dwc43

They are Ford or OSHA Blue. Steel headers.

Actually, that is a stock 1950's Mopar motor mount. Stock piece, just not for a Gen II Hemi. And if you look really close, Petty used 60's truck interior mirrors on his race cars. Some have the bracket drilled with holes to save and once or two.

That looks awesome.

Sounds like you got it figured out. Can't wait to see the finished product.

I see your problem there. I'd almost want to try lowering the engine a bit. But, your oil pan might be too close to the frame already. Hard to say from that pic angle with the tape on it too. By the way, those filters Petty used are actually factory push on filters used on stock valve covers. They knew how to save money. All those are for is to vent fumes from the engine since it does not have a pcv system like street cars use. We use two of those K and N type filters on the left side of our valve covers on our race cars. The oil is added to the engine from the valve cover tube. That engine is not correct anyways. By this time, they were using dry sump oil pans. I'll attach a pic and you can just see the oil tank in the LF fender well by the firewall and two hoses running from the tank over the frame just behind the shocks to the oil pump on the left front of the engine.

Well, I had some ideas. It's supposed to be rubber hoses on the valve cover area, can you angle the tube forward to drop it, or cut down the "rubber" area and lower the whole assembly? Looking at your pics, it may already be on the distributor. Might have to file a flat spot on the bottom of it to clear the distributor. I doubt it would be noticeable after completion.

More than welcome. Love these cars. I need to pick up some for my collection. I love the Charger the most. That Petty Blue and STP red really go together.

Think the ride height is about perfect. They sit high in the rear at rest, and they drop down closer to level as downforce compresses the rear springs.

Use MAD wired distributors for your engine. Most realistic looking. Distributors - Morgan Automotive Detail (madmodeling.com) You can get aluminum tubing to make exhaust tips and drive shafts from. You can use a mini tubing cutter or a #11 blade if you have plenty og them to waste. You can also polish those tubes after you make them too.

Well, you may be right there. A book came out in 66 and the anime ran from 67 to 68 with 52 episodes. I can't find a date on the Manga comic books though and it's said to have come out in the early '60's. Of course, there are the 80's and 90's remakes, comic books, tv shows and movie too.

I have not started mine yet, but I have a couple 1/100th scale and I think I have a 1/144 and 1/72 as well. They are cheap and easy to find. Starting at 10 to 12 bucks on Amazon. I'd get a cheap one, since most of the detail on the more expensive ones are in the cargo bay and not the outside of the orbiter.

By the way, it's looking good.

Most short track cars run the RF out, the RR tucked in, the LR out and the LF tucked in. It's all about weight transfer for handling. And most classes I raced in, only allowed one inch difference in back spacing between wheels, so you do suspension and axle changes to set the wheels where they need to be. I know that's a dirt car in my pic, but you can see the offset on the wheels and suspension. Works the same on dirt as asphalt.

Only way to learn is to get to cutting. Space shuttles are everywhere. Maybe do a trial run and mate some other cheap body to the shuttle as a practice run. That way you are not sacrificing an expensive hard to find ZZ Top Ford. Then when you get it right, or at least learn what's involved you can go back and do the Afterburner version. Only way and usually the best way to learn is just jump in and do it. Hope that encourages you to try it.

Love that car. I have two of those I plan to build at some point. One I will build as the original ZZ Ford and the other I want to mate with a Space Shuttle to do the Afterburner cover car. Can't wait to see your build.

If you have a hobby knife, you can turn it around backwards and use it to follow the truck lid lines or door lines when you want to cut something out. Takes a while, but it will be cleaner.

Ask and you shall receive. lol

Not putting down the model or the car (nice work), but does anyone else see a rip off of the Mach 5 with a bad customizing job? LOL!!!

White wheels.

Ebay should have everything you need. I'd just use the stock chassis unless you want a true tube chassis for a real pro stock car. That's my 69 Street strip car. I don't think the yellow slapper bars are on it in that pic yet. I got those from e bay along with wheels and tires already printed white. Use MAD Distributors - Morgan Automotive Detail (madmodeling.com) for your wired distributors. They have other parts too. Most realistic dist. around. Model Car Garage for nitrous tanks and shifters and such. Too many resin manf. out there too. Too many decal makers too.

Looks good, but that dist. sits in there at an angle. That's why the valve cover had the slanted cut to it on the side there. Not complaining, just informing. lol

It's the old General Lee kit. Has a steel axle through pin holes on the rear. The axle sits between the stands for the axle holes. The front has two stands and two plastic pins that goes through the wheel backs and glues into the holes in the stand. Very cheap made kit. I used it to build the bad guy's car from the 1986 tv movie the "Gladiator" Had Robert Culp in it, Rick Dees the girl from the Robo Cop movies too.

More than welcome. If you go back to the beginning, they had to be stock. The term wedge came along because people would drive wood wedges between the leaf spring packs in the rear, which was illegal in the beginning. I'm sure you know they were mostly old moonshine cars in the beginning too. Then the truck parts came along when they got fast enough to start breaking stuff. They used truck tires as well. They had more ply's and lasted a little longer than car tires before they started blowing out. They just could not take the heat. Roll cages were flimsy at first and improved over the years too. I guess best thing to do is search for pics of your favorites and go from there. My car. Nothing like sliding sideways at a buck 20 with the LF a foot or so off the ground with almost 900 hp on tap.

They are older outdated NASCAR chassis with smaller lower hp engines. At one time they used 2 bbls and at one time they even used V6's in them. It just depends on the year. 60's is going to be really close to stock. They would upgrade things to make it more heavy duty. Instead of using stock car tie rod ends, they would use stock 1 ton truck tie rod ends. Truck spindles and axles and things like that. If you looked at them, you would not know the difference other than the size of them.