dwc43

I use engine paints all the time. Duplicolor. They have several shades of black that I like to use. A low gloss one that has a nice stain look to it. It dries fast so it keeps the dirt and dust out of it. Not a great pic, but this car from the movie Gladiator that I built is all Duplicolor black engine paint. Just put a good coat of primer under it and it will be fine.

Nice so far. I have one of these in the stash to build, so I want to see how it unfolds too. I'm going to be building a movie car out of mine even though it only had a few brief scenes in the opening parts of the movie before it was destroyed.

Well, can't wait to see it.

I just wanted to show you these things. That's three styles of steering quickeners. These things are about the size of your fist and just have a pair of gears inside of them. They go inline from the teering shaft to the steering box. I just figured you might could use the pics if you are going for accuracy. It sounds and looks like an interesting build so far.

The round ones are factory for that car, but they have a black bezel that goes around the lights to fill in all of that open area around that light.

The bad thing about it, is that the injection scoop won't stick through the hood either. So, that's why I went carbed under the scoop. I think that's B Gas class.

Sorry for the bad pics, but it's all I have of this car. Yes, there is a firewall issue. I trimmed the hood tabs down a bit because they hit inside when you get everything mounted correctly. I forgot exactly what I did to it, but I had to do some trimming where the firewall meets and where the inner fenders meet at the frame. And if I recall correctly, I think it had more of an issue on the right side than on the left. But it does take a little work to make these kits look nice, but it can be done.

They make great dirt track cars with built 2300's.

Yep, did not think about the tire decals when I said that. lol

The Coyote X uses BFG T/A's with white letters. Plenty of those out there.

Linkage is the same on all Holley 4bbl and most 2bbl carbs, unless someone messed with it. Linkage on the driver's side and vacuum pods on the passenger sides.

Not bad. But your driver's side valve cover is upside down and both carbs are backwards. The linkage is on the opposite side of the carb not on the vacuum secondary pods side. Good start though.

Great looking cars.

For future reference the dist. mounts behind the water pump area at an angle not on the intake and the coil goes on the intake not the head.

Looking good. Can't wait to see the finished product. And welcome on the info. I've been around race cars since I was a kid. I like to help out cause almost everyone want their creation to be as accurate and real looking as possible. I hate to offer sometimes because I don't want to make someone mad or make them think I hate it or something like that. And your right, it's hard to find good pics of certain subjects for reference.

Just so you know, for future builds, fuel lines and vents and roll over valves are mounted on top of the fuel cell. Some pickups have floaters which look like wings on the fuel pick up and it floats on the fuel to keep the pickup covered. Some cells have dams on the right side that holds fuel so it won't uncover the pickup and most pickups are in the RR of the cell too. On that pic I sent you, the left side has a washable steel screen filter in it on that leads to an electric fuel pump which is illegal on circle track cars. It won't shut off when the engine dies, so it can start a fire. On the right side you see a rollover valve with a vent hose. Most of those should go straight up and have an S or a line looped to prevent fuel and dirt from getting to each other. The filler is the red cap in the middle. Most of those can be changed out to allow for a filler tube, think nascar type cells. Hope that helps. Great build too.

You can cut a coke can with scissors. Would that be too thick, still?

Looking good. Like the reflective numbers. Most places wont let you run those now. At least where I live. Blinds the drivers and the people in the stands and lots of times it's hard for the score keepers to read the numbers with the lights reflecting off of them. I still think they look good though, even on the real thing.

Most likely cracked heads or blown head gaskets caused those tanks to explode, but either way, I agree with you. We ran overflows by the right side windshield posts so we could see them. Of course, we run auto meter gauges and dummy lights to get your attention. And I can vouch for your driver suit theory too. It was not water but a blown engine jsut past the flag stand that got me one night. It was hot engine oil, not oil that got me. When it hits that suit, it sticks, and it burns till you can get it off or it cools down. I can't see how water would be any different.

Welcome anytime. And thanks, on the late model. It's a handful for sure. You should get to the track more often. Us local racers appreciate more than the NASCAR junkies do. lol

Yes, that's how it works. Mostly circle track stuff or lower budget drag cars. Most drag cars that still use radiators use electric water pumps now. Less drag on the engine. By the way, same thing for blower cars. Bigger pulley on the blower slows it down compared to rpm and you get less boost and vice versa. I understand getting pics are hard to do as well. No one wants to show off their tricks and secrets. You can see in the pic below the huge water pump pulley compared to the smaller crank. You can also see the diff in size between the crank, water pump and oil pump pulley. It depends on what rpm you run the engine at as to what ratio you want from the pulley. When it comes to water moving it through the engine too fast will overheat it just like moving it too slow will do the same thing. My late model modified dirt track car makes roughly 800 to 900 horsepower and as you can see it makes enough torque coming out of the corner to pull the LF a good 6 to 8 inches off the ground. And you're welcome. If you need any help with race cars, hit me up and I'll try to help out. And by the way, it looking great so far. And I tossed in another pic for a cooling mod you will see on circle track cars too.

Just so you know the next time, the big pulley goes on the water pump and the small one goes on the crank. On the real thing that set up will make it overheat with the small on top and big on the bottom. That creates a ratio that spins the water pump too fast. We slow the water pumps down with big pulley on top and small on bottom. It keeps the water pump in the 3500 rpm range when the engine is singing at 7500 or better.

Looking good. Love all the details.

Looking fantastic.