure the width of the side windows in question. I thought of doubleing up, overlaying the tape, but those results dont' always work well. For the side window, I need one wide peice that I can trim. I first use my finger nail to make the crease line, then use the hobby knife. The lines on the Koenig are nice enough that this should be easy to do. I'm betting I'll need both widths of tape.

Thank you. I will let the primer dry a few day's before applying the masking tape. Weather does not permit painting right now anyway. I'm useing the blue 3M masking tape as it's what I have right now and so far it work's great! I will see if I can get a hold of the Tamiya tape you suggested. Can I get masking tape in various widths? I've had a look at the side windows, and it look's like I can mask off the trim nicely. I just need a peice of masking tape wide enough. I dont' think the blue tape I have right now will work here. Some window-trim I can do successfully, and other's are more difficult. It also depends on the color of the car. If it's dark enough, you'd hardly notice the waves, but yes there there. As I'm aiming for perfection here, I will mask off everything that's too be black. Exception maybe the small rectangular vent that's infront of the windshield. I'm tempted to do the convertible version next, same methods, different methods learned from this one. I'm thinking the convertible will be identical in colors?

Here's my workbench. It's about 5 feet long 2 feet deep, adjustable shelves. Helicopter parts hidden behind the towel. Tools in the upper right storage bin's. Paint's in the upper left storage bin, the one that's out right now. My computer station which is also my tv, Itunes, a week's worth of music. The shelves to the right of my workstation are Dad's RC airplane stuff. He's got ton's of electric motors and Lipo batteries, speed controllers, et'c. He's basically his own hobby store he's got so much shtuff! It's not a bad place to work, but I'd like to have more room and be elsewhere where I have better access to a custom paint booth. My current stack of 5 model kit's. Two more on the way! The big black recycable bin on the far left contains my Mini-Z RC track of which I haven't used in several months on account I sold all my RC car's. Car's were starting too eat up to much of my money and I simply lost interest in theme...............for now.

I have that Skyline in Kyosho's AutoScale collection. These bodies are superbly detailed and are 1/28 in scale. They are designed for the Kyosho Mini-Z RC cars which are alot of fun to collect, hop-up, and race. Some of us like to just simply collect the bodies. They cost around 50 buck's, sometimes over 100 for the ultra rare ones. I think this Skyline is still available on ebay and comes in blue as well. Just search for Mini-Z under toy's and hobbies, and you want to look for the seller Hobby Japan. They have the best collection of these AutoScale bodies and they ship very fast.

Wheels mounted, front's work. Primed the other side of the body and parts. I've been told by our friend Karl that the Laqure paint requires nice warm weather, like in the 70's. Unfortunetly, the weather is turning lousy for the weekend and it look's like I won't be able to do any painting for a while.

This is an old method, but I will try it when I cut off the bumpers on my Veilside Nissan 300. Wish I done that to my MR2, would've gotten a cleaner line. Could you use a fishing line as well, or is the floss sharper and smoother?

Pure white cat's sure are pretty aren't they? Great to see this "odd" thread in this model car forum growing!

I haven't done so yet, but how about useing a nice round turn-table spice-rack for organizing your bottles of paints? I'd like to do that for my Tamiya paints. Will have to see if the paint bottles will fit in the spice-rack. It would be much nicer than those crappy little plastic ones that Testors put's out with their itty bitty bottles.

I didn't catch on to what scale this model is, but you might want to look for Fujimi's wire-wheels. They had several both in chrome and gold, wide and narrow. I still see a few in shops. Not my style, but may suit your project. Again, not my style, but must admit very nice looking wheels. I think Fujimi made the best wire-wheels to date. Here are photo's of Fujimi's wire wheels. These would look hot if you do something like a black with flame's on this Hearse?