dwc43

Thanks. They came from some ASA Camaro kit my brother robbed from. He was going to toss some stuff and I took em. Ron Coon has them as w15 and w16. They are two-part wheels just like the ones I have in that pic. Scroll down to the bottom and find combo 1 and combo 2, that's what you want to get to save you the money. Ron Coon Resins | Wheels & Tires - For Circle Track Builds The finned aluminum Buick brake drums came from the Parts Box. I made an upside-down V bar for a roll bar. I made the shift that's in it. Gauges on the dash were from my stash along with the battery and gas tank in the back of it. I wired everything in it from the coil and dist. to the starter and battery.

The Lindberg kit has a 312 Thunderbird engine in it that might fit right in. I used it in my 40 Ford to build a circle track modified instead of going with a flat head. Just an idea.

It's a collectable thing. I used to date this woman that was a Coke collector. I don't recall ever seeing her drink one though. They make telephones, plates, dolls, those Christmas bears and tree ornaments and all sorts of that stuff. I doubt it will ever be worth more than what you pay for it, but people collect it.

More than welcome. I used to have a 70 Road Runner that I drag raced. You sure can tell where the Road Runner left off and where the Superbird took over.

That's the underside of the hood and you can clearly see where it was pieced together and the extra structure added. Hard to find a pic that shows just how big that seam is on the outside of the hood.

Well, you need to rescribe that line across the hood as that was stock. The Charger was used for the Daytona, and everything was made just for that car. The Daytona nose and wing will not fit on a Superbird and they are not the same design. The Superbird was created by taking a 70 Road Runner from the firewall back. It used Dodge Cornet front fenders and had it's on unique nose made for that car. The 70 ROad Runner hood was used, but it was too short and a panel was welded onto the hood. That's your scribe line you filled in that you need to rescribe now to make it look corrrect. And the Superbirds aero numbers were not as good as the Charger numbers either. And still till this day the Charger and Superbird has the lowest drag co efficent numbers among all makes. And since Mopar still has a military manfucaturing facility to this day (M1 Abrahams) the Daytona and Superbird were designed by Red Stone Arsenal rocket engineers from Alabama.

Love the color. Can't wait to see the final results.

I have a couple of those and the convertible version too. Using the converitble version to build the Jag from the original Vanishing Point movie to go with my Challenger.

Negative. The '68 Barracuda did not have the shaker or the same air cleaner. Only the '70 and '71 could have a shaker hood and air cleaner assembly. No Hemi after '71. There's two pics of a 68 notch back and fast back. Great cars though. I'd love to have a 65 though. I like the big window, but not a lot of room for big tires.

I use the same tubing for mine too. I have used old NASCAR cages in some cases too. I know I have a Chevelle I built, and I got lazy and did not want to build all the door bars, so I used NASCAR side cage pieces and built the rest myself. Worked out good in that case. Just depends on the body and interior design of the car as to what you can do with it cage wise. That file set has a round file that has some taper on the front end of it, but not the full length. I also find that file good for opening up and truing a tube after you cut it and it's no so round on the end anymore. They have lots of uses and if you get glue in it, just toss it and buy another set at just 6 bucks a set.

For your next cage, go to Harbor Freights website and get this diamond file set, Needle File Set, 10 Piece (harborfreight.com) The diamond files are 0nly 2 bucks more than the steel and it cuts the plastic faster. One of the files is flat on one side and curved on the other side. Use the curved side and cut your tubes long and make notched in there like I do to my roll cages in my real race cars. You can't but a round tube to a round tube. The fish mouth notch mounts to the round tube. And allows for a tight fit for welding, and in your case less glue and it makes it a tight fit when finished. It's a little extra work, but it makes the cage look like the real thing if you do it that way and like I said it makes it stronger and tighter fitting too.

Thanks. I did not think about those. I'll check one out. My real intake comes in two heights. Since we are using the plate, we used the shorter intake since the plate makes up for the loss. Should make for an interesting build.

I gotcha. No worries. I just thought I'd throw that out there since I put those pics in there with it.

Yeah, we've done a lot of research and testing on this animal so far. One patricular truck block is stronger than all the rest. There is a 426 stroker kit avaiable for them as well. The Eagle heads are the best box stock before porting and polishing. That intake in the pic is not fully machiend and tested yet. It will run a holley 1050 dominator on it with that tested nitrous plate. The bungs will the drilled and tapped for nitrous fogger nozles. Fogger is the first kit plate is the back up or secondary kit. We are looking for 1000 hp or more with weight in the 1600 to 1800 lbs max. The whole truck body weighs 240 lbs. We have some work to do. Not in any hurry to get it finished anyways. Hope I can find what I need to make the model mockup. Would be cool to have a model of what we built.

I have a kit that is on the way, and I need a source for a specific engine and an intake that will fit it. I'm building a model of what will be a real 1 to1 drag truck with a composite body. The model will use a tube chassis like the one we want to build for the 1 to 1. I guess I'm using the model as a mockup of the real thing. Right down to using it to test what paint job will look good for the real thing. What I need is a source for a 2010 or newer Hemi that comes in the trucks. So, nothing supercharged. And I need an intake that looks like the one in the pic. Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction. Resin pieces will work too, even 3d printed as long as I can get the part, I don't have a printer yet. THanks.

Thanks. The Charger is the bag guy's car from the '86 movie Gladiator. It stared Ken Wahl, Nancy Allen, Robert Culp, Rick Dees and Stan Shaw. I am working on the GMC now, but I may build Nancy Allen's '61 'vette too. The Gladiator (1986 film) - Wikipedia That Camaro in the pics has a Chevy engine paint color on it too. I try to use the same name brands on everything I paint. It reduces the chance of having things clash and causing a repaint. So, yes, same brand primer. If you use their gray primer, I have noticed they have different shades of it. Some darker than others. And htey still have the old red oxide primer too.

I use engine paints all the time. Duplicolor. They have several shades of black that I like to use. A low gloss one that has a nice stain look to it. It dries fast so it keeps the dirt and dust out of it. Not a great pic, but this car from the movie Gladiator that I built is all Duplicolor black engine paint. Just put a good coat of primer under it and it will be fine.

Nice so far. I have one of these in the stash to build, so I want to see how it unfolds too. I'm going to be building a movie car out of mine even though it only had a few brief scenes in the opening parts of the movie before it was destroyed.

Well, can't wait to see it.

I just wanted to show you these things. That's three styles of steering quickeners. These things are about the size of your fist and just have a pair of gears inside of them. They go inline from the teering shaft to the steering box. I just figured you might could use the pics if you are going for accuracy. It sounds and looks like an interesting build so far.

The round ones are factory for that car, but they have a black bezel that goes around the lights to fill in all of that open area around that light.

The bad thing about it, is that the injection scoop won't stick through the hood either. So, that's why I went carbed under the scoop. I think that's B Gas class.

Sorry for the bad pics, but it's all I have of this car. Yes, there is a firewall issue. I trimmed the hood tabs down a bit because they hit inside when you get everything mounted correctly. I forgot exactly what I did to it, but I had to do some trimming where the firewall meets and where the inner fenders meet at the frame. And if I recall correctly, I think it had more of an issue on the right side than on the left. But it does take a little work to make these kits look nice, but it can be done.