FujimiLover

I'm still learning how to detail my car properly. We also live on dirt roads and the car get's very dusty quickly and worse when we get snow. We just had a major snow storm this past weekend and the roads yesterday/this morning were a foot of thick shtuff. I usually take my car through a touchless car-wash and hand-dry it right then and there. Sometimes I just let the driving dry it. I keep my dashboard as dust-free with a micro-fiber towel and would occasionally use some dust-remover stuff. Last stuff I used was Black Magic anti-static dust guard. HA! What a laugh, it looked good for a while, but the dust always comes back, so not sure what they meant by dust guard. One thing you dont' want to use is any petrolium based products. I've heard that petrolium based products, particularly the older Armor-All, can eat plastic. I dont' know about the newest stuff, but I'd stay away from the older stuff. I've heard one professional shop in California uses pure-drinking water for whipping down the dashboard, and then uses Q-tips to get the vent's and every nook and cranny detailed. While some Armor-All products look great when plastic is all nice and shiney, it leaves a disgusting greesy residue that I'm sure your clients wouldn't want. Plus, it can reflect and be problematic. So, try and stay away from the "Shiny" stuff. As I said, I'm still learning how to detail my car properly. I'm not as anal as my brother is about his Subaru WRX STI, but I do like my car as perfect as it can be, but awfully difficult when you live in a climate such as Colorado, and in the forest with dirt-roads!

Hello there. Is there a model kit of Ferris Bueller's Day Off Ferrari? I think it's a 250 GTO convertible if I'm not mistaking, probably a fake one at that. I remembered the liscnce plate read NERVOUS, maybe fewer letters. What EXACTLY was the Ferrari in the movie and what's the best model kit of it? I've always loved that movie and hope Itunes get's its in their library soon and I'd love to have a model of it.

I'm unhappy with the paint-stripping results. I dont' think I want to continue with this body. I may just let it dry over night and see if I can get another good primer on it. If the primer is nice and smooth, I'll try again. When I picked up the "Spare body kit", I also picked up Testors TS-8 Italian Red which I'll use to paint the body this time around. I think it will look good ontop of the black primer. If the primer job turns out awefull, I'll ditch this body and use the spare kit. However, I'd be happier to save this one.

The alchohol didn't work, it just roughened up the paint. I was expecting a clean strip with little effort.

Just saw F&F this weekend with Dad. My Dad is so lame when it comes to movies, tv shows, and actors. He thought Vin Diesel was Bruce Willis! LOL! He dont' know Star-Wars from Star-Trek or one character from another. All he knows is Robin Williams and Eddie Murphey. Everybody else he knows "jack"! He just doesn't care to learn either as it doesn't interest him, but it is emberassing to me when he get's it all confused. Anyway, movie was okay, it definetly takes place between 2F2F and Tokyo Drift, but you have to see the first one to understand the relationship between Brian and Dom. It helps to see all three before seeing this one. I wouldn't get the DVD to watch it, but only to complete the collection as I've got all the previous ones. I'd give it a C for effort. Oh, and YES! That was a Ford RS2000 they showed at the begining! Very quick, but it was there!

.....................................model. I missed last weeks, but I say this ones a model.

The alchohol is taking longer than 20 minutes.........................................

Yes, I am soaking the body in some stuff right now. I did get an extra kit as back-up in case the stripping turned out horrible.

I got myselfe a back-up kit just in case the paint-stripping turns out horrible. Only stuff I could find was the 91% alchohol stuff and I'm soaking it in there right now. It look's like it's working, but I dont' think it's 20 minutes like what you said. We'll see though.

Don't worry, I dont' like yellow and I've never had luck with it either. I got myselfe a back-up kit just in case the paint-stripping turns out horrible. Only stuff I could find was the 91% alchohol stuff and I'm soaking it in there right now. It look's like it's working, but I dont' think it's 20 minutes like that guy said in the other thread. We'll see though.

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, I think I'd like a nude model proped on the hood of my Koenig! :D

This is the can of Easy Off that I currently have. I don't know how much I have left in the can, nor do I know if I have anything to put the body in for soaking. Do I want to mix it with some water? Is their a ratio between this and water?

I have these two pictures of the Koenig Compeition. A yellow one, which shows you maybe right, and a red one that shows the black grill in front of the windshield. As for the taillight covers, they are also color-coded. As I plan on stripping this paint, I can redo it properly. Only mistake I made was the rear vent section that's part of the interior bucket. Can't tell from any photos what color that bit's supposed to be. Anyway, disapointment here. It's a shame that the paint was so bad when the masking was so good.

I started the strip-thread cause I think I'll have better results if I can get it back to bare plastic. Whatever my results maybe, I'll post here for others to learn.

WOW! Thank's for the response guy's. What about Simple Green, Formula 409? I think I have Easy-Off which helped remove anodizing off an aluminum RC car part, but never tried it on plastic. I'm not exactly sure what kind of paint the flat-black primer "Citadel Color" is, but the blue was Laqure. I'd like to strip both and get back to the white plastic. It does not have to be 100% clean and pure white, although would be nice. But does need to be good enough I can re-prime and start fresh.

Hello. Many of you have been following my Koenig Specials Competition build and know how unhappy I am with the paint's finish. I've got most of the bad spots sanded down, but it needs lot's more work. I'd much rather strip off the paint and start from bare white plastic. What's the best stuff to use that will strip the paint off clean, but wont' harm the plastic at all? I'm very close to purchasing another kit just for a fresh body.

Pug 206WRC!

Please tell me what I need to get that will strip the paint clean, but wont' harm the plastic. I'd much rather get it back to white than to have to sand the heck out of it. I'm still seeing some bump's in the paint.

Speed Vision was awesome. Speed Channel sucks!

The WRC has been my favorite for the longest and it really upset me when Speed Vision became Speed Channel and stopped broadcasting the WRC races. I loved watching these awesome "street" cars racing on "public" roads drifting around sharp hair-pin turns in Monte Carlo and racing through the forest in snow, on roads barely wide enough for the cars them selves as their screaming down at over 100 MPH! I dare ANY Nascar driver to do that! Going in circles is boring, but steering a bullet through holes no bigger than a keyhole, that's TALLENT! My favorite is when their racing on Tarmac where the cars are lower, and they have the bigger wheels, that's yummy! Amazing however, that their fastest times is on snow! As soon as Speed Vision became Speed Channel, it went downhill and I've never watched that channel since then except for the occasional drifting and British Touring car, DTM races.

Well, I just wet-sanded the spots down and I think it'll be all right. When it's wet, it's hard to tell if the smoothness your feeling with your fingers is the plastic, or the water! LOL! So, I'll have to let it dry for a while to see how smooth I've actually gotten it. Should be okay. It look's like I got the worst spots almost back to white again, so I'm sure with another light coat it'll be fine. It also doesn't look like my wet-sanding job effected my masking job either. So, that should be good for another coat. Here are some updated photos. The rear was pretty good, but I still need to paint the bottom side. Will do that when the top side is perfected and dried enough to flip it over. Don't get me wrong, under the right light, the car does look good, it's just too flaky when under direct sun-light. At least I'm learning thing's so that when it's time to do the Competition Spyder, IT shoud be even BETTER!

Thank's. I'm not going to ditch this kit entirely. What I would do, is keep the beautiful chassis and interior that I already finished, and just start over with the new body. Then somebody else could finish this body, and have a brand new chassis/interior kit to start fresh from. I've been pondering about strippers, but not sure what to use that wont' harm the plastic. Alot of strippers I know of are only good for die-cast models. Also, would the striper go through the harder Laqure without harming the plastic? It would be nice to get back to the primer, but that wont' happen. Whatever will strip the Laqure will strip the primer as well. I just don't want to risk melting the plastic. If there is a way to get it back to pure white plastic with very little paint left, I'd be more than happy to do that. I've got plenty of that black-primer left and I'd love to get back to step 2. Primer, mask, and repaint. What do you recommend I should buy to strip the Laqure paint that won't harm the plastic underneath?

Nice model! My only comment is the liscence plates. I love the Colorado plates as I live in Colorado and need a couple for my models as well. However, I noticed that you have the expiration tags on the front. The front liscence plates do NOT have the expiration tags, ONLY the rear plates have'em. That is the only minor detail I see wrong with it, other than that it look's 100% perfect to me! Nice job!

I am stuck with a half/half situation. On one half, I'd like to continue to try and fix this paint job, it's not all that bad, just the lower parts where the paint built up. At the same time, I dont' like the way the color look's under bright light, it's too flaky like a gosh darn LowRider. No offense to you LowRider fan's out there, but that's not the right look for this car. My other half wants to get another kit just so I'll have a fresh body to start over with. However, then I'll have an unfinished body, and a complete chassis/interior that wont' be used. I am wondering if anybody would like to continue with this current body and have a free complete chassis/interior? I'll probably get the new kit this week and work on the body. I'd use the same methods, but paint a different color. This car really should be a gorgeous red. All I'd do to the interior, is just paint red over the blue. I'm sure the Ivory will look just as nice in the red as it would any other color. This is the type of finish I'd love to achieve on this model. The picture here is a 1/18 scale model kit, but it's exactly the same car. It's got a beautifull red finish to it, and I'm sure I can achieve this much easier than continueing with the blue. So what do you guy's think? I know most of you will say continue with the blue. Would anybody like to keep this blue one and have a brand new chassis/interior to work on? I'd be happy to trade it with another Fujimi, or Aoshima tuner kit. Perhaps a VIP Honda Odyssey van? Let me know what you think. I'll probably head down to Complete Games and Hobbies tomarrow or Tuesday depending on weather.

Thank you. I'm not sure what the future holds for my current Koenig Ferrari Competition model at the moment. I'm pondering getting another kit for the body and seats. If I go that route, I'll look into getting these photo-etched seatbelts as they do look really nice.