sjordan2

This topic comes up so often on so many forums that I can't believe there aren't aftermarket solutions to the issue. I know that there are some PE parts that say they have hinges, but there are no instructions on how to put them together and they're totally incomprehensible. That said, we're all stuck with tutorials on how to use brass wire and tubing to do the deal. Dollhouse furniture hinges are usually too big (I haven't found any that are even close to the simple external hinges I need for my large-scale 1/16 vintage cars). SURELY there's someone on this board who has influence with aftermarket suppliers and could cause working hinge assemblies to be offered in a variety of scales. I can't think of another modeling question that is repeated so often.

Here's some nice video from today's CNN site on one of the three surviving Bugatti Atlantics, originally owned by Rothschild. http://money.cnn.com/video/luxury/2010/09/08/lux_bugatti_atlantic.cnnmoney/?source=cnn_bin&hpt=Sbin

At 1/20, the finishes and detail on the engine blow me away. Beautiful all around.

The chrome's not very realistic. Should have used BMF.

This looks like one of the most awesome kits ever developed. But here's the elephant in the living room: The TDR 1/8 Jaguar D-Type body is $678 by itself. What's this kit going to cost?

Brizio – I was just looking at a picture posted by Bluemoose on another thread here, and he may be onto something with the red color on this car: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=33695&st=40 He says it's Tamiya Italian Red spray over Tamiya Blue.

How do you find the message board over there? I can only get ads for products they sell.

I will be happy to mail you the kit with return postage if you're interested in looking at it. The biggest problem with the kit is the diecast body, which needs a lot of work that can't easily be done with metal, such as cutting the hood panels for folding over, and opening up the side mesh on the hood. With a Franklin Mint Atalante as a donor car, this can be killer. Please PM me at sjordan47@comcast.net if you're interested.

Speaking of the Bugatti Atlantic, Peter, could you duplicate the body shell from a Bburago 1/24 diecast metal kit?

While it wouldn't be a donor, Revell made a 1:18 diecast of the P1800 coupe, which could serve as a starting point for 3-dimensional reference. Also, the wagon used a B20F engine which was a variant of an engine originally used on Volvo trucks – maybe our truck modelers here know of a kit that could donate the engine.

By the way, despite the mini-hijack about burning Ferraris, this is a wonderful build. Nice, clean and precise like all the other things you've showed us.

Looks like you're on the road. Love the interior color.

This is looking terrific. Orange makes sense since it's based on a 1:1 car. I see that the kit box shows dish-type hubcaps, which makes me wish someone would do a true "Prisoner" car.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=34963

As a 300 SL specialist, I commented on this build a long time ago. Very original, and I'll close my eyes and pretend this was made from a 1:1 fiberglass replica, so the sacrilege of messing up an original Gullwing won't seem as bad. Nice work.

Spectacular, inside and out, and very nice detail on the metal studs on the steering wheel.

If anyone's interested, the kit is currently on eBay for an amazingly low Buy It Now of $23.76. http://bit.ly/9FVHAm

And yeah, make sure you used rivets instead of adhesive for the rear splash pan heat shields, or your 458 might blow up Bob Downie From today's news. http://money.cnn.com/2010/09/02/autos/ferrari_recall/index.htm?hpt=T2 NEW YORK (CNNMoney.com) -- Ferrari is recalling its new 458 Italia model after several vehicles were reported to have burst into flames. A Ferrari spokesperson told CNNMoney.com has that the luxury supercar is being recalled in order to make modifications to the wheelhouse assembly. "In rare instances the heat shield could become deformed, bringing it too close to the exhaust system and igniting," a Ferrari spokesperson said.

Well..uh...as the Brits would say, "I'm gobsmacked." I don't know how this could possibly be done better – it's a true museum piece, as good as any 1:8 Pocher build I've seen, spectacular in every way. You have turned your nightmare into a dream car. You can't walk away from this kind of work because it was difficult. If you decide to build other 1:16 classics, such as the Rolls Phantom II or Phantom III, the Mercedes SS Kabriolet or the Jaguar SS 100, I'll be happy to send you CD files with truly massive reference material for each of them. I would be very excited to see what you do with any of them. Question: Did you use special materials for the upholstery and the top covering?

Another spectacular job from you.I thought you'd like to see this article from today's news at Yahoo! on new Dodge "tribute colors." http://autos.yahoo.com/articles/autos_content_landing_pages/1508/the-truth-about-car-colors/ It would be cool if you did the same color approach with a new Challenger.

The shadow under the car is too dark to see the oil leakage, but I'll say real anyway.

Absolutely outstanding. The weathering and rust are killer, and the barn environment is just right.

I don't think you get what I'm talking about. As I indicated above, this tip relates primarily to chrome sprue pieces such as the edges of wheels and body trim; knife work is for scraping and could remove too much chrome. The key is to be as soft as possible with just a little burnishing. An X-acto will work to a point, but is very harsh, and a fine needle file would be better. But this suggestion is for creating as little damage as possible.

I see a lot of builds here that could use a simple finishing process (unfortunately, I am not able to post pictures). However: On chrome bits, and on things like windshield and other window surrounds, take a thick, water-soaked toothpick to burnish off rough edges. These areas need to be smoothed and sanded. If you're working on chrome-plate parts, be very slow and gentle; you may need to touch up with a tiny bit of Sharpie or paint if you've buffed too much.

A Batwagen? Or a Volksbat?