dwc43

Looking good. I noticed one thing, no one makes the new race harness belts. I guess we could make them ourselves if we wanted too though. Should not be that hard to do. The new belts have a latch link about in the middle of the writing on those belts. In the real world it keeps the shoulder belts from sliding out to the edges of the shoulder so that the impact does not break your sternum. I never broke my sternum in a crash before these were available, but I sure bruised it up one night in a crash. On all belts, the shoulder harness should be Y'ed in the back behind the seat. On this kind of belt, a lot of people miss it. Those to larger link pieces on the end of the shoulder belts should be on the lap belt. When you hit the release, that large belt release will fall and pull all the belts apart for a quick escape. They work the same way on the latch link belts too. Whoever designed it that way got it right.

It's not really a traction bar so to speak. As you launch a car the pinion climbs the ring gear, that's how you end up with a wheel stand on cars with too much rear traction, usually too much percentage weight to the rear. Anyways, when the axle rotates up the spring stops it at some point and if you could see it, the front segment of the spring looks like an S laid down on the side. All of a sudden that spring unwinds and jerks that axle back down. That's when it goes into wheel hop and the tires bounce up and down on the road and chirp and spin and lose traction. That bar is trying to prevent the axle wind up that turns into wheel hop. It's also going to try to pull the rear of the car down and that's not good cause you are actually unloading the rear tires by doing that. If you put 4 scales under a car and raise the rear end with, say leaf spring shackles, the scales will show more weight on the rear tires than the front. Opposite if you lower the rear. That's why they use forward facing ladder bars. They do two things at once. They try to raise the car up making weight shift to the rear at the same time using that leverage to push the tires into the track. Lower the front of the bar closer to the road for more traction and vice versa. 4 links work the same way, except you have two bars to adjust on each side. Lower bar is a big adjustment and the upper bar is a fine tuning adjustment. Upper bars have more mounting holes than the lower ones do too.

Ron Coon has just about everything you need to build it into a dirt track car. Even has the correct wheels and header pipes. Ron Coon Resins | Wheels & Tires - For Circle Track Builds

Actually, the reason for setting the engine back is to put more weight on the rear tires and to save that right front. Makes it handle better. All the classes I ran under had a rule that the number 1 spark plug had to be in line with the LF ball joint of the car. That's as far back as they would let us set the engine back. As for tires, Street stocks ran 255/60r15's Super Streets ran 275/60r15's and all the other cars except the ponies of course ran the dirt track tires, like Hoosier, American Racer, and such, usually no softer than a 55 I think it was on the RR if I recall correctly. Stocks and Streets ran a min. 4-inch ground clearance. This was through the late 70's, 80,s and 90,s here in Tn.

Looks good. And yes, those over sized tires are a joke. No one ever ran anything that looked like that.

Paint looks good. You need a MAD distributor with plug wires to set that little 4cyl off.

That should be a nice build. Can't wait to see it. Those little engines can make some big power. We used to run them back in the day in my brother's dirt track car. I modified the factory intake and fitted a 500 Holley 2bbl to it. I made custom headers for it. They made a timing chain kit so you could remove the balance shafts from the engine bock. Throw a cam in it and mill the head and you was good to go. We ran it in a Challenger with a 4spd behind it and 3.91 gears in the rear. Never took it out of second gear on a qtr. mile dirt track. Thing would turn 7500 to 8k easy.

Looks good so far. Love the red color. I agree, those wheels needed to go. Can't wait to see what it looks like in the end.

lol ...

B-Series: The B-series engine is Chrysler’s first official big-block engine. Released in 1958, they existed until 1978. Available in 350 cubic-inch and 361 cubic-inch variants at first, there were also 383 cubic-inch and 400 cubic-inch B-series engines. They shared most of their architecture with the RB-series, but with a shorter 3.375-inch stroke. Both the B and RB-series engines featured wedge-style combustion chambers. RB-Series: The RB-series engines came about a year after the B-series, and featured a longer 3.75-inch stroke for increased displacements of 413 cubic inches, 426 cubic inches and 440 cubic inches. The 426 Wedge was Chrysler’s main performance engine until the 426 Hemi came on scene. 426 Hemi: The 426 Hemi was actually the second generation of hemispherical-headed engines. It was released in 1964 and lasted until 1971. The iconic Mopar performance engine only existed in a 426 cubic-inch displacement in production vehicles and is probably the rarest of any on this list. By the way, 350's have two freeze plugs on the side of the block and 400's have three. So, just any small block wont do.

No dual carbs from the factory in 74 or 76. lol

Looking good. I think Ron Coon has your wheels and a lot more too. Check em out. Ron Coon Resins | Wheels & Tires - For Circle Track Builds

AMT 64 Belvedere kit has one too. And the old Diora truck kit had one. 1964 Plymouth Belvedere with Slant 6 Engine (1/25) (fs) (modelroundup.com)

Texas 3d on Ebay has the best one ever made. But it aint cheap. Slant 6 Hyper-Pak model engine resin 3D printed 1:24-1:8 scale | eBay

Welcome. Wish you luck.

Looking good, but you need to find some Slant 6 engines. ole Al could not afford the 318 or 340's. lol

Welcome anytime. I was looking for AIT. They sold the business to someone else. I think this is the 3rd time it's been sold. Dave that ran that site passed last month too. I also dug up two more sites you might want to check out. Welcome to moluminum - Sample Slogan (3dcartstores.com) Engines (3dcartstores.com) A&N Model Trucks – Model trucks, model vans, model pickup trucks. Scale 1/24. (an-modeltrucks.com)

Almost everything you need can be found at Sourkrauts. If it shows he does not have it, e mail him anyways. He may have it or it may be on order. Some of it on this page I linked you to. Trailer Accessories — Model Trucks — Sour Krauts Model Trucks

Great looking ride. Thanks for the antenna pics and info.

How's the antenna installed? Looks a tad long due to the big loop, but that might just be the image. I had an idea for making one for my car. They make those straight pins with different sized plastic heads on them. I thought if I could find the right size, I'd drop a small spring down the pin shaft and glue that in place. Then cut the pin off and put my wire into the spring. Then glue that big ball to the bodywork and loop my wire down like you have yours.

I have not bought any kits from the parts box, but I have bought parts from them. $20 dollar minimum order for me in the US buying from them. They have great parts, so, I'm betting their kits are good too.

The Parts Box has some resin kits. They have a Falcon, Bedford Van, Morris Van, New Yorker and some others too. And lots of cool parts. TPB Resin Kits and Bodies – The Parts Box

Got mine Saturday. He said there is a problem with the web site. Thanks.

No, thanks for the suggestion, that hood is the closest so far that came to fitting, but it's off a bit. Which is sad, cause it looks nice otherwise. And thanks, I need all the luck I can get. lol

Yes, that's one of the hoods that I have. Matter of fact that's the one I tried added flat plastic to the sides and front and sanding it down. I guess the edge is just not wide enough for the glue to get a good bite on it. Once it dries, and I start sanding it down to match, it just breaks in different places and comes off. I was wondering if I could take some kind of epoxy and run a bead down the side, let it dry, and just sand down the epoxy. Can't turn out any worse than what I have going on right now.